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86 M1009 Water Pump

Jmccarty25

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Hey fellas, I am replacing a leaking water pump on an M1009 and was wondering what additional parts I should consider replacing while doing so? She runs fine but If I can stay ahead of common failures (engine wise) I would like to. Thanks.
 

jplace1011

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Hey fellas, I am replacing a leaking water pump on an M1009 and was wondering what additional parts I should consider replacing while doing so? She runs fine but If I can stay ahead of common failures (engine wise) I would like to. Thanks.
The timing cover that sits right above the water pump might be an idea, if it’s still the original. Or at least put a new gasket/silicone around it.


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cucvrus

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The upper timing cover has to come off anyway. the water pump is bolted in from behind. But I would replace the water manifold crossover gaskets and the rear head cover gaskets along with all the hoses. I did find that the Generator 2 bracket may need a little grinding to get to fit some of the replacement water pumps. Good Luck.
 

WWRD99

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Absolutely harmonic balancer if you haven't already!! I did mine a month ago and found it was about to come apart...can't see it when it's on the truck...very worth changing...check the front pulley as well...might be rusted out...the other thing is belts too.
 

LT67

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What everyone else said; change the balancer. It may look okay, but that's 35yr old rubber that's hard and dry. Old balancers kill these engines. A new balancer is cheap insurance for a 6.2 diesel.
 

Jmccarty25

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I have to say I am incredibly grateful and impressed by the amount of and quality of responses I have received from my first post so far. What a great community.
I will replace all of the items recommended for sure. Hopefully I won't have any issues sourcing the parts. Thanks everyone. I will keep y'all posted. Thanks again.
 

WWRD99

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I have to say I am incredibly grateful and impressed by the amount of and quality of responses I have received from my first post so far. What a great community.
I will replace all of the items recommended for sure. Hopefully I won't have any issues sourcing the parts. Thanks everyone. I will keep y'all posted. Thanks again.
If you're looking for parts find the TM section on this site for the M1009....there is a parts break down that gives you every part number for everything on it...google search out that part number and you should be able to find about anything NOS...or new not old!! I got a original gm balancer that was not old stock and didn't want old stock because of the rubber ring that can fall apart over time...if you look at changing the belts they can be a pain to find ones that fit good...if you can't find right ones search out my thread on mine as I think I take pics of about everything and should be on there of what I used, could be a good starting point to try.
 

jplace1011

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If you're looking for parts find the TM section on this site for the M1009....there is a parts break down that gives you every part number for everything on it...google search out that part number and you should be able to find about anything NOS...or new not old!! I got a original gm balancer that was not old stock and didn't want old stock because of the rubber ring that can fall apart over time...if you look at changing the belts they can be a pain to find ones that fit good...if you can't find right ones search out my thread on mine as I think I take pics of about everything and should be on there of what I used, could be a good starting point to try.
Don’t forget to replace the Seal behind the Harmonic Balancer as well. It’s right there! I was able to get both of those parts from the dealer. Just a thought.


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MarcusOReallyus

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fyi, you don't have an 86. You have an 84. The Army didn't want the hassle of dealing with model year changes in their supply chain, so they required them all to be built to 84 specs. When you need parts, you want parts for a 1984 K30 with the J code 6.2 diesel, no matter if your truck was built in 84, 85, or 86.

:beer:
 

cucvrus

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What about 1987. I have the odd ball M1028 that is a 1987. It is in a time capsule. It seems to have stopped rusting and just keeps taking a licking and keeps on ticking. This is light work in comparison to the jobs I have accomplished with it. DSCF7668.JPG DSCF7670.JPG Getting back on subject. Changing the water pump on these can be a real challenge. To do it right it can take about 5-6 hours. Get the parts you need and keep in mind you may need to grind the Gen2 bracket a bit to get it seated. I posted this thread again for reference. CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey | Page 3 | SteelSoldiers
Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
 

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Jmccarty25

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What about 1987. I have the odd ball M1028 that is a 1987. It is in a time capsule. It seems to have stopped rusting and just keeps taking a licking and keeps on ticking. This is light work in comparison to the jobs I have accomplished with it. View attachment 851157 View attachment 851158 Getting back on subject. Changing the water pump on these can be a real challenge. To do it right it can take about 5-6 hours. Get the parts you need and keep in mind you may need to grind the Gen2 bracket a bit to get it seated. I posted this thread again for reference. CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey | Page 3 | SteelSoldiers
Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
Very cool. Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!
 

Jmccarty25

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Looking at harmonic balancers and the price ranges dramatically. I realize some are geared for higher performance engines however, even the OE options range a bit. At the local parts store I can get either Dorman ($100) or ACDelco ($200). I am not interested in any of the high performance options at around $400. My truck will remain at stock specifications. With that said, is there any benefits in spending an extra $100 on the ACDelco option? Thanks.
 

2INSANE

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For a few dollars more, you could easily upgrade to a higher flow Flowkooler water pump. Just give them a call and tell them what you need.


Here’s a good write up on replacing the timing cover, water pump etc I did not long ago. Starts on page 5 close to the bottom. Might help you out with getting a super clean install. It it crucial to have the threads super clean and to apply a generous amount of RTV on the bolt ends. Especially on the 2 water jacket holes on driver side of the timing cover and 2 smaller holes below the harmonic balancer.

 

cucvrus

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NO. AC Delco is a market name. Many things sold by A C Delco are produced in China. I like that the emphasize Main Land China. Not some little fish head village along the Delta. But as far as I am concerned and I have worked on many I have never changed a harmonic balancer and I have friends with Corvette's from the 60's and they never had a issues with the balancers. Same principle. A cast steel weight mounted on a rubber cushion. I tried beating one off an old engine this summer and failed. Prying with my massive Snap On prybar lifted the engine. More beating and it moved a bit toward the timing cover. Some may fail but panic changing them is never going to happen here. I driven these trucks hundreds of thousands of miles and never had one fail. Can it happen? Yes. Anything can and will happen so I just repair and replace things as needed. A watchful eye on a 35 year old vehicle is standard issue. Good Luck.
 

patracy

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I've seen and replaced failed dampers. The level to which you're going to tear it down, you'd be better off replacing it if there's any doubt. Also replace the front main seal if you replace the damper. Check timing chain for stretch while it's apart as well. (Doubt it's a issue, but you're there, only take another minute to check) And I'd advise new belts and hoses while you're in there. Again, to the level you're going to tear it down, it only make sense.
 

Squibbly

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Last edited:

royalflush55

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The rubber in a GM balancer is thicker and better rubber to dampen vibration than the Dorman.
If you plan on running it a long time spend the money on the GM.
The rubber in a balancer will deteriorate with age whether it is driven or not.
 
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