85 cucv 6.2 push button start?

[Imanewbietothis]

Hello all. I have a new farm truck! It's an 85 CUCV and I was wondering how one would go about wiring up a push to start system. Of course I would need a separate switch for the IP to shut off and turn on. I guess the real question is how would I make the gauges and dash lights work on a switch? I've looked at the ignition switch circuit and I can't seem to find one wire that powers everything on the dash(aka heater fan, speedometer,generator lights). Also truck was previously 12v swapped and chopped to h*** and back. Manual glow plugs switch installed as well.

 

[TGP (IL)]

What's the problem? Ign. switch?
Need a key?
There easily available.

Why not do it right?

Tom

 

[Imanewbietothis]

Because there is no ignition switch. It's been cut and all the wires are hanging free. When I bought it it wasn't running. But for 1100 I couldnt pass it up. Looks like he did the doghead mod already as well. All of the wires that should be connected to a switch are cut and hanging. It would be easier for me to figure out what powers what and switch it my own way.

 

[TGP (IL)]

I would cut a switch and connector out of salvage yard and splice it in and be done.
But, that must be too much work for you, so you need to download the TM manual
from this site and follow the diagrams at the end of this manual.
TM 9-2320-289-34


Tom

 

[cucvrus]

Sounds like someone did the hack job mod. I can not even imagine the combination of wires that would need to be connected to make everything operational with the main harness cut. Sounds like you need an entire under dash harness. I have one that I could send you and you could salvage the wires and connect them as they are supposed to be. I just removed it from a running M1028 that had a Gen 2 light on and had a few wires spliced and hacked also. But all the wiring at the column is good. You pay shipping and it's yours. That's about as good as it gets. Happy belated Holidays. I just have so much stuff I will never use I feel generous to assist. Good Luck.

 

[snowtrac nome]

I think its safe to say if you aren't capable of repairing it to original than you shouldn't be attempting a hack job. There should be 2 power wires and several that are in the run circuit. these will power the fuel system heater field winding on the alternators and one to run to the switch terminal on the starter. As others have stated it would be a lot less work to buy a new switch and plug than wire it back to how it was.

 

[Tinstar]

Taking a disaster and adding another disaster on top of it is solving nothing.

Looks can be deceiving.
A Mess of wires, taken one at a time, is more than fixable.
You also have an offer of a dash wiring harness that is known to be good.

Actually fixing it will not only make your new truck more reliable and prevent issues down the road, it will also allow you to use the TMs and receive help from guys here on SS.

It will take more time, but your truck will thank you for it.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Taking a disaster and adding another disaster on top of it is solving nothing.

Exactly.

It will take more time, but your truck will thank you for it.

Yep. And you'll find plenty of help here for the process.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

When I used the 800/900 switches, I used this diagram.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAm-N_PbREE

Bat 1 goes to IGN 1
Bat 2 goes to ACC
Bat 3 goes to IGN 3

Any of the 12V feeds can be used for the starter line.


I had to use separate relays for IGN 1 and IGN 3, as the alternator would supply power to the shutoff solenoid, and while the batteries were disconnected, the alternator kept the solenoid energized and the truck wouldn't shut off.. lol

It's actually quite simple.


I used 80 AMP Stinger relays which were ~15$ a piece....

 

[Kaedin]

When I used the 800/900 switches, I used this diagram.

Bat 1 goes to IGN 1
Bat 2 goes to ACC
Bat 3 goes to IGN 3

Any of the 12V feeds can be used for the starter line.


I had to use separate relays for IGN 1 and IGN 3, as the alternator would supply power to the shutoff solenoid, and while the batteries were disconnected, the alternator kept the solenoid energized and the truck wouldn't shut off.. lol

It's actually quite simple.


I used 80 AMP Stinger relays which were ~15$ a piece....

Any chance you could draw out a little wiring diagram to show what you did? I’m new to this and trying to figure out what you did and soak up all the info I can. Thank you!
-Kaedin

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Any chance you could draw out a little wiring diagram to show what you did? I’m new to this and trying to figure out what you did and soak up all the info I can. Thank you!
-Kaedin

I'm really not trying to be a d%&k, but if you don't know how to wire it with the diagram I supplied, you shouldn't be messing with high current wires. You miswire a cigarette lighter or a voltmeter and you let the magic smoke out. You miswire the ignition and you could end up with a pile of charred metal.

 

[Kaedin]

I'm really not trying to be a d%&k, but if you don't know how to wire it with the diagram I supplied, you shouldn't be messing with high current wires. You miswire a cigarette lighter or a voltmeter and you let the magic smoke out. You miswire the ignition and you could end up with a pile of charred metal.

Thanks for the help. Figured there are two ways to learn. Asking questions, and trial and error. Guess I’m giving it a shot and learning by trial and error then.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Thanks for the help. Figured there are two ways to learn. Asking questions, and trial and error. Guess I’m giving it a shot and learning by trial and error then.

Make sure everything is fused.

The ignition switch is just that, a switch. A relay is just a switch operated by another, lower current switch.

Bat 1 goes to IGN 1
Bat 2 goes to ACC
Bat 3 goes to IGN 3

It's a very simple diagram, and, again, if you can't understand how to wire it, with a simple diagram, then it's probably not something you should tackle. Again, not trying to be #%(&, but you're not wiring in a phone charger or something that will just not work if it's not done properly. You're messing with high current wires that if wired incorrectly, could burn down your truck, or cause your starter to stick on, or any number of issues.

It'd be like me telling you how to replace the electric meter on the side of your house. Super simple, but if I have to explain it, then you're not the one to do it, as the risk of injury/damage/death due to inexperience doesn't outweigh the 'help'... Basically, I don't wanna be responsible if you burn down your truck... I'm trying to say it nicely.