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803a fuel level sender

116
8
18
Location
Miami, FL
Guys need some help with this one I purchased a fuel level sender from KUS directly I installed it put the battery back on set the generator up when I finally ran power through it it shot the needle to full but there is no fuel in the tank immediately suspected that the new part that I purchased was bad I ordered another one same situation
I put it on the tester it works as supposed to in spec
I made sure pos and negative are correct
But still the same
I disconnected fuel level float completely and the needle goes back down to empty

I’m about to dive into the TM but I wanted to ask anybody have any ideas that can save me some time


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Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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MA
I would wire it up while holding it in your hand, and have someone look at the gauge up front while you articulating the float... see if there is any change. Have you confirmed the wire hookup is right against the diagram?
 
116
8
18
Location
Miami, FL
I would wire it up while holding it in your hand, and have someone look at the gauge up front while you articulating the float... see if there is any change. Have you confirmed the wire hookup is right against the diagram?
I would wire it up while holding it in your hand, and have someone look at the gauge up front while you articulating the float... see if there is any change. Have you confirmed the wire hookup is right against the diagram?
i have done this ,, i have just learned that new sender has to be 0 to 33 oms not the standard
 
116
8
18
Location
Miami, FL
So it sounds like you are using a different gage than the standard for an 803?
Standard 802 / 803 gages need a 240-33 ohm sender.
i got it from green mountain it worked with old sender .
how can i figure this out? i purchased newer type sender that was recommended by you guys
 

Dieselmeister

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
195
273
63
Location
Flagstaff, Az
Hook an ohm meter to your new sender, and verify what you really have, 240-33 or 0-33. If you have access to resistors, hook a resistor with the approximate value across the wires, and see what the gage shows. Any chance you have a short/ground somewhere in the wiring?
 
116
8
18
Location
Miami, FL
Hook an ohm meter to your new sender, and verify what you really have, 240-33 or 0-33. If you have access to resistors, hook a resistor with the approximate value across the wires, and see what the gage shows. Any chance you have a short/ground somewhere in the wiring?
sender works correctly , i removed the sender and fuel gua went to 0 i tested with the old sender and it worked
 

kayak1

Active member
97
161
33
Location
Maine
You might have the wrong part. The tank has two level sensors. One for the % full and one with two floats, this controls the aux fuel pump to stop it from putting more fuel in when it's full and to turn off when it's about out.

Please take a look a the parts diagram.
 

zarathustra

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
235
59
28
Location
glasgow,ky
y'know, the signal and return terminals on a "new" (Beede?) fuel gauge are not necessarily in the same physical position as the original. So, if you are carefully removing the wires from the original gauge, and re-installing them on the "new" gauge in the same physical position as original, then the gauge is now mis wired.
Easiest thing to do is to refer to wiring diagram and put the correct number wire on the terminal as labeled on the gauge.

the gauge has the S and I terminals clearly marked, so connecting the wires correctly is pretty easy.
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
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Yeah gauges are one good way to get a better understanding of how to chew through the wiring diagram to double check connections.
 
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