• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

803a would not shut off

43
49
18
Location
Kenner Louisiana
So we’ve been running the generator 7 days now. I shut it down on Wednesday. I’m at work and power came back on. My wife attempted to shut down generator and nothing would work. Neighbor came over and pulled this plunger out the solenoid. What’s my fix. I’ll be home in the morning to take a look at it. This is the pictures she sent me. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 

Denvercaitland

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Much more knowledgeable people than me on this forum, but if it's of help. The last photo is the mechanism to adjust rpm ( which in turn adjust hertz) and would not have a role on set not shutting down. 2nd picture is fuel solenoid which when electricly powered move the fuel rail which allow fuel to enter injectors pump. By removing the plunger it allowed the fuel Rail to return to normally closed position cutting fuel off/ shutting engine down.
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,828
5,938
113
Location
MA
In the future the part that was 'pulled out' only needed to be forced left, to manually shut the metering pumps as Denvercaitland called out. OR... simply unplug the connector out of the back of it, which will kill the power to it, allowing the fuel rack to pull closed to its resting position. It is possible that depending on the condition of the metering pumps and the fuel rack, that a little manual assistance might still be required to close the fuel off... but that's the surefire way of making a set stop.

Now as to the solenoid... you may be able to reassemble this (as its an internal magnet assembly, or you may not. You will need to mess around and see if it will go back together). SA-3865 is the part number for this, should it need to be replaced. The OEM Woodward unit is over $200. There are Chicom imports for under $100. Do not misplace the items taken out... the bracket and nut assembly isn't available on the open market.

In an emergency situation, if you can block off the air intake you can stop one of these in their tracks too.
 
Last edited:

Denvercaitland

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1st pick is fuel solenoid in off position ( no power from switch). 2nd pick is solenoid activated - 803 running.

Pick 3 solenoid is normally off in all position until you move switch to START, on startup solenoid will remain activated on PRIME RUN, PRIME RUN AUX FUEL and will only deactivate when you move switch to OFF.

As light in the dark described I had some luck reassembling the solenoid.

Best wat to test solenoid is to take + lead off starter. This way you can move the start switch and clearly hear when solenoid activate/deactivate
 

Attachments

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,076
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
1st pick is fuel solenoid in off position ( no power from switch). 2nd pick is solenoid activated - 803 running.

Pick 3 solenoid is normally off in all position until you move switch to START, on startup solenoid will remain activated on PRIME RUN, PRIME RUN AUX FUEL and will only deactivate when you move switch to OFF.

As light in the dark described I had some luck reassembling the solenoid.

Best wat to test solenoid is to take + lead off starter. This way you can move the start switch and clearly hear when solenoid activate/deactivate
The best was to test L5 is to pull the plug, and apply a wire providing 24 VDC- to the black wire, 24VD+ to the white wire, (Pull) and then 24VDC+ to the red wire, (hold). Then as its still mounted on the engine, it will not fly apart, and you can SEE what it is doing.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,592
5,907
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
I don't think the OP was clear or might not even know what exactly the neighbor did to remove the solenoid plunger, but much like M32825 I have also seen these gens where the knob has vibrated loose from the shutoff lever, allowing the solenoid's plunger, spring and the linkage to fly out and end up lying in the bottom of the machine.
This could be as simple as reinserting the plunger pieces and screwing the knob back in.
Guess we won't know until he gets home and is able to report back as to exactly what is happening.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks