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AC generator plus inverter to start deuce

devilman96

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WHHOOOooooo Horsey.... Some confusion needs to be cleared up here before any one can help and I think ya got 10 to many things going on at once...

First...

Ditto on what Mike said... batteries in pairs only, meaning to exactly the same and bought at the same time... and stop using your truck to jump start the deuce or you will be buying a alternator and battery for that soon too... Also, the biggest battery you can find in Pep Boys with 900 CCA (proably a group 30) is not necessary going to work very well in a Deuce, especially not during a PA winter spinning a 22:1 ratio diesel. I am not saying it will not work, im just saying there are better things to be had that ya might wanna consider.

Second...

You have a charging system that is not charging???... OR by the battery count with shorted cells a charging system that is OVER charging???... OR you've been over charging the batteries with a battery charger???... Or your flat lining them by discharging them to much???... You need to get your alternator tested by a qualified shop for several reasons... If that is your problem it could fix everything... if it is not then you stand a good chance of screwing up your newly repaired / rebuilt alternator when you hook it back up. Make sure you tell the shop that you have a current draw and that you need to know what is going on with the repairs.

Third...

Current draw when in the off position... A bad diode in the alternator?... The shop testing it will rule this out... A bad wiring scenario... Again this could screw up your newly repaired/ tested alternator... For some this would be easy but for the majority this would be a daunting task to sort out. If you are going to trouble shoot this yourself make SURE you only have the batteries connected when needed and only hook the alternator back up when you figure it out... Make sure you have to right tools, volt meter, test light, jumpers, etc and make sure you give yourself a crash course on learning how to read them properly...

Fourth... maybe....

You now have a bad solenoid? Alternators don't have solenoids... Starters do... Which you will not find in pep boys and proably needs to be changed by a shop. But if the truck started right up when jumped... How is the solenoid bad? Or were you bypassing it? Im confused by this...

Its is easily possible to keep chasing the same problem over and over getting something fixed and then screwing it up again by only having fixed a consequence of the problem rather than the problem its self. Again I am going to lean towards a new harness install, this can save you soooo much heart ache especally having new lables!!! and with the exception of fighting with the dash is not at ALL hard to do...

Be mindful of what you are messing with... 24V is not a lot of juice but it is a lot of amperage, I have seen guys gets seriously screwed up by batteries and jumping wires and cables around. A short will burn the hell out of you with melted wire, plastic, or metal from a post or cable lead and if they were to explode (had it happen personally) acid does wonders for the eyes, skin, etc... Not to mention the mess it creates of your truck and anything else it comes into contact with.

There are guys here in the Philadelphia area... It may be possible to enlist some help, do some trading, buy some fuel, lunch and beer, flat out pay for time, etc and get your self some help over for a Saturday afternoon version of "This Ole Truck".
 

mangus580

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Daman, FYI, I use the biggest CCA Batteries from Tractor Supply, and have for 2 years Now. they seem to be the Same as what he is talking about. Remember the 6TL is only 600 CCA.
 

da-beast

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Ok I went out and got two of the exact same batteries 900CCA. I dont plan on driving it during the winter if the truck is too cold to start I dont want to be in there anyway since the heater still needs work. As of tonight it starts right up with no apparent problems. I put a giant alagator clip on one of the terminals because pepboys did not have a battery dissconect, can you believe that. So untill I order one...
It looks like it is charging ok, the needle is where it should be. Although knowing my luck that will be the next thing to go. The alternator has already been swapped once because I thought that was the problem. In reality it was the old batteries that came with the truck but I dident know anything about batteries then. So I had the alternator bench tested before it was installed and it was good, since it was new out of the box it better be. Could the bad batts have screwed something up? For right now I am just looking for suggestions. Next week it is getting new tires mounted and finially inspected so that will eat most of my time. I guess after that I will have to track down my drain. If there is someone in the philly area thats willing to help I am willing to accept the offer.
 

mangus580

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Did you actually measure and find a draw on the system?

Also, when you did your first battery replacement, was that both or just one you replaced at that time?
 

houdel

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Chase, MI
Agreed. You need TWO batteries of approximately same age/condition in order to properly charge both batteries in a series connection. Don't know what you pay for batteries, I can get NEW Interstate U6TLs for $105 each, others have got the same for as low as $95, blems; when available (mechanically perfect, but a cosmetic defect in the case) can be had for as low as $35. Stay away from NAPA, they want $165-$175 fot the same U6TL, only difference is the solid gold NAPA nameplate!
 

devilman96

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600??? Really... Opps sorry... I must of had the numbers from the gel 6TL's stuck in my head or was doubling the numbers... I was thinking 1200 each for some reason... Retarded as usual...

Geesh and I was disappointed because I only had managed 1900CCA with my battery set up... *feeling much better now*
 

DDoyle

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,825
80
48
Location
West Tennessee
Kevin,
Sorry to be late chiming in here - but hopefully this will help. First, there are Leece-Neville, and Prestoliite alternators. I am not aware of a "design flaw" with either, but the Prestolite (fan near center of length of unit) is very difficult to obtain parts for.

In my opinion, the first step would be to trace the wiring. Does your truck have a starter relay? (mounts to the side of the block, remote from the starter - for the skeptics, don't laugh - I have a deuce the military removed the solenoid on - the push button switch on the dash now directly pulls the starter in).

How much experience have you had with this truck? Please don't be offended - but if you have significant experience, does it "sound" right when running? If not, does it have an unusual whine? The starter can stay stuck in the "pulled in" position - particularly if you don't have a starter relay - and hence a continous battery drain. If this is the case, you hear the whine of the starter over-revving while the truck is running. Chris, Jeff Symanski and I have all been eyewitness to this.

Hope this helps,
David Doyle
 

da-beast

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Thank you everyone for your input, its much appreciated. This is the first time I have replaced both batteries at the same time. I'm sure that was contributing to my problem. I still think there is a draw somewhere, even if the batteries were not charging a new one would not be dead overnight after starting the truck only once, right? I will take a volt meter to it next week and let you guys know how it works out.
As far as the starter sticking I don't think that's the problem it sounds correct when its running. I will have to check if there is a starter relay.
The batteries I got were two bosch with 900 CCA the truck starts instantly with very little cranking. It used to take 10 seconds or so for it to turn over.
 

cbvet

Active member
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Location
Northwest (Knox) Indiana
M35 with generator, M35A2 & M813A1 with alternators all sit for a couple of months at a time with no problems.
If you don't have the expertise or time to find & correct the problem, use a simple battery disconnect switch.
Eric
CBVET
 
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