Finally won a few, all three are runners (150-200 hours). One is missing the exhaust flap, I saw on ebay they sell a farm tractor style cap. Anyone try this sort of setup? I was considering just buying some piping and the individual caps (cheaper), but I cant find the 802A exhaust pipe diameter in the manual (and I am not home to measure), anyone know? Ultimately one will go in a block room outside to make the already quiet generator quieter.
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802A Exhaust questions
- Thread starter SandBar
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dependable
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The thread is 1.25" NPT(national pipe thread). Here is a pict of mine from a previous post. Some guys did a nicer looking job with a flapper, but this keeps water out.
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lxawolf
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Not sure how long you could go, but one thing to think about is the extra weight. It could crack the factory mount and deform the flange and exhaust gasket. If you would need to fabricate an external bracket of some type.
Humpy
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Based on experience if the exhaust is left open things tend go in them and build nests. A flapper IMHO is the safest and most effective way to go as I have one on a farm tractor.
I have one as is pictured on line as the quality of it is very nice, better than is on my tractor. As indicated above they are 1 1/4". It is a good idea to spray the threads on the coupler, generator and extension pipe with zinc paint so the threads on the parts won't sieze.
There is another possibility in the short run and that is put on a 4-6" extension and put a can over the top when it won't be used long term. A small can like tomato paste comes in works nicely.
I don't trust the long pipes with a "hoodie" bend in them. On the rare occasion I have to leave my backhoe outside over night I put a can over the top of the stack. A qt V8 can is what it needs as that pipe is 3+" in diameter.
Also you could get a 1 1/4" pipe cap, screw it on the threads and remove it for starting and this will prevent moisture from atmosphere from entering down in the engine
If you want to make a long exhaust run you can get 1 1/4" sections of exhaust pipe that comes in ten foot sticks and is quite light. I was considering putting my 802 indoors (40X60 shop) and piping the exhaust outdoors and let the heat from the engine heat the building. Find a muffler shop with a pipe bender that custom fabricates dual exhaust systems and you can get the 10ft sections from them.
As soon as I can I know a tarp shop in Ohio that does very nice work with vinyl covered fiberglass that will last for years out in the weather. I am going to get them to make me a cover to slide down and completely protect the exterior cabinet of my 802a.
I have one as is pictured on line as the quality of it is very nice, better than is on my tractor. As indicated above they are 1 1/4". It is a good idea to spray the threads on the coupler, generator and extension pipe with zinc paint so the threads on the parts won't sieze.
There is another possibility in the short run and that is put on a 4-6" extension and put a can over the top when it won't be used long term. A small can like tomato paste comes in works nicely.
I don't trust the long pipes with a "hoodie" bend in them. On the rare occasion I have to leave my backhoe outside over night I put a can over the top of the stack. A qt V8 can is what it needs as that pipe is 3+" in diameter.
Also you could get a 1 1/4" pipe cap, screw it on the threads and remove it for starting and this will prevent moisture from atmosphere from entering down in the engine
If you want to make a long exhaust run you can get 1 1/4" sections of exhaust pipe that comes in ten foot sticks and is quite light. I was considering putting my 802 indoors (40X60 shop) and piping the exhaust outdoors and let the heat from the engine heat the building. Find a muffler shop with a pipe bender that custom fabricates dual exhaust systems and you can get the 10ft sections from them.
As soon as I can I know a tarp shop in Ohio that does very nice work with vinyl covered fiberglass that will last for years out in the weather. I am going to get them to make me a cover to slide down and completely protect the exterior cabinet of my 802a.
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Ratch
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I don't think backpressure would be much of an issue. The 4-cyl engines use the same 1.25" pipe.
Someone already said the simple solution; get a 1-1/4 joint and 6" pipe, and a $10 flapper from tractor supply, and forget about it.
Someone already said the simple solution; get a 1-1/4 joint and 6" pipe, and a $10 flapper from tractor supply, and forget about it.
steelypip
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After doing a little quick math I decided that 1" ID was plenty big enough for a 16 HP diesel engine, my solution was to stick a small tractor muffler for something like a 20HP Kubota in the 1-1/4" elbow with a stack flapper on top when running my MEP-002A. The muffler slides out and lays down on top of the set when I tarp it over in between runs. The muffler and flap were off the shelf at Tractor Supply.
