86 M1009 Build

[dyocis]

I've been a member for a month or 2 since I first bought my CUCV. I finally have most of the parts and donor vehicle for my build and thought since everyone here is so helpful, maybe something I do will help someone else.

Here's what I have so far:

-1986 M1009 with a blown 6.2 $900
-6.2L diesel fresh from a HMMWV (rebuilt Oct 2002) $400
-82 K-5 (less engine and tranny) with a 6inch lift and 3/4 ton axles from a 77 Chevy suburban (I think that's what the guy said) $700
-Hummer 8 bolt rims, re-centered for 8 lugs with a rock ring already installed $300
-37x12.5.16.5 military take-offs $400

I currently have the truck and new engine at my buddies shop. He's a diesel mechanic, so he's doing the swap and getting it running for me. I am putting the rims in the shop to be sandblasted and powder coated flat black.

After that is done, my plan is to get it to the body shop and have all the rust removed and lay down a thick rust preventive primer. I haven't decided if I want to just have them do the paint or save a little money and try the Behr household paint. Its going to be flat black, I like the camo paint jobs but its just not for me. This isn't going to be a show/parade truck, just my SHTF vehicle and go play in the desert toy.

So far its only cost me about $2700 to get this far, and after typing that right now, I realize I could have an unmolested CUCV for less than that as we speak. BUT, it will be mine, and I will have blood, sweat, and tears into it. I am a computer geek by trade and have rebuilt 5 wrecked Harleys over the years to feel like I actually accomplish something, so this is my next thing.

I'll upload some pics, and keep you guys updated as I make progress. I'm sure I'll be needing your help as I go along!

 

[dyocis]

Since I am going to have most of this truck apart at some point, are there any suggestions for upgrades or changes to do while its apart?

I also got a 205 tcase with the blazer donor. The CUCV has a 208 tcase correct? Are there any advantages to keeping the 208? I am thinking about twin sticking the 205 and sticking it in there.

Also, the old engine was previously converted to a 12v system with a single alternator and battery. I am going to keep the 12v system but put the other alternator back on and have a separate 12v system for all the accessories I plan on adding.

Has anyone put a belt driven compressor on the 6.2 with both alternators in place? Doesn't seem like a lot of room left with them installed.

I am going to be painting all the suspension parts and axle housings as I replace them also, and probably spray some undercoating on while there is room under there.

 

[southdave]

Might I suggest the following before doing M998 swap. buy a reing kit, swap out the and bearing and install feldpro 6.5 gasketkit. also
You need to do a search hmmwv engine swap.. about the particulars..

 

[dyocis]

reing kit? assuming you meant ring kit, and bearing/gasket set for the crank?

My buddy (the mechanic doing the swap) is going to change out the oil pan and headers, and replace the gaskets for the valve covers and oil pan. He's also going to switch out the tach sensor for the vacuum pump. All the sensors and throttle cable assembly will be changed also. I'm having him replace all the vacuum and fuel hoses and paint the block, heads, oil pan, and valve covers while its stripped. As he is doing this, he will be replacing any bearing/gaskets he feels he needs to.

I also got a spin-on fuel filter setup from the guy I bought the engine from, but I won't mess with that till I know the engine is where it needs to be mechanically, and good-to-go for tinkering. I will also be replacing the fuel lines from the tank to the IP just to be on the safe side. Don't need something stupid holding up progress!

 

[southdave]

I swap in a couple of can engines, and found that most depot engines( march 2007) have issues I have 3 of which looks as if they where never installed. First one I swaped had good compression ect.. developed a wierd knock and a leak around the pass head. the 800 bucks IMHO was well spent, although I have gotten really good at swapping motors out of 1009 (2.25 hr to pull the last motor out by myself in the back yard)

 

[pigfoot63]

I agree with South Dave. Pull the heads replace the gasketsI. These engines were swapped for some reason. I.E. blown head gasket, glow plug on top of piston, cracked head, leaking or bad injector. If you choose not to do at least run a comprression test before installing the engine. Also replace your mechanical fuel pump with correct one for CUCV whiile you have the engine out.

 

[southdave]

Motors
One engine was from a short bus the turbo install more less wiped out the cam bearing ( the good wrench enginge)

the flat black motor was depot rebuild with mis match bearing installed on the same journal twice ( #3 & #4 piston .20 .10) and leaked around pass rear.

I took the motor to a machine shop, along with another had both gone though . ouch $ 2400 parts and labor

 

[dyocis]

I swap in a couple of can engines, and found that most depot engines( march 2007) have issues I have 3 of which looks as if they where never installed. First one I swaped had good compression ect.. developed a wierd knock and a leak around the pass head. the 800 bucks IMHO was well spent, although I have gotten really good at swapping motors out of 1009 (2.25 hr to pull the last motor out by myself in the back yard)

The guy I bought the engine from had it on an engine stand and running when I bought it. Although I am not a professional diesel mechanic, it sounded really good. The mechanic is going to replace anything he feels like needs it while he is swapping everything from the original to the new block. I bought a complete gasket set for the entire engine a couple of weeks ago before I new if the original engine was good or not.

 

[dyocis]

Got another question since I have been reading about it. Should I go ahead and get a pre-lube oil pump since I will have the engine out anyway? Does anyone use them, and does anyone have preferences of manufacturer?

