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802a or 803a fuel shut off solenoid

Guyfang

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All that stuff came from ONAN.

5945-01-378-7172 is the solenoid, (comes without plug) Part number: 88-20090


There was an NSN for the entire linkage assembly, including mounting bracket, (part number 186-6179). But the NSN was never in the books and was more or less a "secret". The CECOM had the number. I had it from them. There was also a NSN for just the linkage. I will look. But at the end of the day, ONAN provided all those parts. I do have NSN's for each individual part, but I don't think it will help.

Do you have the mounting bracket?
 

Jetred

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I believe that part is made by Woodward. I've seen Woodward solenoid from bobcats to aircraft. I'll look at my 803A when I get home and see if there is a Woodward part number on the sticker.
 

Guyfang

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Jetred, your right. I looked at an extremely out of date manual, and found the CAGE code 78388, Woodward, for the solenoid. In the later manuals its Onan's cage code. SA-3865 should be the Woodward part number for the solenoid, but look anyway. All I have is books, you have the item in hand.

We still need to find the canon plug end.
Plug:Cage Code:27264 Part number:03-09-2032 CONNECTOR BODY,PLUG. All these companies can supply the plug connector, but MOLEX made them, from start to finish of the TQG family's life.

00779TYCO ELECTRONICS CORPORATION 2800 FULLING MILL RD BLDG-38MIDDLETOWNPA17057-3142
05083BACHARACH INC. 621 HUNT VALLEY CIRNEW KENSINGTONPA15068-7074
27264MOLEX INCORPORATEDDBA MOLEX AUTOMOTIVE DIV MOLEXCONNECTOR CORPORATIONUSE CAGE CODE 1UX99 FOR CATALOGING.2222 WELLINGTON CTLISLEIL60532-1682
32274CIPHER DATA PRODUCTS INCOEM MARKETING DIV 10101 OLD GROVE RDSAN DIEGOCA92131-1650
51089FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR CORPPCB-TEST TESTLINE DIVSUB OF SCHLUMBERGER LTD TITUSVILLEFL32780
53908COMPUTER AUTOMATION INC
53938EVANS & SUTHERLAND COMPUTERCORPORATION 770 KOMAS DRSALT LAKE CITY

The pins are suposed to be crimped with a MOLEX, (what else) crimping tool. I used another tool and it worked out OK.
 

doghead

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Try Delk's. Just google it.
 

jamawieb

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Thanks guys! I been trying Delks but William keeps putting me off. I've called a couple of times and he tells me he'll have to look and call me back. Of course he never calls me back. It's real disappointing because I use to buy all my parts from him but he did this to me about a month ago so I found the parts somewhere else.
 

csheath

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Somebody should have a ton of junkers out there. They were selling parts machines in two stacks out of Albany Ga a couple of months back.
 

jamawieb

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I have an update to why the fuel cut off solenoid is missing. I pulled one off another unit to just test everything and it shuts the unit off before it can start. When starting, it will retract (as normal), then as soon as the starter disengages it extracts and shuts the unit down. Now, I can hold the solenoid back as I'm starting, when the starter disengages it tries to extract but if I hold it back for approximately 3 seconds after the starter disengages it will hold itself back as it should. From the TM it looks like the fuel cutoff solenoid uses 2 hot wires, 1 to retract the solenoid and the other to hold it in place. I traced down all the wires and made sure they were tight but still having the issue. Anyone else encountered this problem?
 

Guyfang

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This sounds like you need to look at the relays in the control panel. Also, check your Mag pick up. If its not adjusted right, or damaged, the set goes straight to shut down.

Are you getting idiot lights?
 

jamawieb

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This sounds like you need to look at the relays in the control panel. Also, check your Mag pick up. If its not adjusted right, or damaged, the set goes straight to shut down.

Are you getting idiot lights?
I've put in new relay's thinking the same thing. I was thinking about the mag pick up but wanted some advice before moving forward. No fault lights.
 

Guyfang

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Mag pick up is easy, so you can knock that out fast. Its in the books, or I can find a copy of a simple procedure I have posted here a few times if you want it.
 

csheath

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I have an update to why the fuel cut off solenoid is missing. I pulled one off another unit to just test everything and it shuts the unit off before it can start. When starting, it will retract (as normal), then as soon as the starter disengages it extracts and shuts the unit down. Now, I can hold the solenoid back as I'm starting, when the starter disengages it tries to extract but if I hold it back for approximately 3 seconds after the starter disengages it will hold itself back as it should. From the TM it looks like the fuel cutoff solenoid uses 2 hot wires, 1 to retract the solenoid and the other to hold it in place. I traced down all the wires and made sure they were tight but still having the issue. Anyone else encountered this problem?
Are you holding it in start position until it registers oil pressure? The engine won't remain running until it has oil pressure.
 

jamawieb

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Are you holding it in start position until it registers oil pressure? The engine won't remain running until it has oil pressure.
Oh yeah, this is not my first rodeo. LOL! No matter how long you hold it, the fuel solenoid will retract normally and will try to start but soon as the starter disengages the fuel cutoff will go back to the off position. It's weird, I'm going to perform the magnetic pickup adjustment tomorrow and run through the test procedure for the fuel cut off solenoid.
 

Guyfang

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Don't just adjust, pull it out and check the end. It might just have a bit of metal filings on it is all. Or, if this is a new set to you, the end might be gone.
 

jamawieb

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Tested the mag pick up and it was perfect. Then I used the TM to test the fuel solenoid and it's not holding correctly. But the solenoid worked correctly in another unit when I first got it, which was about a year ago. I've got to replace the motor so I've been pulling parts on it so I can not test anything else with that unit. Using the TM I tested all the way back to the S1 (master switch). When starting S1 sends voltage through number 3 lead on the back of S1 to hold the fuel solenoid back. Lead 3 also does a lot more but I tested voltage when starting and lead 3 goes down to 20 volts. Can anyone got out and test the number 3 connector on the master switch while cranking to let me know their voltage rating.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,
Throw both your batteries on a charger. Voltage below 24 volts can make a bunch of stuff not act right.
 

jamawieb

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They are new optima with 12.46 volts per battery. I've had that happen before where the batteries would be low and the fuel solenoid would retract and not stay but it would pulsate weird and barely crank. For some reason, I can hold the solenoid back while cranking and after it starts, it will hold itself back and work correctly. Mine will pull back correctly but will not hold in place. Unless I hold it back and it starts, then it will stay. It's weird.
 
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Daybreak

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Howdy,

12.46 volts that's not good.
My yellowtops and redtops hover around 13.26
 

Guyfang

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Tested the mag pick up and it was perfect. Then I used the TM to test the fuel solenoid and it's not holding correctly. But the solenoid worked correctly in another unit when I first got it, which was about a year ago. I've got to replace the motor so I've been pulling parts on it so I can not test anything else with that unit. Using the TM I tested all the way back to the S1 (master switch). When starting S1 sends voltage through number 3 lead on the back of S1 to hold the fuel solenoid back. Lead 3 also does a lot more but I tested voltage when starting and lead 3 goes down to 20 volts. Can anyone got out and test the number 3 connector on the master switch while cranking to let me know their voltage rating.
Test your input voltage to S1, before and during the startup. 20 volts is low. See if you are losing the voltage before the switch. Or in the switch. What kind of S1 is it?

On J14, the plug to the solenoid, Pin one, wire number 119B is to hold the solenoid. Pin2, wire number 183A is the pull. And pin 3 is ground.
 
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