The muffler does quiet things a little (though not much), gets the exhaust up above the level of my head, and acts as a rain shield for the exhaust pipe when the set is in the running configuration but shut down. I generally only run it as needed to cool down the fridge/freezers and manage climate control or big electrical loads, so it can get rained on for hours in between run cycles during an extended outage.
The muffler does quiet things a little (though not much), gets the exhaust up above the level of my head, and acts as a rain shield for the exhaust pipe when the set is in the running configuration but shut down. I generally only run it as needed to cool down the fridge/freezers and manage climate control or big electrical loads, so it can get rained on for hours in between run cycles during an extended outage.
BobbyT
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Steelypip, could you post a pic and a part number of the muffler? I'm interested in that setup.
steelypip
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I started to walk out to get your picture tonight and realized it's a bit harsher than I'd thought: dark, 5 F, not calm, and about a foot of snow around the generator. I declared a strategic advance to the rear and will reengage when the environment is more favorable.
BobbyT
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Roger that, no hurry. My 002 is still torn down for rebuilding/painting so it will be a few weeks before I get to building an add on exhaust.
Humpy
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Apparently there is no quieting down a 002/003. I saw a 003 with a very nice manifold set up and exhaust directed into a very large muffler for a 18 wheeler. I called the guy and he said after all that work it only quieted it down a few DBs. He said when he was in the military they dug big holes or sandbagged around them so the noise would be directed straight up. Read somewhere where a guy stacked cement blocks around his and that helped with noise.
On my MEP017 I installed a car muffler for a 4 cylinder car on the end of the military muffler outlet and I estimate it only dropped 2 dbs. Placing hand over outlet I can tell the pressure coming out is about 1/6th of what came out the issue muffler and the whole thing is just loud loud loud still.
Found out a plastic 1 1/4" cap will fit over the threads of a 1 1/4" pipe extension and would be a nice snug fit to keep humidity from getting into exhaust. I got this idea from a Onan collector (he had 15 of them last I saw his collection) and even though they are in his basement nice, dry and warm he keeps rags packed in muffler outlets to keep humidity from coming in the "backdoor".
I had decided I would get screw on caps had I found a 002/003 to protect it but a 802 came up first. The plastic cap will sit right on the outlet but not let the cover close so you know it is in place.
It is overkill but I have a steel Scott air pack bottle that was cut in half and it will sit over the top of the flapper cap assembly and should stop anything from getting inside exhaust system. Thought I would use it should they announce a new incoming ice storm (like they did last year) and I would pull the trailer outside and have it ready to go with a two 60 watt light bulbs inside (plugged to extension cord coming into house) cabinet to keep the engine/fuel tank warm prior to the power failure. This based on the theory a warm diesel is a happy diesel and much easier to wake up.
On my MEP017 I installed a car muffler for a 4 cylinder car on the end of the military muffler outlet and I estimate it only dropped 2 dbs. Placing hand over outlet I can tell the pressure coming out is about 1/6th of what came out the issue muffler and the whole thing is just loud loud loud still.
Found out a plastic 1 1/4" cap will fit over the threads of a 1 1/4" pipe extension and would be a nice snug fit to keep humidity from getting into exhaust. I got this idea from a Onan collector (he had 15 of them last I saw his collection) and even though they are in his basement nice, dry and warm he keeps rags packed in muffler outlets to keep humidity from coming in the "backdoor".
I had decided I would get screw on caps had I found a 002/003 to protect it but a 802 came up first. The plastic cap will sit right on the outlet but not let the cover close so you know it is in place.
It is overkill but I have a steel Scott air pack bottle that was cut in half and it will sit over the top of the flapper cap assembly and should stop anything from getting inside exhaust system. Thought I would use it should they announce a new incoming ice storm (like they did last year) and I would pull the trailer outside and have it ready to go with a two 60 watt light bulbs inside (plugged to extension cord coming into house) cabinet to keep the engine/fuel tank warm prior to the power failure. This based on the theory a warm diesel is a happy diesel and much easier to wake up.
Overdrive
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802A Exhaust flap/cover repro & alternatives question
In the spirit of Steel Soldiers and search before you ask, I am reviving an older thread to see if anyone ever found a replacement exhaust flap, made one, or developed an alternative.
