• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

85 M1009 CUCV purchase AAR

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
I just purchased my first MV, a 1985 M1009 CUCV with 67,800 miles last Saturday from an individual, I have put about 600 miles on it in about a weeks time. All in all it has proven to be a great purchase!

pros:

1. people get out of your way
2. it is always a conversation starter
3. it's paid for
4. support from this site rocks! (I had one small problem, which was answered pretty quick)see: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=28167

cons:

1. I remember one thing about CUCV's I can't stand no place for a coffee cup!
2. it's 23 years old and not everyone is going to be able to work on it ( I think the two batteries and dual alternators might scare them off..... lol)
3. Diesel is still a bit high priced and some of the places near my house don't sell it
4. it may have some electrical problems see above thread
5. while mine seems to drive well it does not seem to like hills so much it slows down to about 50-55mph going up steep hills, the rest of the time it can cruise about 70-75mph but I tend to keep it about 60-65


I still have not fixed the burned diode, but it seems to run fine without it (so far) anyone know what it is for?


Thanks,
Dale
 

Attachments

BobM

Member
598
6
18
Location
Fillmore, Indiana
Wanna have fun? Drive past an elementary school when the kids are on the playground. All the boys will watch you pass.:wink: I think that is a hoot!
Welcome. There are a great group of people here.
 

Dodgeman1941

New member
128
1
0
Location
W. MI
One thing you have listed as a con but it really is a pro, it's 23 years old and a normal person can work on it. These things are basic that anyone with a basic tool set can do a majority of work on them. With my '99 Durango I wouldn't know where to start other than brining it in to the mechanic and have him put it on the computer. Also with it's basic contruction there is alot less to go wrong. With my Durango, the ABS speed sensor went bad and we chased the problem around and around following the dealers manual. In the meanwhile it had the computer in a hissy, put it to a check engine fault, and everything when in to safe mode and put the fuel to full rich. With the Blazer, speedo don't work that is all, you check a couple of the components in the speedo system and it's back working.

Where is the diode located, I can't tell exactly where it is at from the pic?
 

K45

New member
153
0
0
Location
Statesville NC
I completely agree with older vehicle being better. There is alot of part out there that has had the 23 yrs to proof itself to work. The ablitly to work on something and not have a ton of expensive computer/electronic tools. As far as the speedo chances are its the cable. That is the common problem. As far as the no place for a coffee cup you can get a a civilian center console that bolts right up or build your own.

I remember seeing that m1009 on ebay awhile back. It looks pretty good. I hope it works out for you.
 

CARNAC

The Envelope Please.
Supporting Vendor
8,275
617
113
Location
Corpus Christi, TX
Wanna have fun? Drive past an elementary school when the kids are on the playground. All the boys will watch you pass.:wink: I think that is a hoot!
Welcome. There are a great group of people here.
DANG BOB! Folks are going to start talking about you cruising the elementary school! LOL


btw, that's a nice looking 1009.
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
Where is the diode located, I can't tell exactly where it is at from the pic?
it is easy to see once you remove the airfilter it is centered against the rear firewall.

Oh I agree that older trucks are easier to work on. That was a jest referring to the two batteries and two alternators.

Dale
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC


I remember seeing that m1009 on ebay awhile back. It looks pretty good. I hope it works out for you.
I had made a reasonable offer that if it it did not sell on e-bay I could purchase it for. I count myself lucky to have it as it is in good shape. It was the HQ 7 Vehicle for 730 th QM. Seeing that it was 1sg's ride it was maintained well. the fellow I bought it from had two, one had less mileage that he is keeping. Both had 6" lift blocks and Humv tires on them. He also mentioned that he has two 2.5 ton Deuce with winch and he said he would sell one for 4k. I think the next truck I get will be a GL purchase, I will have to wait until I move to FT Lewis, WA in late January though.

Dale
 
Last edited:

K45

New member
153
0
0
Location
Statesville NC
I recomend that if it has rear lift blocks that you change them to either lift springs or shackle flip. I also suggest once those tires are wore down you replace them with the 37" radials. They will do better for you and also if you are going across the country.
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
I recomend that if it has rear lift blocks that you change them to either lift springs or shackle flip. I also suggest once those tires are wore down you replace them with the 37" radials. They will do better for you and also if you are going across the country.
Thanks- it will be a 2500 mile trip. I also need a spare as he only replaced the the four running tires.

Dale
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
Oh I plan on buying a trailer from GL, I know the TM recommends 3/4 ton only but I am wondering if I can get away with pulling a M105A2 trailer? I ask this for two reasons one because there seems to more of them available and two because I have the lift kit installed.

Thanks,
Dale
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
It was kind of cold today, and I ran into a new problem.... I discovered a bit ago that while the rear window still works it sometimes seems to go off track. Being that I am on active duty still, it was on my "to do list". Today I had to use the window to get a flat tire out as I dropped it off at the PX to have them replace it, I attempted to crank the handle and the window was rolling up at a angle (right side was dropped down), so I opened the gate again and adjusted the window manually as I have done before and it seemed straight. The window was only a 1/3 the way up so I went to close the tailgate and WoW something was not right! The window exploded and glass went everywhere. I am attempting to get a replacement made for $85 from a local auto glass shop, it will be $140 if I want them to install. :evil: just in time for Christmas......it's always something.

Dale
 

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
8
0
Location
Paducah, KY
Yeah...don't want to put the gate up with the window extended...try www.car-part.com or look on ebay for a company called LKQ. Either that or hit up here and CK5 for guys parting out trucks.

