About My MEP-002A

[johncarrol]

I recently purchased a MEP-002A that I would like to run my house in a power outage and have a few questions. The manual states to adjust to 61.5Hz no load, I guess because it drops a bit under load to around 60. What is the high and low limit, or in other words a safe range for the Hz and 240 voltage to be kept at before damage could be done powering my house? The cheap generators I've used had no adjustments, but I was always careful by turning off my water heater and using only enough power for the furnace and lights in an outage so not to overload the generator. I tried the 002A giving it about 8,000 watts load - well pump running and a 5,500 watt water heater on, and the ammeter reads 100%. Is it ok to think that I can use the 002A safely in a power outage and keep the water heater on, plus a TV and some lights? What is the procedure to zero the ammeter? Running with no load or shut off? When I connect the starting batteries, I notice a spark at the terminal. Is this normal? If not, What should I look for? Shouldn't the battery voltage gauge read voltage when the generator switch is turned to the on position and the fuel pumps are running before the engine is started? Mine only reads voltage when the engine is running and pegs after the batteries are disconnected. I'm a little concerned as I plan to start it most of the time with a slave cable, and am worried that I may need to keep the slave cable or batteries connected so not to fry the generators charging system when it's running.

 

[Scoobyshep]

As the load is applied the motor will slow and the frequency will drop. These days the frequency is only hard on things containing motors. Sounds like you are within the amp range (might want to check with a proper ammeter as the on board units are not the most accurate).

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Chainbreaker]

Yes, its normal for the batteries to emit a small spark when connecting them after they have been disconnected. There are several capacitors in the electronics (voltage regulator, etc.) that will draw a small current to recharge them when connecting up the batteries.

Best to invest in a Kill-A-Watt meter (~$30) and plug into the convenience outlet to verify hertz and voltage. I check, and adjust if necessary, after unit has warmed up a few minutes and settled in. Then take your Kill-A-Watt meter into your house and plug into an outlet and you can conveniently monitor it from kitchen or wherever you want and watch the droop with various loads applied.

No, you will not show battery condition from the battery meter until unit is running. DO NOT ever disconnect the batteries with unit running. You will damage the charging circuit. The unit requires (2) MT-51 batteries that are of same age and condition.

Also, when you are running your genset loaded and its warm ambient temperature outside you should verify that the cooling louvers are opening once the unit warms up. The larger the load and warmer it gets the further they open. In winter they remain near closed to keep the cylinders warm to allow complete combustion. Also, never run the unit with the "Close to Run" cover open unless you have to have it open briefly to troubleshoot something underneath it.

Assuming your unit is properly maintained (good oil and filter, clean air cleaner, good fuel, etc.) it is safe to run unit at 100% load and up to 125% briefly. During an extended outage you might consider that if you have an adjustable water heater setting turning it down to a lower setting (if provided) to give you more margin for other loads that may kick in simultaneously.

You need to download the TM's and read them to become familiar with your unit.

 

[doghead]

Never disconnect the batteries when it is running.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Also, here is a handbook (MIL-STD-633E-10 22 February 1980) that provides operational specs for various generators including the MEP-002a.

You will find the MEP-002a beginning on printed pg 55 (PDF pg 61).

 

[Guyfang]

All the info written above is GOOD info.

Below, is Chainbreaker's statement. You ignore it at your own risk.
99.99% percent of your questions are answered by reading the TM's.

You need to download the TM's and read them to become familiar with your unit.

 

[johncarrol]

Thank you all so very much! This MEP-002a started as an investment-"OK a new toy" I really didn't need. I saw it in a field, was told it ran properly approx. a year ago, and negotiated a fair price for a under 700 hours "running" 002A with its M116A2 trailer. I got it home and after discovering it was locked up and I had to dump mud and what was left of the air filter out of the housing, I got a bad feeling about buying it. I finally got it back into service without too much expense and trouble and decided to post in this forum, after reading and using the TMs, any additional Questions I may have. I was first concerned with shutter operation. I cleaned and made sure the components were functional, but noticed they barely opened with outside air temp around 40F running approx. 1/2 hr. But with a load at around 70F they opened 1/2 way. I have some-OK "very limited" electrical knowledge, but enough to buy a Kill-a Watt meter years ago. It was a valuable tool as you have stated to use with this generator. I had to replace the dead frequency meter, but verified the generator putting out 60Hz with the Kill-a Watt. I guess I can use a digital AC volt meter to dial in the generators AC volt meter at 240 volts, but to zero the amp meter, do I do it with the generator off, or running without a load? As far as the batteries, For the Winter season, I plan to keep the batteries attached, but the rest of the year, I will use a slave cable hooked to my HMMWV. I guess as long as I keep the slave cable attached while the generator is running, it should not hurt its charging system. I ran it briefly without the batteries before I read this reply. I hope I didn't hurt anything. I will check today. Again, thanks for sharing the knowledge!

 

[glcaines]

Why not leave the batteries installed all year with a battery tender attached when the generator is not being used? Your batteries will last longer if a battery tender is used.

 

[Guyfang]

According to the TM, zeroing the meters is done in the off position. And you just turn the plastic screw one way or the other to bring the needle to the zero position. I would not worry too much about zeroing the Amp meter. The meters are not all that accurate to begin with, so don't go overboard.

 

[johncarrol]

To answer your battery question, I'm a Cheapskate. I can't see spending the money for not 1, but 2 new batteries dedicated for a generator that I may never need, especially for a military one that I can plug into my HMMWV to start when I want to use it. During the Winter months, I can use 2 batteries from vehicles I don't use during the Winter in the generator parked beside my house, With wife's approval, as a standby ready for a Winter power outage. This also justifies the expense of me purchasing a slave cable - cheaper than 2 batteries and will last forever. To follow up A previous question, After the initial power drain when the batteries are connected, will the non running generator continue to drain the batteries when left connected? I was always afraid to leave them connected.