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802a electric problem

cubdriver55

Member
40
0
8
Location
Edinburg, VA
I have an 802 that starts and runs fine. The voltage and htz are good and the receptacle works fine. I can not get any voltage to the lugs on the bottom. I tried an Ac circuit interrupter from another generator and it did not help. Any ideas? I also have another 802 that does produce elec but runs real rough and blows a lot of white smoke. Where is the best place to start on this one? Thanks Steve
 

BradBMI

Member
142
0
16
Location
NYC/NY
I would check the voltage on each side of the circuit interrupter. If you have volts on the gen side its probably a bad interrupter. If no volts off the gen side then you may have a bad winding (hope not)
 

cubdriver55

Member
40
0
8
Location
Edinburg, VA
Yes I tried battle short. I have the manuals but no electric scematic. I doubt if I could read it anyway. I have voltage to the transformer or what appears to be a transformer. ( The large square box that the load wires go into right before they go to the output lugs). I have voltage going in but not out. I don't know if it is bad or one of the relays that controls it.
 

ETN550

New member
457
9
0
Location
Knoxville, TN
Just to confirm you are checking the circuit interrupter relay which is the big one under the top lid not in the box behind the gages.

There is also a relay behind the gages that powers the big relay. check it too. Download the manual and see what it has to say. Chances are it will be a lot easier to fix the electrical issue then working on the other unit that does not run well. If nothing looks burnt or smells then it is probably not a big problem. The generator is a 12 lead unit (6 coils) and uses the T1 coil for 120 at the panel and for voltage regulation. So the regulator is working properly. With the top lid off you should be able to meter each of 6 gen windings to verify 120 vac across each one.
 
Last edited:

Ratch

Member
586
5
18
Location
Chester County, PA
I've never opened the cover on mine, but it sounds like ETN550 is describing a contactor (large relay), and you're mistaking that for a transformer. If it's a contactor and it's not energized, you would see voltage in but no voltage out. Maybe the contactor isn't pulling in. It could be the supply to energize it not working, or it's malfunctional.
 

cubdriver55

Member
40
0
8
Location
Edinburg, VA
Yes it is the circuit interrupter relay which is the big one under the top lid. I will try to find which relay behind the panel controls it. I have another unit that I can borrow parts from to see if it works. Where can I find an electrical diagram of the unit? Thanks steve
 

bohunk

New member
14
0
1
Location
Phx, AZ
Here is a link that might help with parts identification: www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-6115-641-24P.pdf
Both my 802A's have the schematic etched into a metal plate that is riveted inside one of the doors. If you like I can attempt to take a picture of it if you think that will help. Also, Technology Research Corp designed and manufactured ALL the control components for both Libby & Fremont on the 802A contract. Lisa Nash is their military specialist and her extension is 20369 at Tech Support 800-780-4324... perhaps she can assist you with the schematic or get you to someone who can provide it.
 

CRV

New member
9
0
0
Location
FOREST HILL,MARYLAND
Just a thought on the other set that runs rough and blows white smoke this is usually caused by not enough fuel either bad or clogged injector or injectors or something else in fuel delivery system filters or injector pump. I have had this problem with diesel engines that have not run for a while , make sure fuel is clean and add a pint of automatic tranmission fluid this some times clears up a problem with them.the atf adds lube which is missing in the new lower sulpher diesels ,i use to add this to my over the road trucks and to me it seemed to make them run smoother.i would not add to new trucks with there newe emmission systems.
 
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