I never saw this thread before so some thoughts:
-For cup holders just find a civilian center console and bolt it in. You can also add fold down cup holders to the dash...been meaning to go to the local boating stores and find some.

-Driveability - does it still have the 3.08 gears in the axles? If so then that's why it's a bit of a dog. You're also on borrowed time with 10 bolts, the Gov-Bomb in the rear, and 36" tires.

-lift blocks - rear only right? Front blocks are BAAAAAD.

-Trailer - the M101 is fine (if heavy compared to a similar civilian trailer) but the M105 is too heavy at any time except empty...especially for a M1009. You can move it empty but it's pretty close to the tow rating for the truck anyways. Put any sizable load in it and you're past the safe rating.
I forget...are M101's spring over or spring under the trailer axle? If under you could always do a spring over swap on the trailer and if over then just buy a set of lift blocks for the trailer.
 

emmado22

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,055
143
63
Location
Mid Hudson Valley NY
Actually, for the M1009, the TM says only a 1/4 ton trailer should be towed.... The M105 series is WAY too big to safely tow behind any CUCV, but especially a M1009.....
 

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
8
0
Location
Paducah, KY
Every time this is discussed someone on here mentions how it's been done...but always empty...never loaded. Empty they're within the weight capacities of a diesel powered K5 just fine...empty...
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
update

Turns out what made the window explode was the right side window regulator (a small plastic wheel) was broken so there was direct glass to metal contact, this along with the cold temp caused the mishap. I still have a bit of glass to clean up but most is cleaned up. It cost $150 to have new glass and regulators installed.

Dale
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
-Driveability - does it still have the 3.08 gears in the axles? If so then that's why it's a bit of a dog. You're also on borrowed time with 10 bolts, the Gov-Bomb in the rear, and 36" tires.

A: Yes, I am fairly sure it still has 3.08 gears. What do you recommend?

-lift blocks - rear only right? Front blocks are BAAAAAD.

A: yes, rear bolcks only

-Trailer - the M101 is fine (if heavy compared to a similar civilian trailer) but the M105 is too heavy at any time except empty...especially for a M1009. You can move it empty but it's pretty close to the tow rating for the truck anyways. Put any sizable load in it and you're past the safe rating.
I forget...are M101's spring over or spring under the trailer axle? If under you could always do a spring over swap on the trailer and if over then just buy a set of lift blocks for the trailer.

A: As far as trailers go I am still looking for a M101 series trailer but there do not seem to be any for auction or for sale in the Southeast. I wish I knew who won the lot of 3 M101's out of Montgomery, AL earlier this month. I was bidding on them but the auction was pulled last month when GL canceled some auctions I was going to bid on them again when they were relisted but I was TDY without internet....oh well....sigh

Oh I also went to drive her in to FT Benning this morning and the GEN 2 belt snapped, it was a easy enough fix but it put me late getting into work though.

Happy Holidays,
Dale
 
Last edited:

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
8
0
Location
Paducah, KY
36's and no over drive then 4.10's would probably be a good ratio.
Might look for some 3/4 ton axles out of a civilian truck. Many came with that ratio from the factory and the rear axle would be loads better than the 10 bolt you have now, even with a 14 Semi Floater.

Good, like I said...front blocks are BAAAAAAAD. Just asking for trouble. Might think about rear springs or a shackle flip to lower those blocks a bit. Bet you get some axlewrap with tall ass blocks like that.

Just keep looking. Earlier this year it seemed like everyone had a M101 to sell. There were a few on here in the classifieds at any time and GL was loaded with them. Hell, the Lansing, MI place even had a bunch of A1's with the 8 lug wheels! I already have a trailer but I was even tempted...
 

dmc-4359

Member
102
1
18
Location
Chapin, SC
Turns out what made the window explode was the right side window regulator (a small plastic wheel) was broken so there was direct glass to metal contact, this along with the cold temp caused the mishap. I still have a bit of glass to clean up but most is cleaned up. It cost $150 to have new glass and regulators installed.

Dale
Both of mine (the plastic/nylon wheels) were gone and the previous owner just left the glass down. I pulled the two tracks bolted to the glass frame, took some measurements and as luck would have it, had a pair of 1/8th inch thick tapered washer looking things that were the same diameter as what the window track would use. Anyway, I ended up spacing them appropriately from the crank arms with regular washers and just did two nuts locked together on the bolt so that it could rotate freely but not manage to work itself loose. I've only had it in play for the last several days though, so I can't say that what I have done isn't retarded yet.

Just thought I'd venture what I did in case someone else needs to come up with something in a pinch.
 

ABN173

Active member
1,842
11
38
Location
FT Bragg, NC
Both of mine (the plastic/nylon wheels) were gone and the previous owner just left the glass down. I pulled the two tracks bolted to the glass frame, took some measurements and as luck would have it, had a pair of 1/8th inch thick tapered washer looking things that were the same diameter as what the window track would use. Anyway, I ended up spacing them appropriately from the crank arms with regular washers and just did two nuts locked together on the bolt so that it could rotate freely but not manage to work itself loose. I've only had it in play for the last several days though, so I can't say that what I have done isn't retarded yet.

Just thought I'd venture what I did in case someone else needs to come up with something in a pinch.
Whatever works in a bind, but FYI any auto glass shop should carry the regulators, mine were $8 for the pair. I would learn from my mistake though metal on glass is bad juju.

Dale
 
Top