A2 run-flat wheel conversion kit

[DawGoneIt]

Dunno if I worded the title right. My buddy showed me a screenshot printout of some surplus tires that are available for screening by govt programs. These are Goodyear Wranglers of the run-flat variety (should have kept a copy). The printout also said that there was was kit that could be ordered to convert to the more up to date (runflats?). We were puzzling over this as the HUMVEE I have at work has run-flat tires and I want to convert these to the non-run flat type tire in the future.

Anybody on this forum go through this conversion process? I'm sure there are a few out there. i am a nooby on this forum. I manage a salmon hatchery in the Mts (on the Klickitat River) and we recently got our hands on a surplussed M998 hummer. We want to put this vehicle to work like we did two M1008's last year.

Appreciate any info.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Personally, I think the easiest way to convert your tires/rims to non-runflat is by using the PVC inserts that a lot of the off-road guys run. They are stout and lightweight. Here's one company that makes/sells them: Hummer Wheel PVC Insert

 

[DawGoneIt]

I will follow up on that suggestion. Appreciate the reply!

 

[actionpaintball]

The PVC inserts will just give you the beadlock function, not the runflat. There have been various versions of the runflat inserts for bias and radial tires. The early one were a magnesium alloy clamsheel insert, and the newer ones I have seen are all rubber. They make one piece and two piece rubber inserts and some have additional spacers (rings) to use based on the tire type (bias versus radial)...but everything has been radial for a while in the 37" tire size versus the older 36" tires.

I have the full bealock/runflat on my HMMWV, but use a modified insert with the runflat portion cut off for my off road only Jeep; you want the tire to flex a little more under lower pressure when on the rocks.

I think the only way to go if you want a true runflat is to get OEM HMMWV assemblies.

The runflat has nothing to do with the tire...it's the insert. I have ran the goodyears on the stock wheel for thousands of miles with no insert inside (no beadlock and no runflat) with zero problems. There is some argument that the 16.5" wheel bead seating area is not as robust and its easier to unseat the tire bead without the pinching force of a beadlock, but I have had no problems.

To answer your question: you want to remove the runflat function?
1. Just remove the whole insert
2. PVC aftermarket is an option
3. Cut down your existing inserts to just keep the inner beadlock ring (large bandaw works good).

 

[DawGoneIt]

@actionpaintball: if you were going to use the vehicle off road 99% of the time, would you leave the runflat in the wheel alone? We plan on using the M998 around the hatchery complex (all off road), but there may be times in cold weather when it will be used to climb steep terrain in wooded terrain. Can't say for sure if a little rock climbing might be in store as well. Thoughts?

I'm just wondering if its best to leave the rims alone for now.

 

[actionpaintball]

I would probably just hem them alone and keep the regular tire pressure. You would only have problems if you "aired down" your tires and they started flexing.

Keep it simple

 

[Augi]

Runflats saved my ass in Death Valley last year... I'm keeping them

 

[quickfarms]

There are advantages to running runflats, the spare is not required, and there are advantages to removing them and using a spacer, you can air the tires down.

The decision should be based on where, how and what the vehicle is used for.

 

[Augi]

There are advantages to running runflats, the spare is not required, and there are advantages to removing them and using a spacer, you can air the tires down.

The decision should be based on where, how and what the vehicle is used for.

Uhhhh a spare is most definitely still required. Runflats will get you maybe 30 miles on pavement or 3-5 miles on nicely graded dirt if you are lucky before the tire completely disintegrates. Once that happens you can try to cut away the remaining tread and continue, but "continue" means 5-10mph. The ride gets pretty bumpy It's hard on the suspension and probably hard on the diff too, due to the constant speed differential between the aired tire and the flat one.

What they do for you is allow you to maintain control of the vehicle until you can get to a good spot to change to the spare. Ex: I got a flat on a steep narrow switchbacked dirt road and I drove a couple miles to a nice flat turnout to change the tire. We were only traveling 15 or 20 mph anyway and you could hardly tell the difference.

You can still air the tires down to 5-7psi no problem depending on the terrain. In rocky stuff where you have point contacts, the tire may get pushed into the runflat as you go over something, but in sand and loose dirt it'll be fine. The bigger problem is sidewall damage because the bulge is so wide at low pressure.

Augi

 

[DawGoneIt]

I'm convinced to leave em alone. The Humvee isn't going to go too far outside of a 35 mile range. I appreciate y''alls comments. Good to talk to folks who like these machines!