This exact thing happened to me in April and then again about a month later. It comes from lug nuts working loose or not being tight enough when a tire was changed. You will need to verify the bolt holes on your tire rim are not out of round. Mine were and hence I had to do a repeat performance a month later.
Do not let the truck size nor this repair intimidate you. It did me at first. Remember, I went to the school for the mechanically declined. I can do this job in about 30 minutes now. It's quite easy. Biggest issue is to find a 3 inch spindle socket but I think some folks on here say they've used large channel locks. You will also need a ball peen hammer, then socket handle to fit the spindle socket, flat tip screwdriver, small crowbar, large punch, or similar tool.
You will need to jack the wheel up, remove the tire and rim, inspect the lug holes in the rim. If they are out of round, replace the wheel with your spare.
Place down a clean blanket or towel to place all parts on it.
Take of the axle cap (the kind pointy thing that has about 9 each 3/4 inch bolts around it).
Bend out the keeper tab off of the nut using either a screwdriver or small crowbar.
Remove the big 3" nut.
Remove the keepers and all other pieces. Try to keep everything in order so you can slap it back on quicker.
Remove Wheel drum.
Using a large punch and ball peen, hammer the old studs out. I would remove all of them cause even if they may not show obvious damage, They are probably bad no matter what they look like.
I used 2x4 to hold up the drum while I pounded the new ones in.
Reverse the assemblage. Might as well grease the bearings.
Don't crank down hard on the big nut. It is to be snug but in no way should it drag the wheel.
Bend back over the keeper tab.
Finish the assemblage and ensure your lug nuts are singing to you before you stop cranking on them. Drive a few miles and retighten the lugs. I actually cranked down on my lugs after driving it for about 10 trips.
Good luck. You can do this.
I don't know another way to do it.
