A2 Drive Shafts & Body Harness for 4l80

[erasedhammer]

I was looking through the TM's and found the drive shaft parts list but it did not specify whether it was A1 or A2 shafts. Anyone know the NSNs for the longer front shaft and the shorter rear shaft for the 4l80?

Also I found a A2 body harness (expensive) and I was wondering if it is possible to only use the transmission part of the harness and cut off the other parts.
I think I would need part of the a2 engine harness for the engine speed sensor? But do I really need to replace my existing a1 harness that leads to the lights and hood?

View attachment TM-9-2320-280-24P-1.pdf

 

[Action]

so, you are saying you want to buy the correct harness, then cut it up? Why not just do it the correct way and replace the entire harness? you will have a lot less trouble.

 

[erasedhammer]

so, you are saying you want to buy the correct harness, then cut it up? Why not just do it the correct way and replace the entire harness? you will have a lot less trouble.

I didn't realize that it would be easier, I'm just thinking of how difficult it would be to trace and remove the wire and route a new one, but I wouldn't mind replacing the entire thing.

 

[snowtrac nome]

As I remember right the engine harness runs up the top of the trans to the ess, which I think is different than the steice sensor used in the 3 speed models, and a few wires to the tps Mounted on the side of the injector pump. there aren't all that many wires on the engine there are a few on the transmission they all go to one or two plugs on the transmission. The most work involved is going be the installation of the tps, on your 3 speed pump good luck.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

There is a butt load of new wires in the A2 harness. You have the TCM connector, the relay , the circuit breaker, the Trans lock light , the check trans light.
After spending that much money for a harness why the **** would you chop off part of it.
By easier to replace the whole harness I think he means easier in the long run.
By far the easiest way to get to it to remove it is to separate the body from the frame.
Once that is done . Everything is easier to work on. And if your planning on swapping engines and trans and drive shafts and what ever that's the time to do it.

 

[erasedhammer]

There is a butt load of new wires in the A2 harness. You have the TCM connector, the relay , the circuit breaker, the Trans lock light , the check trans light.
After spending that much money for a harness why the **** would you chop off part of it.
By easier to replace the whole harness I think he means easier in the long run.
By far the easiest way to get to it to remove it is to separate the body from the frame.
Once that is done . Everything is easier to work on. And if your planning on swapping engines and trans and drive shafts and what ever that's the time to do it.

Believe me, if I could take the body off, I would. I don't have the equipment or space to do something like that.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

I put it off for a long time then bit the bullet.
Send Retired War Horse a PM maybe he can walk you through how he replaces the main body harness with the body still on.
The hardest part I see would be the section of harness that is hidden in body down the inside of the drivers side rail.
It is held in by 4-5 rubber covered straps.
They are held in place by only 1 screw that is accessible from under truck looking up.
The top of the strap is held in place by the channel the wire runs in.
With the body on you will be working blind so to speak.
That and you will have about 20 feet of wiring like spaghetti.

Now that I've seen how it was attached and run I think it is possible without separating but a pain.
Are you planning on using the factory TCM ?
If not you can run an aftermarket controller far less headache but not factory.

 

[erasedhammer]

I put it off for a long time then bit the bullet.
Send Retired War Horse a PM maybe he can walk you through how he replaces the main body harness with the body still on.
The hardest part I see would be the section of harness that is hidden in body down the inside of the drivers side rail.
It is held in by 4-5 rubber covered straps.
They are held in place by only 1 screw that is accessible from under truck looking up.
The top of the strap is held in place by the channel the wire runs in.
With the body on you will be working blind so to speak.
That and you will have about 20 feet of wiring like spaghetti.

Now that I've seen how it was attached and run I think it is possible without separating but a pain.
Are you planning on using the factory TCM ?
If not you can run an aftermarket controller far less headache but not factory.

I went with the military TCM as I wanted to stay as close as I can to OEM parts.

 

[snowtrac nome]

remember the military tcm is 12 volts and only hooks to one battery

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Both aftermarket and military TCM are 12 volts.
If using the factory harness and military TCM along with the wiring diagram shown above in the TM kind of hard to F it up

 

[erasedhammer]

remember the military tcm is 12 volts and only hooks to one battery

Yep, I already have a connection and breaker set up in the battery compartment for my own electronics and radio.

 

[Wire Fox]

I'm with the rest of the group and think that buying an A2 harness just to cut off the parts you don't need is kinda crazy; however, I'm of the camp that thinks it's wise to buy the wire and new connectors to build a second harness to route and add-in the 4L80E and military TCM. I'm personally going to be doing that with a mix of following some online write-ups I've seen and hitting the wiring diagrams found in the back of the third volume of the maintenance TM.

Now, no one here has touched on those drive shafts. I looked in the TM and saw in the notes that it says what transfer case it should be used with. 12447125 turned up the NP 242 AMG T/C, so that would be our A2 configuration. That means we should be looking for the following parts:

FRONT:

Item No	NSN	P/N	Desc.	Qty
1	5340011900807	2-70-59	STRAP,RETAINING	2
2	5306011905760	231401	BOLT,SELF-LOCKING 1/4 28 X .62	4
13	5306014651564	EC12339050	BOLT,U	2
16	2520013575043	5935394	PROPELLER SHAFT	1

REAR:

No.	NSN	P/N	Desc.	Qty
18	2520014590050	6007749	PROPELLER SHAFT WIT	1

There of course may be other small items, but I just listed the things that explicitly stated they were for the NP 242 AMG T/C. The important items are assembly 16 for the front and assembly 18 for the rear, as these are the NSNs that cover the propeller shafts and most components that are going to be turning with the shafts.

EDIT: Wrong part for rear! It's now updated! There's also still some confusion about which it is, as the drawing shows assembly 18 is for HMMWVs with the NP242 AMG, but there's still three choices... I'm unsure of what's what. The P/N I listed looks like it's for "WHEN KIT P/N 57K3498 IS INSTALLED", which in-turn seems to be a "TRANSFER CASE CONVERSION KIT." ...I personally think that was just the specific P/N assigned for when units converted to the NP 242 AMG when their HMMWV was originally fitted with an NP 218-same hardware, different numbers. I could be wrong.

 

[Lionel]

Augi did a good write up on building the needed (extra) harness. Soon as I can find it, I'll post a link.

 

[Lionel]

Here it is.

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=221765&hilit=4l80

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Believe me, if I could take the body off, I would. I don't have the equipment or space to do something like that.

You don't need to pull the body.....

 

[Action]

there is only one big connection to the TCM with lots of wires. It is a GM computer inside the box.
Yould could always just jack the body up high enough to access the harness if you dont want to fish it through.