Based on the replies in this thread I know the exhaust outlet is just an 1-1/4 NPT pipe thread and you could get an extension, angles, tractor supply flapper and be done. However, I was wondering if anyone has fabricated their own similar to stock. The stock unit is made from VERY thin aluminum and based on pictures, looks doable to fab up a replacement. My 802A has the base piece that bolts to the gen and still has the two flanges that fold over the flapper part which is why I was contemplating making a new one.
Thanks for any assistance.
OD
In the spirit of Steel Soldiers and search before you ask, I am reviving an older thread to see if anyone ever found a replacement exhaust flap, made one, or developed an alternative.
Based on the replies in this thread I know the exhaust outlet is just an 1-1/4 NPT pipe thread and you could get an extension, angles, tractor supply flapper and be done. However, I was wondering if anyone has fabricated their own similar to stock. The stock unit is made from VERY thin aluminum and based on pictures, looks doable to fab up a replacement. My 802A has the base piece that bolts to the gen and still has the two flanges that fold over the flapper part which is why I was contemplating making a new one.
Thanks for any assistance.
OD
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I am working on a design that will remove the flap and raise am aluminum top that covers the exhaust and radiator outlet. I am not sure if it will be one or two pieces yet. I will use a 24v actuator to raise it when you prime. I made a two plate system for drash units to keep crap out of the air intakes and exhaust since pine straw and bees get inside. I open them when priming the generator via actuators. I added a normally open switch that allows the unit to crank once the flaps open. I also build hoods that cover the 803 and 802 so that all exhaust air is contained under the hood and it has a screened outlet with sound insulation. I did a thread on it. I modified it so I no longer have to pipe the exhaust into the hood, I just made the hood longer to cover the exhaust outlet. I don't like getting rain, leaves and snow in the radiator air outlet either.
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dependable
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Hard head, going the extra mile and doing a good job as usual. Impressed by your very thorough enclosure build/improvement thread a while back.
Overdrive, one problem with the stock flap is water can wick under flap and into muffler output even with flap intact, this is especially true if snow or ice sits on top of generator. That is why a raised pipe, either turned down or with flapper, is a better solution. If you look at the picture I put in this thread, you'll notice the original flap in still there. But my 802 came from a large batch in MD that sat around with the DMRO or GL lot with snow on them for months, and a lot of the guys on this forum that got them from same batch had water in mufflers, and some had water in the motor itself. I was fortunate enoght to get one with little water in it, but learned from others' experiences here.
Flappers are a good solution, but have never owned one that did not start rattling at some point or another (tractors, chipper etc.), hence my preference for a turn down.
Overdrive, one problem with the stock flap is water can wick under flap and into muffler output even with flap intact, this is especially true if snow or ice sits on top of generator. That is why a raised pipe, either turned down or with flapper, is a better solution. If you look at the picture I put in this thread, you'll notice the original flap in still there. But my 802 came from a large batch in MD that sat around with the DMRO or GL lot with snow on them for months, and a lot of the guys on this forum that got them from same batch had water in mufflers, and some had water in the motor itself. I was fortunate enoght to get one with little water in it, but learned from others' experiences here.
Flappers are a good solution, but have never owned one that did not start rattling at some point or another (tractors, chipper etc.), hence my preference for a turn down.
Overdrive
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Thanks guys, good info... For a quick and dirty fix I ordered a 2" extension, female fitting, and a 1-1/4 tractor flapper to give enough clearance above the stock outlet for the flapper to work. I would still like to have the stock flapper for mobile operations since I have a trailer mounted 802A so if I cannot locate one may try to bend some thin sheet metal and reproduce the factory one.
dependable, the quick fix would still have the wicking problem. With the pieces I already ordered I could just add a length of pipe as previously posted off to the side with maybe a 45 degree fitting to angle exhaust down.
I will report back when I get the parts on Saturday on the quick fix setup.
Thank you
OD
dependable, the quick fix would still have the wicking problem. With the pieces I already ordered I could just add a length of pipe as previously posted off to the side with maybe a 45 degree fitting to angle exhaust down.
I will report back when I get the parts on Saturday on the quick fix setup.
Thank you
OD