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86 M1009 Build

What should I paint it?

  • Flat black

    Votes: 21 41.2%
  • Rhino Line it black

    Votes: 30 58.8%

  • Total voters
    51

dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
What are you planing for the rest of your parts truck?
I'm not sure how much is going to be left. I'll be putting the best parts on the CUCV and the parts left over will be for sale, or free depending on condition. The axles and suspension will be swapped so the cucv axles and stock suspension will be for sale and the transfer case I don't use will be for sale. I will probably be selling the donor top, and the CUCV tailgate.

Like I said though, once I get them side by side, I will no more of what is going and what is staying. I'll put up classified ads for everything. I have to get the donor stripped and gone in a relatively short amount of time. This weekend I will be able to get better info on it.
 

dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
A little update. The bottom end of the engine I bought has some weird noises coming out of it....SOOO I'm going to have the machinist next door take both engines and make one good one out of it. The good part is i already have a freshly machined crank so it will basically come down to a valve job and having all the mating surfaces machined. He's gonna give me a 3 years/30,000 mile warranty on the rebuild too!! While that is happening, the body guy will be addressing all the rust and putting down a couple layers of zinc-oxide primer. Once I figure out if I want to paint it flat black or rhino-line the entire exterior, he will do that.

I attached some pics of the donor truck. I'm going to be using the axles, suspension, and drive-shafts to begin with. I may put the np205 in there if it will mate to the th400 without any mods or buying expensive couplers. If it will fit, I'm going to twin stick it. If not, I'll wait till I have the th350 rebuilt with heavy duty clutches. It already has a B&M shift-kit in it.

Just wish I worked closer to home so I could get some of this stuff done after work. Working on it every 2 weeks for a day or 2, is really killin me. I could do all the engine work and body work myself if I was there.
 

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dyocis

New member
85
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0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
So here are my two ideas for exterior paint. Done right, I think both will look good. The Rhino lining will give me a better protective coat, but it will be a huge PITA if I ever decide I want to change the color. But that's not likely. All the trucks and motorcycles I own are black. The flat black, is a little played out, especially in southern California, but I really like the way it looks. I put a poll up. Let me know what you would do.:grd:
 

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Racallahan1

Member
38
0
6
Location
San Diego, ca
So here are my two ideas for exterior paint. Done right, I think both will look good. The Rhino lining will give me a better protective coat, but it will be a huge PITA if I ever decide I want to change the color. But that's not likely. All the trucks and motorcycles I own are black. The flat black, is a little played out, especially in southern California, but I really like the way it looks. I put a poll up. Let me know what you would do.:grd:
Dyocis,

How's the project coming along?
 

dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
Its going slow. The engine should be going back in soon, and the body work should be starting in the next week or two. My buddy is doin the engine for basically cost so its not high on the list of priorities. And the body guy is his employee, so its at about the same level. I really hoped it would be done faster but only being in town every other weekend doesn't allow me to do any of the work myself.

I did rip out all the POs electrical mayhem and the stock harness actually looks pretty good. I'm swapping out the trashed gauges and dummy lights for a civy cluster with actual gauges. I think I'm done tracing all the wiring and have everything figured out, but I won't know till the engine is up and running again. I've been buying little parts here and there, and once the engine and body work are done, the axles will be swapped and then it will be my turn start putting all the cool stuff in.
 

southdave

Active member
1,986
6
38
Location
ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
FYI
theres a guy in Hisperia Ca that has NOS headlight harness ect.. He is on this site alot. Oh Btw Just re read the whole thread. Please allow me to apologized for coming of like richard craium illiterate . I was Just venting from my last experince.
 
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dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
Just a little update. The engine has been rebuilt and is running good. Got the civvy gauge installed and all the gauges are working. The body work should be started this week, and hopefully painted next week. Heres a few pics.
 

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IdahoPlowboy

Member
286
13
18
Location
Ririe Idaho
I've been a member for a month or 2 since I first bought my CUCV. I finally have most of the parts and donor vehicle for my build and thought since everyone here is so helpful, maybe something I do will help someone else.

