• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

'84 M1009 - Won't crank - 12v Roscommon converted

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Reroute or tie off. If it is too short to do that you may need to replace and lengthen it.
 

I_Publius

Member
316
3
18
Location
Prosper, TX
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394327258.891369.jpg

I will have to finish this up during the week. It's too dark and I don't have good lighting, or all my tools, here in my temp quarters.

I do believe, however, that the melted wire is most of my problem.

More, later in the week.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
With Spring time coming up we will have to get your A/C working. ;-)
 

I_Publius

Member
316
3
18
Location
Prosper, TX
I was literally just thinking about that. What information should I start gathering about the setup in order to start troubleshooting it??

Electrical connections
freon hoses
what else?

That is another area I have absolutely no experience in.
 

markg

Member
352
1
18
Location
hutto,tx
I was literally just thinking about that. What information should I start gathering about the setup in order to start troubleshooting it??

Electrical connections
freon hoses
what else?

That is another area I have absolutely no experience in.
134a is pretty cheap right now at sam's. 30 lbs for less than 90 bucks.(sell some to your freinds) after market a/c units are pretty simple. turn on switch inside the cab, see if you have power at the low pressure switch. if you are out of freon you can jump this switch with a paper clip and see if your compressor runs. is it noisy? if it runs and sounds failrly quiet you can add a little freon until it cycles on and off by itself with the low pressure switch plugged in. check for leaks. if it holds for a week, then i would have someone pull a vacume, add some oil and fill with 134a. good luck.
 

I_Publius

Member
316
3
18
Location
Prosper, TX
It seems as though I have the plumbing for the AC. Lines seem to be there. Wiring, I'll need to work on.

Looks as though field mice lived in vents at some point. Any way to clean those good?
 

markg

Member
352
1
18
Location
hutto,tx
It seems as though I have the plumbing for the AC. Lines seem to be there. Wiring, I'll need to work on.

Looks as though field mice lived in vents at some point. Any way to clean those good?
If you have a good air compressor and know to remove the dash pad you can blow all that stuff out. I have had military trucks with add on a/c but not with a 12v conversion. they must have mounted the compressor where the second alternator was? thanks. mark
 

I_Publius

Member
316
3
18
Location
Prosper, TX
Yes, Sir...they did. That second alt is gone, on the drivers side, and in it's place is a nice looking AC compressor. Now I just need to see if I can get her running. :)
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,259
1,770
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Compared to the truck, a/c is easy. Power to the switch in the cab. Power from the switch to the fan with different voltages for different fan speeds. Then you have a second knob that controls the temperature. When it is on, power will go from it to the compressor. Thats it.

I don't remember if yours had a hi/low pressure cut off switch on the accumulator or not. If so, then the wire from the thermostat switch to the compressor will go through it first.

Once the wiring is found to be correct. Along with a shop vac to clean out the vents. The mechanical part of the system is just like any other A/C out there.
 
Top