• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

85' M1009 build thread

367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
its Worked perfectly, each and every time ive had to use it... Not minutes trouble out of it... theres alot of people,, that are all over ARBs.. I have nothing against them, but i went with the Elocker, for simpicity.. You have to run a relayed 12v to locker... With ARB you have to run that to compressor and an air line to the locker.. too me.. that leaves more things to break or tear up instead of one... Sometimes keepin it simple.. is the way to go....:beer:
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
my 1009 is jealous

wow, I like it so much i am trying to build mine similar.
I just got a 1008 from gl, so I plan to use the axles from it for my 1009.
I have a 4l80e being rebuilt at this time. I think it will compensate just right for the lower gears i will have vs. your 456

planning on the ord tripple doubler also.

want 37's but planning on 6 inch lift instead of 4

need some wheels an tires pretty similar to what you have.

now that you have been able to wheel yours a little, what would you change?
would 6inch lift been an issue with anything in your build?
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Whats in the works now is redoing the crossmember holding the doubler.. currently im just using 2 factory crossmembers... but theres still too much movement of it in Double low... enough that the linkage hits floorpan and pops out of gear ( not all the time, only when it gets torqued really hard...) And it hangs down too low for my taste.. thinking of building a full custom crossmember going by the idea of Wallys pic's from ORD's website regarding crosmember


I so would love to run a 4L80e or a 700R4, mainly for the 4th gear for highway usage... That and then finally putting the 6.5L turbo, i have sitting on the shelf.

The 456 and doubler does perfect offroad, and I absolutely love the 3 stick... i find my self using just 2 wheel rear Low, alot... and only engage front when it gets rough.. as far as going 6" i wont gain anything but to move to a higher center of gravity, my fender are already cut, so... if i decided to go to larger tires, i would cut more than to move on to 6" lift...

I have 97 Z71 on 38"s w 9" lift ( 6"fabtech & 3"body ) my Cucv is same height with 37" and 4"
 
Last edited:

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
is your t-case clocked

as far as it hanging down lower, have you considered the clocking ring Ord has. I have not discussed it with them and not sure how that would work with 6 inch lift due to driveshaft angles. and also if it can be used with the doubler or if it is only for single 205 tcase usage.

mine will be 50/50 street/wheeling but %100 toy. have duramax for work truck and a jeep for DD erand running.

got to use the streets to get anywhere to wheel so I am doing the overdrive. rather have an extra computer than use the weaker 700r4
(in know they say they can build em tough but why worry about it)

I just want minimal trimming and I am going to have stock bumbers so my front wont appear as tall as yours with the custom bumper. I plan to put a 2inch receiver in front for a wench mount and on the plug in wench mount I will put light bars and additional brush gaurds/skid plate.

I have my own toy shop with welder, plasma cutter, torch. all the necessary stuff so I am going to build crossovers like Ord suggest with the rubber mounts. I plan to tie all this togather with the custome rock sliders that I plan to build similar to what others have built.

Like what you have done with your switches and interior add-ons. Not sure what I am going to do but would like to keep the install clean like yours.
Thanks for your thread and input. I still have a lot of parts buying to do. but I get a little accomplished every week.
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
I hear ya.. its a never ending ordeal... I'd love to come across a 4L80e, i just cant get past the cost of controller to make it shift... main reason i havent started collecting parts for that project. My toy shop, ( bunker ) is small but does the job for the most part. i hate the fact i have to put Street tires on mine just to squeeze it in there...lol
Still have sliders to do...( thinking on get just getting them from shankemdeep on here, he's making and selling some pretty tough ones...) Plus i just checked with Adam at Wide Open Designs here in Murfreesboro Tn, they do full custom tube Crawlers and such.. He's pretty cool to deal with, and i've rode a time or 2 with him.. I got with him in regards to a full custom interior rollcage.. ( through the dash. following cab curves as closely as possible, tieing it all into frame) I can do basic fab stuff, but im not even gonna try in bending and doing angles... Metal costs too much to learn the hard way, i will leave that to the pros...lol

Once all the hard fab stuff is done... then i will add AC, using mostly factory parts, and fab the rest.... Already decided compressor will go on Driver side.. and have a good idea how I'm going to fab up the mount for it. When its all said and done... the engine compartment will be just Stuffed full of things... then its full on with fixing the dents, holes, paint, etc... Still gona go full camo carc.. and include the custom bumpers and sliders into paint scheme..



I had mine clocked per ORD's recommendations, at 2 down i think..( cant remember) When i ordered the doubler kit from them. the adapter for the 203/205 did the clocking needed for my setup. You may want to get with them.. as i think you will be limited on how far you can clock it down with the 4L80e..( front driveshaft clearance issues from side of trans..)
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Well... its finally installed... after almost 2 months of waiting on parts, having ram travel limited, and lack of time due to work... its finally done.. havent been able to do any road tests yet. but air is purged and all looks good... redneck ram hydro assist... woo hoo!
 

Attachments

hokie8358

Member
87
0
6
Location
backwoods ,virginia
1 ton, that controller you made reference too. to run the 4l80e. i just bought a 4l80e out of a 91 chevy single wheel 1 ton. guy at junkyard owed me one and let me have it for 400 bucks. is that the only way to go to make it shift in cucv? and if so were do you get it from? i need to go shopping! lol
 

Gottlos

Former 95B Ft Sam Houston
Steel Soldiers Supporter
387
5
18
Location
Canyon Country, CA.
I would really like to see some close ups of your Unity light. That will be the next lighting upgrade for my M1009 if I can't figure out what to do with the IR headlamps I've got.
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
The 4L80e is all electronic.. it will need a stand alone computer/controller for it to shift. Do a google on 4L80e vs 700R4.. ( i think there maybe a thread here discussing this as well. You will see the difference and requirements needed to make it run in something different besides what it was orginally in. TCI makes the stand alone controller, but WOW.. they are pricey...

