• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

A couple starter questions

llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
Hello all, I have a couple of questions regarding the starter on my M1008.Just over a year ago I bought a starter at a local big box store.
I was told it was the correct 24v starter, it was not, just a 12v diesel starter. Needless to say, after about a year it has burnt out. The one I bought has a life time replacement warranty, so I just have to go get a new one, but, within a year, it will go out again. My first question is this I did the 12v bypass on my glow plugs, can I used the resistor from the glow plugs to get the voltage to the starter motor down and just run a 12v line to the solenoid?. Is this doable?
2nd question, if I buy a 24v rebuild kit, will it work with the body of a 12v starter? It is a direct drive unit.
If neither of these will work, I will just go ahead and get a 24v unit and keep the 12v unit for emergency. It would get me home.

Thanks for any help/advise!
Greg
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
I'm pretty new here so take this with a grain of salt. Seems you can get a replacement starter on warranty and have already done the 12v glowplug bypass, you're already half way towards the complete 12v conversion. Unless you want to retain the 24v system to stay period correct, I don't see any reason to retain it. I wouldn't use the glowplug resistors to reduce voltage to the starter, they will not handle the current draw the starter requires and will just lead to a smoke show and possible engine fire.
I don't know enough of the differences between the 12v and 24v starters but I would suspect it's more than a rebuild. I think the windings on the armature will be different to handle the larger voltage.
I have no experience with MV as I don't have my M1008 home yet, but have been working on trucks for 30 years, in garages and at home. The civi vehicles still operate on the same principals, just differing voltages.

24v-12v conversion if you want to read through it...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?145322-CUCV-Rosscommon-24v-to-12v-Conversion
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Hello all, I have a couple of questions regarding the starter on my M1008.Just over a year ago I bought a starter at a local big box store.
I was told it was the correct 24v starter, it was not, just a 12v diesel starter. Needless to say, after about a year it has burnt out. The one I bought has a life time replacement warranty, so I just have to go get a new one, but, within a year, it will go out again. My first question is this I did the 12v bypass on my glow plugs, can I used the resistor from the glow plugs to get the voltage to the starter motor down and just run a 12v line to the solenoid?. Is this doable?
2nd question, if I buy a 24v rebuild kit, will it work with the body of a 12v starter? It is a direct drive unit.
If neither of these will work, I will just go ahead and get a 24v unit and keep the 12v unit for emergency. It would get me home.

Thanks for any help/advise!
Greg
You do have a good core for a 24 volt starter. I have never taken a starter apart and put it back together that it worked for very long afterwards. You would need all the internal parts and solenoid to do the conversion. All you are basically starting with is the shell of the starter. I had starters apart and a few times they worked. There is more to a starter then just adding parts. I see them turning down armatures and doing things with expensive equipment. But I spend about $150. for a rebuilt starter locally. Good Luck I hope everything works out. I would advise against a 12 volt conversion. But do as you like. Happy Holidays.
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
Personally, I'd replace it with the proper 24v starter.

Now, I have not tried this, but I don't see why one couldn't move the battery wire to the starter from the 24v buss to the front battery, and then bypass the starter relay under the dash so 12v from the ignition switch goes directly to the starter solenoid. However, at that point, the second alternator and battery are not doing you any good, given that you have the 12v bypass done for the glow plugs. *If* I were to do this, it would be due to expediency, not a permanent 'fix' or change.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
It has nothing to do with being period correct. How about cranking a high compression diesel over on a cold morning?
I agree, that is a definite advantage. But, isn't the only difference between these J code engines and the civilian 6.2 the emissions? I thought the civilian 6.2 was the same compression. I've driven some trucks with the 6.2 that started fine in the winter as long as they were maintained correctly. If I'm wrong I'm absolutely open to correction.
 

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
139
63
Location
western alaska
they start just fine on 12 volts started my 6.2 for years at - 20 no problems as long as my batterys were good. The 24 volt starter will draw less amps to do the same work,if you really want to make it sing use one of the new gear reduction starters. Ive seen them in both 12 and 24 volt good luck as much as I like to keep things the same a proper 12 volt conversion would be the way to go as I have seen so many failures with those ho isolated alternators used on the cucv vehicles.
 

llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
Thank you much for the help and advice. I am just going to bite the bullet and get a 24v starter. I want to keep the truck original as possible. I only did the 12v conversion on the GP to keep a cascade failure from happening. I had that issue once and didn't want to deal with it again. Overall I have always been happy with the way the truck was designed.

Thanks again!
Greg
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
There are two types of starters, the original direct drive 27MT and the gear reduction 28MT. There is a visable difference in the windings on the 27 MT between 12 and 24V starters.

I recently had several 28MTs apart for bulk rebuild session (I have many trucks with 6.2s, including a few 12V civilian) , and it seemed the windings on the 12 and 24V starters were the same or very similar, the main difference was between the cheep imported and the original Delco Remys.

The solenoids on both types of starters are different between the 12 and 24V units.

I suspect the big box store ones are 28 MT style imports.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks