A case for mil spec battery terminals

[cranetruck]

Re: Clamps

..... Even found then with cooling fins on them!!

That must definetely have been the lowest bidder making those.

The only reason a battery terminal gets hot is when the connection is bad.

 

[cranetruck]

.....I dunno if this is really what you want. MS35000 is for the 2HN battery. MS52149 is the spec for the 6TL used in most 5-ton trucks.
So, here are both specs.
HTH,
David

The first one covers the 6TN battery also, replaced in Dec 1987 with 6TL.
The truck came from factory with 6TN types.
All good info,
Thanks.

 

[emmado22]

Everyy vehicle I saw in the Army, from humvee to M35 to 5 ton, HEMTT, PLS, M113, M2 Brad, M1 Tank, even ABLV's had the same battery terminals... Never seen any with coolling fins.. Got any pics?

 

[cranetruck]

Compare crimping, NAPA crimped with special tool and mil spec.
Assurance of quality from the counter salesman was "That ain't going nowhere". They will be installed, but I'm not terribly happy with them.

Also received the correct battery terminals.

 

[rmgill]

Tinned lead lugs that are crimp on should be pretty good. We have them like that here at work with high voltages for AC power and I have similar for low voltage DC hardware that I put together with a similar crimper. I do have longer lugs that are crimped in two places but they're good to go. If you want, add some dielectric grease to the opening and put some heat shrink on it.

 

[sprucemt]

Hey cranetruck. How many ounces are the terminals?

 

[cranetruck]

Without nuts and bolts, 4.75 oz and 6.75 with (positive), the negative about .35 oz more.

 

[gwalker]

RE: Re: Clamps

Kaiser used its own version of the mil terminal on m-715's an m-38A1's,(you can see them pictured in the respective service manuals) it was smaller and round as compared to the larger square shape of the common mil spec. I beleive it was because of the small space in the M-38A1's battery box and the way the battery hold downs fit on the 715 that made the square mil spec ones to big to safley work.(as anyone having to use them now on those applications can tell) the orignal kaiser type are almost impossible to find now, I was only able to find pos ones never found any neg ones.(or vise-versa)

 

[rujimbob]

FNG here. Thanks for the part numbers and comments here. Just drove my brand new M35A2 back from Western Washington State. Every time I've started it I have to rebuild the battery terminals on the jumper (slave) because they were melting away. Tried tightening them down, but that only helps a little. Seems my issue might be in the starter or a short somewhere.

Side note: Got my baby at auction with 5600 miles on it in "turnkey" condition. Started and drove the 500+ miles home with only the battery issue. Still has nubs on the NDT tires. I'll throw up some pics once I get them uploaded.

 

[Csm Davis]

As far as I am concerned, the best, most reliable, fool proof battery clamps I have seen are like the ones pictured below. Get the right clamp for the size of cable, and you slide the clamp nut over the cable, stick the cable in the clamp, and tighten up the nut. I prefer them since you don't have to solder or crimp them which can be hit or miss for the average guy without the right tools and equipment.

These are the ones I use on trucks and cars I plan to keep. I have used them for 15+ years and never had a failure.

Cast copper is compatible with the copper wire in the cable, but not the normal lead posts on the battery. A difference in temp coefficient can possibly create problems.
My local NAPA will crimp my cable lugs to spec, at least they say so, haven't used that service yet.

At some point you have to go from copper to lead and the terminal above will give you the largest surface area between the two different metals so should keep the heating to a minimum. I do recommend to anyone who doesn't want to spend lots of money on the terminal connectors to use the military ones they are my second choice and cost much less than the copper ones, and if done correctly will give many decades of trouble free use. Biggest problem with the military terminal clamps is operator error in the military and out, I think that there must be a specification for torque on the bolts that is to light. I can't count how many trucks that I could turn the clamps or wires by hand, most I could remove from the batteries without tools if they weren't melted inside the clamp. And after service the civilians are just as bad in the other direction over tightening until the ends of the clamp are pulled completely together and many are broken. I tell my guys to only tighten the clamp until you can't turn the terminal by hand and the cable bolts can be tightened very tight nothing should move by hand but don't deform the lead. I also have my guy's put one cable under the head of the bolt and one under the nut side if there are two, and always put the small wire ring connectors to the inside of a larger one to prevent damage to the thin copper ring. Most battery problems I have run into in service and out can be found at the terminal that someone did improperly.

 

[Csm Davis]

As to wire end termination I like the compression ends because of the ease of use, and in the field repairable and only hand tools required, no crimper or soldering tools needed. But as above any termination is only as good as the person doing it makes it. Start with clean wire and terminals and pay attention to what you are doing test fit the stripped wire in your terminal and make sure the strands of wire are straight don't just jam it in and call it good. A properly crimped termination will last along time but don't stop there add a moisture barrier either heat shrink or liquid tape or both is what I use on my compression ends. Same goes for soldered ends also, I like crimped the least, then soldered, then compression the best but any of them will give you good service if done properly.

 

[rujimbob]

So Far I've replaced:
batteries with 1000 amp heavy duty ones (which I apparently didn't need).
New 00 gauge battery wiring (guys at NAPA will build any gauge wire and terminals you want. Soldered high-current connectors for the starter, ground, slave, & solenoid wires).
Starter switch. (place I bought it from had a Radio Shack push switch installed).
Got a shiny new high-dollar charger. Used it to top off batteries.

and the starting problem got worse.... Now it won't even buzz at me when I turn on the power. (I doubt the air is full since it hasn't run in 4 days).

Went from turn-key to have fun troubleshooting in $600 and 4-easy steps. Yay me........