803a not warming up

[Light in the Dark]

Airtex G17 is the OEM... think its discontinued

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have not used this particular filter, but I was told this might be a good cross to the Airtex

BF46008 - Baldwin - In-Line Fuel Filters | Baldwin

OBSOLETE. Availability Limited to Dealer Stock.

ph.baldwinfilters.com

 

[Ray70]

I bought the G-17 not too long ago, so you may still be able to find it. ( think I got it from Rock Auto ) but be advised it is a strainer, not a filter so you should be able to remove it and just backflush with carb or brake cleaner.

 

[NATCAD]

Pushed a 'pencil' of ice out of the line before pump and strainer... generator running well again. Not sure where the water is coming from. No source on the g-17 yet, looking for the above PN from LITD, will let you know how it works out.

 

[Ray70]

I'm telling you... just backflush your old G-17. There's nothing in it besides a screen.... it just keeps large solids out of the pump.

 

[nextalcupfan]

An alternate idea to your inline electric coolant heater is a block heater under the crankcase.
I installed a 250W silicone pad heater with a built in 200F thermostat and have been impressed with the results.

What surprised me was it keeps most of the block warm instead of just the oil.
I have a video where I point an IR thermometer and even in -10F temps the block at the freeze plugs was around 20F.
This has allowed me to start the engine at -10F (or perhaps colder) with ZERO preheat.
Also because the oil is warmed you get instant oil pressure, so you dont even have to hold the key for much longer than in the summer.

Here is my lowest recorded cold start where I show the temps of various places on the block.

If you want I can link one of my "load bank" testing videos because that has the entire warm-up process, however those are usually done at decent outside temps (like 60F) so im not sure how helpful they would be since you said it runs fine when its warmer out.

According to my weather forecast it's supposed to be around 10F (-12C) with 15-20MPH winds from the North this upcoming Tuesday morning. If you want I can record and post a full warmup video so you can compare your unit with mine.

 

[NATCAD]

Hi Ray- the g-17 was split and sucking air.
Ray just as an aside the unit has no problem starting either with the arctic/espar having been run or not. It starts very well. The problem is making temp and holding temp and eventually dying due to fuel issue which I am still getting to bottom of.

The water made it past it to the 90 degree fuel fitting elbow from fuel tank before the fuel pump.

Cannot figure out source for water. Tank lid gasket very tight. No indication of water in bulk tank (clear bowl on bulk tank) and dipped tank for water indication.

Have ordered new strainers.

NextAL - I need to get everything tightened up and get some cold weather to do a comparison. I'm familiar with the silicone matts, they sure do a great job. I may look at them next. Once I have strainer back in I will be in position to compare.

Another hypothesis is given rad proximity to tank, I could have had water in running tank for a long time.
This whole cold season if it was -10 F or below, my protocol was always to run the arctic heater/espar and bring set to 180F before starting.
With the rad vent cover nearly blocked at top while running spar/artic heater this would have raised fuel tank above ambient by quite a bit and prevented fuel from gelling.

 

[Ray70]

Ah, ok sorry about that. I missed the damaged G17 and thought you were replacing it because you thought it was clogged/dirty. Now I see the light!

 

[nextalcupfan]

Hi Ray- the g-17 was split and sucking air.
Ray just as an aside the unit has no problem starting either with the arctic/espar having been run or not. It starts very well. The problem is making temp and holding temp and eventually dying due to fuel issue which I am still getting to bottom of.

The water made it past it to the 90 degree fuel fitting elbow from fuel tank before the fuel pump.

Cannot figure out source for water. Tank lid gasket very tight. No indication of water in bulk tank (clear bowl on bulk tank) and dipped tank for water indication.

Have ordered new strainers.

NextAL - I need to get everything tightened up and get some cold weather to do a comparison. I'm familiar with the silicone matts, they sure do a great job. I may look at them next. Once I have strainer back in I will be in position to compare.

Another hypothesis is given rad proximity to tank, I could have had water in running tank for a long time.
This whole cold season if it was -10 F or below, my protocol was always to run the arctic heater/espar and bring set to 180F before starting.
With the rad vent cover nearly blocked at top while running spar/artic heater this would have raised fuel tank above ambient by quite a bit and prevented fuel from gelling.

Any specific methodology you want me to follow?
Right now I'm just planning on starting it up and pointing a camera at the coolant temp gauge until it stabilizes.

Is there a specific load you want me to put the unit under after it warms up? (to see how much the temp increases with a load)
I can do anything from 3000-15000 watts easily.

According to the forecast its supposed to be 6F between 5-7AM tomorrow and that's the coldest its going to be for quite some time (maybe until next Winter) so it's now or never.

 

[NATCAD]

I would start with lower loads. Then work up, with assumption that less loading with have a cooler running generator.
I.e. 25% , 50% and 100% and the respective coolant temperatures compared to ambient.
Curious to see what temp change you see by blocking top of rad fan with plywood.

At this point my problem continues to be fuel and I need to keep working through the system, and also determine where the water is coming from.

Ray - YES we could see the light right through the g17...

 

[nextalcupfan]

Well I had just about everything set up this morning to run the generator when my internet decided to go out.
I spent 6 hours getting it working again.
After that I was pretty well spent mentally.

If it's cold enough tomorrow maybe I'll give it another shot but I don't think it will be.

Sorry about that.

 

[nextalcupfan]

This morning was 4F so I decided to do the test.
When the test ended it was around 7F.
Windchill was around 0 to -5F.
3 Loads were added, each one is around 4100watts.
Before I forget I run an oil/crankcase heater when it's this cold, now to keep it as fair as possible I unplugged it 2 hours before starting. But its possible the block was still retaining a small amount of heat. (likely only a few degrees above ambient by that point)

No ports were blocked, in fact last year I removed the storage box from the right door to increase airflow for summer operation. (The box that usually holds the AUX fuel line)
Damping foam is in place and I don't have any mesh screens over any intake or exhaust.

In hindsight I REALLY should have rigged up something to hold my phone instead of having to hold it up for 35min straight in 0F windchill....

 

[NATCAD]

I have that same issue opening the instrument cover at those temps, there are worse noises (like rabbits being eaten in the woods) but that one is up there.

So 24 minutes to get to 180F by gauge reading? Machine sounds good!

 

[NATCAD]

I had one opportunity at 1 degree F to run, started and ran nicely without issue, warmed up to 175F or so. Wind was about 40mph and I kept rad exhaust 90% covered and did not run the arctic diesel coolant heater.
I also changed the oil and picked up about 5psi oil pressure cold and 3psi hot.
I think the problem was fuel related, and fingers crossed this is now licked.
I did pick up a 9psi rad cap to try for next winter if problems persist. I might still add a 750 watt 120v electric coolant hose heater. Options are always good.