Here's what I have so far:

-1986 M1009 with a blown 6.2 $900
-6.2L diesel fresh from a HMMWV (rebuilt Oct 2002) $400
-82 K-5 (less engine and tranny) with a 6inch lift and 3/4 ton axles from a 77 Chevy suburban (I think that's what the guy said) $700
-Hummer 8 bolt rims, re-centered for 8 lugs with a rock ring already installed $300
-37x12.5.16.5 military take-offs $400

I currently have the truck and new engine at my buddies shop. He's a diesel mechanic, so he's doing the swap and getting it running for me. I am putting the rims in the shop to be sandblasted and powder coated flat black.

After that is done, my plan is to get it to the body shop and have all the rust removed and lay down a thick rust preventive primer. I haven't decided if I want to just have them do the paint or save a little money and try the Behr household paint. Its going to be flat black, I like the camo paint jobs but its just not for me. This isn't going to be a show/parade truck, just my SHTF vehicle and go play in the desert toy.

So far its only cost me about $2700 to get this far, and after typing that right now, I realize I could have an unmolested CUCV for less than that as we speak. BUT, it will be mine, and I will have blood, sweat, and tears into it. I am a computer geek by trade and have rebuilt 5 wrecked Harleys over the years to feel like I actually accomplish something, so this is my next thing.

I'll upload some pics, and keep you guys updated as I make progress. I'm sure I'll be needing your help as I go along!
The tag in the second pic says NTC 31s maint. I was in the company in 1984 I even new folks that worked in that shop. Small world
 

dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
Thanks, it's taken me forever but my buddy has been slow and he finally had a chance to get the engine work done. Now i can start getting everything else going.
 

Danger Ranger

New member
2,253
23
0
Location
Roland, IA
I voted for rhino liner, but I dont want you to do the whole thing. People think that they need an armored vehicle so they get everything rhinolined. Chances are you don't. Just do the bottom half or the rockers or something. When the whole thing is done, you can only wash it with a hose or pressure washer. Nothing will work for scrubbing due to the texture. what a PITA.
You are gonna be in the desert, no? Why on God's green earth would you choose black?!? Pick another more creative color that won't cook you like an oven. Go old school.
 

dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
I still havent decided on rhino lining, but it is going to be painted flat black, well I'm having the paint mixed to match the powder coating that I've had done on the rims. It's not completely flat but not really a satin finish either, somewhere in between.

I know black isn't the preferred color for a lot of people, but my truck and all of my Harleys are flat black. Desert season is in the fall, and winter so a warm truck is not a bad thing sometimes :thumbup:
 

dyocis

New member
85
0
0
Location
Paso Robles, CA
So just a little update. Got the civy battery trays in. and 2 Optima Red Top batteries. Also, the PO wired to manual glow plug switch to +12v instead of ground, so I had relay chatter. Naturally I assumed that the relay was bad and bought a new one. After I installed it, it still chattered. I started looking and found the wiring problem. Rewired to ground and now everything is working properly. Eventually I will get a new GP module and use the Manual as backup, but for now it works, and I live in San Diego so its not really a big deal anyway.

Took the dash off to clean and found that the PO used screws to mount the old dash pad to the dash frame and then glued on a cover. Needless to say, I now need a new dash pad.

I've got a question about the GEN1 light. Right now it's not hooked up, and the one (driver side) ALT I am running is charging the batteries. I know they are used in the exciter circuit in stock configuration, but do they do anything with the 12v config? Eventually I will be re-installing a 2nd ALT to charge a set of batteries for auxiliary lighting, and a DC/AC converter, but I will probably not use a stock ALT for it.

Also, can anyone tell me what this Blue/red wire is and where it goes. It has a single barrel water tight connector on it, and I can't find anything that it plugs into. it comes through the firewall with the GP temp sensor wires. I've looked through the F-1, F-4, F-7, F-8, F-11, F-13,and F-20 wiring diagrams but I can't find it anywhere. If someone can give me some insight I would greatly appreciate it!
 

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Hasdrubal

New member
690
4
0
Location
Vancouver BC
Another member originally posted this info, it might be this ; The big blue wire at the gp relay is not connected to anything and it is in the same bunch as the wires that go to the temp switch/relay/control card./ It does not receive anything in the M1008 or M1009 series trucks. Only used for the fuel pump on the 1010 ambulance. Just a wire to nowhere.
 
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