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803a running @ 130 degrees F after 1 hour+ with no load?

DieselAddict

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These engines don't have the issues with caviation that the PowerStroke engines do so the diesel specific coolants are not required.

That said, I prefer a good quality sillicate free antifreeze to save wear and tear on the waterpump.
 

Farmitall

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Update: Finally got some decent weather to work on the 803a. I drained the coolant down a bit and removed the thermostat housing, surprise!!! there was no thermostat in there, this accounts for the hoses being equally warm(not hot) as the coolant was free flowing in the system and the generator running at minimum temperature( wouldn't get above 130F with no load after 1 hour plus run time).
Went to the auto parts store with the thermostat housing in hand and using the Murray 15358 number given earlier in this thread and gasket #2138 got the parts.

The MURRAY Thermostat number 15358 has been changed by the manufacturer and it is now MU55358, the gasket is the same number 2138.

Thermostat fit perfectly in the recess with no detectable lateral movement even though it says its .? millimeters narrower than the original number 15358. Filled the coolant and started the unit. Comes up to temperature in just under ten minutes and holds perfectly at 180F. Bottom hose is cold, upper hose is warm/hot.

Used a light coating of "Indian Head" gasket shellac on both sides of the gasket and cleaned and anti seized the bolts and threads. No leaks!!:clinto:
 

Bmxenbrett

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I know a guy who use to work in the testing lab for prestonw. I talked to him about what antifreze to use for these generators he sugested a ford motocraft. Bot the usualy green stuff. I have refrenced its specific part number before on here.
Seeing as the red hose springs were disolved i wouldnt use the stuff they used before.
 

Farmitall

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I know a guy who use to work in the testing lab for prestonw. I talked to him about what antifreze to use for these generators he sugested a ford motocraft. Bot the usualy green stuff. I have refrenced its specific part number before on here.
Seeing as the red hose springs were disolved i wouldnt use the stuff they used before.
Yes, using the green Prestone. Never had a hose spring dissolve with it in 44 years in either my own vehicles or any vehicle I've worked on in the repair business.

The wear on the springs could also be partly due to "scrubbing" action by the fast and continuous flow through the hoses since there was no thermostat in place to slow it down. I don't know how long the hoses have been there or if the hour meter is correct, nor the water quality that was used. I still have a sample of the red stuff that was in it and might do a PH test on it to see where it falls on the scale.

The scrubbing action issue is a problem anywhere there is fast flow. Hydro Power plants experience it in their huge large volume water inlets, especially in elbows/corners as do large water mains until they build a layer of scale but that layer usually doesn't build on corners.

No doubt any corrosive chemical additive will add to the problem. I'm sticking with tried and true Prestone. Might even add a tablespoon of baking soda to buffer any residuals in the system trapped in engine block scale.
 

Hard Head

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I am working on silicon replacement hoses for both upper and lower. The anti-collapse springs are stainless and are inside the hose wall not inside the fluid path inner liner like the springs were. The smooth fluid liner inside the hose (Working temperatures are from -50 °C to +170°C, peaking at + 180°C). They are the best ones I could find on the market and are hand made to spec. I hope to have them in production within the next 2 months. I went with Zerex extended life. 6 years or 14,000 hours antifreeze. So 6 years is now my PM for antifreeze replacement.
 

Farmitall

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Excellent!!! A non exposed stainless steel spring will be a great improvement over conventional construction and the silicone stuff is top shelf.

Please keep us updated on the production progress.

I'll feel more comfortable with a couple of sets of hoses on the parts shelf, and thanks for the reference to the Zerex.

By the way, a friend in New Jersey has been powering his house with an 803a for the past few days and he says it's performing flawlessly, no interruption in his normal power usage. I'll bet there's a million people who wish they had one outside their home at the moment.
 

69birdman

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After following this post I decided to check or replace my thermostat, O'Reilly auto parts Mu55358 & 2138 in stock, my thermostat was a British 190°, Runs perfect 180° now with new Stat. Ready for summer now!
 

Farmitall

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After following this post I decided to check or replace my thermostat, O'Reilly auto parts Mu55358 & 2138 in stock, my thermostat was a British 190°, Runs perfect 180° now with new Stat. Ready for summer now!
Did you use a sealer on the housing? I use Indian Head gasket shellac.

My O'Reilly's only had one thermostat in stock but several of the gaskets. I had him order me three more stats and took home four gaskets with the one stat he had. Cheap enough parts to keep some on hand.
 

mlaxton

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I am working on silicon replacement hoses for both upper and lower. The anti-collapse springs are stainless and are inside the hose wall not inside the fluid path inner liner like the springs were. The smooth fluid liner inside the hose (Working temperatures are from -50 °C to +170°C, peaking at + 180°C). They are the best ones I could find on the market and are hand made to spec. I hope to have them in production within the next 2 months. I went with Zerex extended life. 6 years or 14,000 hours antifreeze. So 6 years is now my PM for antifreeze replacement.
Did you have these made?
 

mlaxton

Member
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Location
Florida
After following this post I decided to check or replace my thermostat, O'Reilly auto parts Mu55358 & 2138 in stock, my thermostat was a British 190°, Runs perfect 180° now with new Stat. Ready for summer now!
I just bought the mu55358, it’s holding temp great but this part did not have the bottom spring and flange like the original, what’s that for?AB4A6265-5EE3-4361-831B-14414022BB4B.jpeg
 

Ray70

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Yup, for the sake of a few bucks just replace it, don't even bother taking it out to test. I will guarantee it is stuck partially open.
Also, other reasons removing the t-stat will cause problems are: Coolant flowing too quickly and will not properly pick up or dissapate heat and removing the t-stat can cause a lack of pressure which prevents proper flow mainly through the far side of the cylinder head and obviously by lowering the pressure you lower the boiling point as well. Just like running too much antifreeze and not enough water will cause overheating.
 
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