a few questions!!

[pinwormfood]

hey guys, a couple of quick questions that I have searched for and came up with nothing:

1. I would like to make the rear power bar that is behind the pass seat on the wall 12 volt so i can run a few electronic devices from it. what is the easiest way. right now, it is disconnected from the 24 volt one bolted to the firewall.

2. i just blew out the drivers muffler last night....sounds awful. i was thinking about running a set of thrush or cheapie glass pack back there and wondered what else I need to complete the job, and perhaps any other piping pieces i may need. also, anyone know what size inlet/outlet to order. i can measure it once it's off, but i'd rather get the parts first and then r/r the muffler.

3. anyone running a cb radio antenna where the stock Mil antennas go....i'd like to see some pics and what kind of roadblock i may encounter. also, can you use the stock mil whips for a new cb radio??? not sure how all that works. thanks guys

 

[dragon1124]

I've read in other posts about CB that you can run a whip in the military antenna base, but you need to use an antenna tuner to match everything up so the SWR's dont get too high. I am in the process of fabricating my own mounting bracket out of sheet metal. This way I can get the ball mount for the 102" stainless steel whip going, since it's smaller then the military base bracket holes.

I dont know about the power bar on the wall behind the passenger seat, I dont think I have one. This is just my thoughts though, not sure if it'll work, but might be able to just run a cable from that bar straight to the front battery which I believe is just supplying 12v. That's how my starter is hooked up for now, 12v starter hooked up straight to front battery.

 

[mistaken1]

One of the buses is connected to ground. You can connect the other bus to the front battery positive or back battery negative (same point electrically as evidenced by the short wire connecting these two posts) to get 12V at the radio buses. I highly recommend fusing the positive lead at the battery to protect the conductors.

I left the stock bus at 24V and added a third 12V bus.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/51076-amateur-radio-m1009.html#post581933

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/51076-amateur-radio-m1009.html#post581952




You can tune a MX6707 to work with a CB or you can buy a SWR meter and an antenna tuner and use almost any antenna you want with the CB.

Here are the instructions for tuning the MX6707 to work in the CB frequencies.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/military-radios-other-electronics/56242-antenna.html#post654481

Here is how I mounted standard commercial antennas on NMO mounts.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/52126-whip-antenna.html#post595178

 

[dragon1124]

Beautiful setup there mistaken1, I want to do that, but dont have the power connectors in the cab where the radio mount should be. If you would be so kind, would you pm me how you set up the extra connectors, and where you acquired it from?

 

[wallew]

Let's not forget our convoy lights gentlemen.

I've been collecting pix and came across one on a GL auction on a truck NEXT to the vehicle in the auction. They mounted the yellow spinning light on a retractable light pole. MOUNTED TO THE ANTENNA BRACKET. Slickest thing I've ever seen.

View attachment 201781

Take a look at the M1009 to the right of the M1031 maintenance truck.

 

[Midnight Rider]

I replaced my mufflers recently with Cherry Bomb glasspacks. I think I still have the box, I'll look and see what size it was.

I will mention that I did get the right size, but the pipes were so rusted that I had to take a grinder to smooth them out to get the mufflers fastened on completely. It ended up being easier to remove the pipe from the manifold and then run a grinder over it and put it all back together. Before I did that the driver's side muffler popped loose and was hanging by the brackets. Man it was loud without that pipe.

We also had to use a cutting torch to get the original mufflers off, so I had to cut back quite a bit of pipe on mine.

 

[mistaken1]

Beautiful setup there mistaken1, I want to do that, but dont have the power connectors in the cab where the radio mount should be. If you would be so kind, would you pm me how you set up the extra connectors, and where you acquired it from?

Not beautiful but it works. Thank you.

The buses on the side wall are the original military 24V buses.

For the new 12V bus I used a electrical power panel neutral bar kit. The neutral bar kits include the standoff mounting brackets to isolate the bus from the mounting surface and have a lug for a large wire whereas the bus itself will accept #14 to #6 conductors. Like this:

Product Details

I made the cover out of some nonconductive plastic square tubing I had. You can use the same type of bus for your ground bus if you do not have one.

Connect a #6 or bigger wire to the battery terminal and run it to a fuse block as close to the battery as practical then back to your new bus. Something like this (you can find these at wally world in the car audio section):

Fuse Block, 60A, In Line, Covered, MAXI - Fuse Blocks - Fuses - Electrical : Grainger Industrial Supply

or this if you use a larger wire:

0298100. Fuses - MEGA Slo-Blo 32V Automotive Bolt-Down Fuse - Littelfuse

You can use the ground bus that is on the firewall to terminate your negative feed back to radio location rather than taking it to the battery.

 

[pinwormfood]

man, you guys are great and thanks for the help thus far. I am starting the project now. I picked up a (6707?) tunable base and whip at the broadheadsville, pa show on friday. Also figured out on my own what wires go to where concerning those two BUS panels behind my passenger seat sidewall (one hot and one ground). what gauge wire is that coming to those panels? is that 6 ga? i am asking because i would like to know what size inline fuse to get. thanks fellas....

 

[Midnight Rider]

Here's the size of Cherry Bomb mufflers I got. They were actually shorter than what I really needed, but I made them work. My exhaust on my 1009 now exits in front of the rear wheels.


Edit: That photo turned out smaller than I thought. It is a 2.5" inlet size. 2.25" outlet, and it's 25 13/16" long.
The outlet size isn't important unless you are using the stock exhaust after the muffler. I went with a different setup.

 

[pinwormfood]

OH, and guys, what cables do you use to go from the adj. base to your cb? what cables am I going to have to hook up to the base, besides the one (coax??) that goes from the cb to the base.....sorry for being so lost, but this is my first time ever doing something like this....i appreciate the help!

 

[pinwormfood]

My exhaust on my 1009 now exits in front of the rear wheels.


do you have any problems with exhaust fumes...i know mine exit behind the wheel and with the endgate window down..it gets pretty bad in there.....

 

[Midnight Rider]

My exhaust on my 1009 now exits in front of the rear wheels.


do you have any problems with exhaust fumes...i know mine exit behind the wheel and with the endgate window down..it gets pretty bad in there.....

Before I got it completely sealed up it was a little fumey in the cab.

But ya, with the rear window down, everything gets sucked into the cab. Most of my interior is coated with a fine layering of rock dust now because of the roads I travel everyday. I usually drive with the rear window up now.

I don't think there is a way to run the exhaust on the 1009 so that it doesn't suck fumes in when the rear window is down.

If the rear is up, no fumes come in though. If I do have the rear window down, I make sure I have other windows down as well. I plan on putting in a power rear window sometime.