 

[southdave]

Got another question since I have been reading about it. Should I go ahead and get a pre-lube oil pump since I will have the engine out anyway? Does anyone use them, and does anyone have preferences of manufacturer?

in SD CA I think in kind of unnessary, more inportant is have well serviced GP system and starter sytem . the oil flows extemly well with the stock oil pump.
meaning 3 second crank will move oil into the cam valley..

 

[southdave]

The guy I bought the engine from had it on an engine stand and running when I bought it. Although I am not a professional diesel mechanic, it sounded really good. The mechanic is going to replace anything he feels like needs it while he is swapping everything from the original to the new block. I bought a complete gasket set for the entire engine a couple of weeks ago before I new if the original engine was good or not.

I would still check it out before it went in.. I blindly installed my last motor in m1009. it bit me in the buttocks. I would at least swap the gasket and inspect the lower end.. at the min. a compression test and presure test on the coolant passages so you know what to expect down the road.

 

[Racallahan1]

You're off to a great start. Wish that guy had accepted one of my offers for that ride! I'll have to live vicariously through you until I win one at auction.

 

[dyocis]

You're off to a great start. Wish that guy had accepted one of my offers for that ride! I'll have to live vicariously through you until I win one at auction.

You can help me turn wrenches on it when I'm in town. I can use all the help I can get! I'll even buy the beer

 

[Racallahan1]

You can help me turn wrenches on it when I'm in town. I can use all the help I can get! I'll even buy the beer

You'd have to double check my work, since I'm not a mechanic, but I'd appreciate the practice.

 

[dyocis]

Update: The mechanic has the new motor in, and is finishing up the wiring and bolting on the accessories. Should be a runner by tomorrow or Wednesday. I work out of town during the week, so I won't be there but at least there is some forward movement! I also uploaded some photos of the H1 rims, some rust, and the wiring mess i will be digging into when I get back into town.

 

[dyocis]

You'd have to double check my work, since I'm not a mechanic, but I'd appreciate the practice.

I'm leaving the mechanical stuff to my buddy since he's an actual mechanic and owes me! I'll do doing the axle swap, wiring, and suspension though. I may be switching out the t-case for a 205 also. Extra hands are always welcome, especially for the heavy lifting and grunt work!

 

[forest522]

Dyocis,

Good thread. Your project captures many issues we all face or have faced. I'd like to hear how the progress is going on your project, as I am facing a engine rebuild or replacement and have a lot of concerns.

I'm curious how the swap will go. I was just told by a trusted mechanic that my engine is ok and runnable, but weak. It's time is running out, basically. Its not a daily driver, but my kids and I really like driving it around and going out in the woods. As the family's second car, we would like it to be reliable. So I have some work ahead of me.

Questions for you sir:

The donor engine - a freshly rebuilt 6.2 from a HMMV for $400 - WOW, great price. Is this common? Where did you find such a deal?

Looks like a swap is a day or less job, is that what really happened when your mechanic was finished? What kind of "follow on" tasks were there after the swap or was it jump in and drive?

Thanks and good luck with your project!

 

[dyocis]

Questions for you sir:

The donor engine - a freshly rebuilt 6.2 from a HMMV for $400 - WOW, great price. Is this common? Where did you find such a deal?

Looks like a swap is a day or less job, is that what really happened when your mechanic was finished? What kind of "follow on" tasks were there after the swap or was it jump in and drive?

Thanks and good luck with your project!

From what I can find on this site, CL, and some other forums you can find 6.2s for around this price. I got lucky and got mine from a guy that bought it for a project and decided to do something different; he just wanted to get rid of it and free space in his garage. It also worked out that I had the money, and I was in town that weekend to pick it up! I checked into rebuilds and long blocks, but most of them cost around 1k to 1.5k.

The guy I bought it from had it running, when I bought it and it sounded good, but I won't know the true status of the engine until its running, and my mechanic can do a rundown on it. I work out of town during the week, so I can't give a daily status. He owns a diesel shop and tow service during the day so he has his guys mess with it when its slow, and spends a few hours on it here and there himself.

Since its not my DD and I'm not in a hurry its taken about 2 weeks to get the donor engine cleaned up, painted, and in the truck. He's working on all the accessories (alternator, belts,PS, vacuum hoses, sensors, throttle linkage) and should have it running today or tomorrow but definitely by this weekend.

I can't really give you any lessons learned form the swap yet, but there are a few things I know I will have to address before I can say its reliable. The truck hasn't run for a least a year, so the tranny will need new fluids and filter, along with the t-case and diffs. I'm going to have the radiator flushed, although there was no rust or cloudiness when it was drained, I still want to have it pressure tested along with the rest of the cooling system.

Hope there was a little useful info in that verbal vomit I just did. Let me know if you have any more questions!

 

[dyocis]

I talked to my buddy last night and he said that the bottom end of the engine looks good and there was no water in the oil pan, so it looks like the old engine might not be in bad a shape as I thought. We both think it is either a broken or bend valve preventing the engine from turning over. If that is the case, and there are no cracks or major damage, I'm going to have it send to the machine shop to be freshened up and new internals put in it as I have the spare cash. I've already got a fresh set of heads and a remanned crank (-.10 under) so the pricey things are going to be having the IP rebuilt, turbo kit, and the pistons and push rods. But I will have a fresh motor with a turbo ready to drop in when its complete! OR it is bad, and I'll have to scrap the block all together...who knows LOL

 

[M1009 Fiend]

What are you planing for the rest of your parts truck?