MaverickH1
Member
- 345
- 6
- 18
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
My wife drove the M1123 for the first time today, which means I got to follow this truck for the first time today. Let me just state the obvious and say WOW it's a cool looking truck. It's funny how much different they look when they're actually on the road. Also, she loved driving it.
What this also means is that I was able to see very clearly that the brake lights were no longer working. It was working as late as January, but not now.
Coming out and playing with it, it seemed like it was just out of adjustment. No problem, I followed the TM and attempted to adjust it to work properly. No dice. It was as if it needed to be adjusted beyond the adjustment slots available. I decided to add spacers via washers to increase the distance from the pedal linkage to the linkage on the switch. This worked well for the continuity test. I adjusted it perfectly so that continuity on 75B and 75A indicated a closed circuit just past the initial play of the brake pedal.
However, when putting the wires back together everything was inoperable. But... when I push on the pedal with my foot and reach down and push the switch linkage a little, I get full brake lights. I pulled it apart and started tracing voltages. Everything checked fine. I had my wife come out and check to see if the lights were dim. Turns out they were before I manually activated it with my hand.
So in summary... I believe the continuity test is passing the switch and the adjustment... and the voltage tests are passing everything... but there must be something internally that does not allow full amperage to be transferred due to weak contact.
I thought maybe something downstream was playing a role... like wire 75A ends up carrying the current back to the main light switch which gets rerouted to a neutral position box or something according to the wiring diagrams... but to me none of that would be suspect if I can manually manipulate the stop lamp switch to work.
Has anyone messed with these switches? Can anyone find a fault in my logic that the switch is in fact bad and needs to be replaced?
Thank you!
What this also means is that I was able to see very clearly that the brake lights were no longer working. It was working as late as January, but not now.
Coming out and playing with it, it seemed like it was just out of adjustment. No problem, I followed the TM and attempted to adjust it to work properly. No dice. It was as if it needed to be adjusted beyond the adjustment slots available. I decided to add spacers via washers to increase the distance from the pedal linkage to the linkage on the switch. This worked well for the continuity test. I adjusted it perfectly so that continuity on 75B and 75A indicated a closed circuit just past the initial play of the brake pedal.
However, when putting the wires back together everything was inoperable. But... when I push on the pedal with my foot and reach down and push the switch linkage a little, I get full brake lights. I pulled it apart and started tracing voltages. Everything checked fine. I had my wife come out and check to see if the lights were dim. Turns out they were before I manually activated it with my hand.
So in summary... I believe the continuity test is passing the switch and the adjustment... and the voltage tests are passing everything... but there must be something internally that does not allow full amperage to be transferred due to weak contact.
I thought maybe something downstream was playing a role... like wire 75A ends up carrying the current back to the main light switch which gets rerouted to a neutral position box or something according to the wiring diagrams... but to me none of that would be suspect if I can manually manipulate the stop lamp switch to work.
Has anyone messed with these switches? Can anyone find a fault in my logic that the switch is in fact bad and needs to be replaced?
Thank you!