As far as build up goes for the REDNECK ram, I did the power steering pump mod, to save on sending it to them to perform it. ( same thing on their website under TECH ) i had a brand new under warranty rebuilt gearbox from Oreliy's I sent to them, to just do the Drill , port and tap ( not rebuild ), and just ordered the hose kit, mounting hardware kit ( helms joints, mounting tabs) and the ram itself. To me, that was the most cost effective way to get what i wanted. ( thought i was gonna to recieve just a standard ram, i was quite surprised to get a PSC ram in the kit.

ITs a good idea to figure out where your going to mount ram, either in place of factory steering stabilzer, or like me , on the backside of high steer arm. either way you need to get an EXACT measurement of travel lock to lock, from where your mounting. The ram usually has 8" movement. i had to get mine limited down to 5 1/4" West texas does this for you if order everything from them, It's just easier that way. I made a mistake and gave them the wrong measurements. and didnt know it. So i had it corrected locally, instead of sending it back to them. When your ready, just give them a call. they will walk thru every variable you may have already or plan to do on your truck, and come up with the best setup/kit for you. I HIGHLY recommend them to everyone...


Let me know if i can help any further.....


:beer:
 
Last edited:
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
I would really like to see some close ups of your Unity light. That will be the next lighting upgrade for my M1009 if I can't figure out what to do with the IR headlamps I've got.
Heres some quick pics, i just took a few min ago,... i dont like the way i had to modify the rail for weatherstripping. thinking of taking it to a Public safety radio shop in town, to see if theres a way to modify it a bit. Also looking to see if its even possible to modify bulb housing to accept a 7" bulb instead of 6" reason being.. i picked up some 28V Aircraft landing lights from popcom on SS
 

Attachments

BIG_RED

New member
385
0
0
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
There is a company that makes a fully mechanical valvebody for the 4l80e but you have to choose what gear you want yourself (aka slapstick, etc). I would go that route before the electric controller personally. It replaces the solenoids in the transmission with mechanical valves. You can install it yourself, just drop the pan (ten thousand times easier when it's not on the truck). I think the company is "transgo". Try googling it, I'm sure it'll come up.
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
any pics of the twin stick?? also the tc set up, thinking of doing it just not sure on the cost right now.

Vinny

With the Doubler, I went with a triple Stick using ORD hardware....
 

Attachments

367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Thanks!!! any advice.......any pointers...things to look out for??

Vinny

Take your time, you will need a 2nd crossmember, Depending on your lift, you will need to have Driveshafts shorten or retubed longer based on how you go...
I got both my transfercases at boneyard. ( 150.00 ) and then decided to go back and grab 2 more Front shafts from boneyard. (50.00)
Change the rear output on 205 to Fixed yoke flange. and had all 3 front Driveshafts retubed. i had them add a 8' slip shaft to each one. and split the distance, where all 3 interchange with front or rear.. it worked out good for mine.. I dont think you can get that lucky with a M1008 though.

Pay attention and read ORD's website regarding the doubler setup. and the differences with TM400, 350, 700R4, etc.... and the different versions of the 203 and the 205 transfercases... read first, so you kinda know what to look for at bone yard.

This is somewhat a costly project, but well worth it when its complete... Im so gald i went the route i did... in all i spent about 1700.00 in parts, which is alot cheaper than buying an Atlas transfercase, which will give you the same options, but for $4500...


let me know if you have any questions.....
 
Last edited:

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Heres some quick pics, i just took a few min ago,... i dont like the way i had to modify the rail for weatherstripping. thinking of taking it to a Public safety radio shop in town, to see if theres a way to modify it a bit. Also looking to see if its even possible to modify bulb housing to accept a 7" bulb instead of 6" reason being.. i picked up some 28V Aircraft landing lights from popcom on SS

I've been meaning to put one on since I bought the truck! The ones on my ex-sheriff dept Caprice are great! Super bright and they come in handy when it's really dark. It would get even more use on the truck!

So is this one that you got specifically for the Chevy truck, or is it a generic one? If it is model specific, do you have the part number? I remember looking a few years back and not being able to find the right part number on unity's website.
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
I've been meaning to put one on since I bought the truck! The ones on my ex-sheriff dept Caprice are great! Super bright and they come in handy when it's really dark. It would get even more use on the truck!

So is this one that you got specifically for the Chevy truck, or is it a generic one? If it is model specific, do you have the part number? I remember looking a few years back and not being able to find the right part number on unity's website.

This is one I pulled from a mid to late 80's Ford tow truck in a bone yard... ($10.00)
I think if you can call a public safety Store ( or a store that deals with oufitting police cars, EMA's, Etc ) in your area, they should be able to look up to what part number or length that would fit. Im thinking the only difference in these is the actually arm length between handle and light bezel. ( the part that goes through the Pillar )based on make and model its being installed on...
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Hey True Knight,

How did you do your rear Disc brakes? do you still have provisions for parking brake? and did you have to install an adjustable proportioning valve? I have the brackets,, Just havent picked up the rotors, or decided yet on what calipers to use...
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks