803 Secondary fuel filter cartridge/element/canister won't seal

[Billy2642]

I have an 803 that I just picked up. Replacing all the filters and I for the life of me cannot get the secondary fuel filter canister/element/filter to seal and not leak. It just pours fuel from the around the head of the bolt it looks like. When I took it apart, of course the spring went flying and who knows what else. Found the spring. I ensured the metal canister oring stayed in place. Then I see there is a small oring that seals the head of the bolt to the bottom of the canister and another oring just inside the canister where the base of the bolt comes thru. I then put the spring on top of that and then the new element and bolted it all tightly to the housing. I looked in the 3 TMs (-10, -24, -24&P)to find a diagram to ensure I'm putting it back together correctly but couldn't find one. What the heck am I doing wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[jamawieb]

The canisters are sometimes put on to tight which causes warping. You'll have to turn the canister until you find the sweet spot where it's sitting correctly in the base. Also make sure the canister lip is not damaged. The oring at the head of the bolt should keep it from seeping around. If it's truly coming from the bolt head, try a different o-ring.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Theres a O ring under there i believe. Use white grease or even normal grease to keep the O rings where they should be.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Why not just replace it with a new Wix (with bottom drain spout) and be done? You just need to drain into a coffee can or something as needed, instead of having the line go out of the case.

 

[Guyfang]

Had you looked at the proper manual, you would have found an exploded view of the filter. Figure 4, of the TM 9-2815-253-24P.

 

[Billy2642]

Finally got it sealed. I filed the edges of the metal canister slightly and that seemed to work. I also realized that when everything went flying, I didn't realize there is a washer that goes on top of the spring. Once I found the diagram that showed that and put it back together again, she stopped leaking. Only problem now is the machine won't start. I have fuel coming out of the injector return line and circulating back to the tank but it won't fire off.

 

[jamawieb]

Sometimes if they have been sitting for a while, it may take a while for it to start. It has to bleed the air out of the hard lines. Crank for 45 seconds, then wait 2 minutes for the starter to cool and try again. If it doesn't start with 5-6 tries of that, then the injector pumps are stuck.

 

[Billy2642]

I had 12 machines and out of the 12, 3 of them I think suffered from stuck injector pumps. I tried what jamaweid said to do with no success. Killed a few sets of batteries in the process lol. I ended up getting a spray bottle with 2 cycle mixed gas and dead cranked it while I sprayed the gas thru the air intake. It would run the engine at a slow rpm as long as I kept spraying. Once it was at that low rpm while I was spraying, I would switch the dead crank to normal. Once I did that, I would work the fuel solenoid and eventually the pumps would start pumping and I could stop spraying. Let it run for a couple seconds and then would let go of the fuel solenoid and it of course would die because it closed the fuel flow. I'd then go thru the normal startup sequence and they'd fire off and run. As expected they would run rough initially but I let them run for at least 30 minutes and they all cleared up. Let them cool down for half the day (27 degrees F here today), and went back out and they all started perfect. I had learned to use 2 stroke gas as a starting agent from my grandfather as a kid. It provides lubrication and isn't nearly as harsh or damaging as ether.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

Before you get to excited cranking.... check to make sure your unit has the quad winding fuse mod. Excessive cranking can do bad stuff.

Go through the unit to make sure it is ready to start too.