AC mod to shop van bodies

[Opie]

I've ordered a 5000 BTU 110v window unit that is 20" wide by 12" high by 15" deep with thoughts of installing it in the window over the truck cab on a temporary basis. The purpose is to keep a chilly "on deck" area in which to keep the completed arrangements awaiting delivery (and so the delivery drivers can stay the heck out of the mayhem of the tiny shop).

If you have any thoughts on how to mount such a beast in the window or some of those "quality" digital pics from GL that look like they were taken by a spy satellite of such an arrangement, would you let me know?

In the same vein, what sort of experience does the SS Board of Knowledge have of the "2.1/1.5kw Generator, Gas Powered" which Coleman's has here:
http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Colemans.storefront/en/product/240101

Overkill for AC and lights in the truck on occasion, but the prices seem pretty good...

 

[Opie]

This old coot is getting too lazy to do his own !@#$ research.

As found five minutes ago on GL:

 

[OPCOM]

I did something similar. I'd like to point out certain attachment methods to make sure the unit does not fall out of the hole and into the cab.

picture 1 - this shows large self tapping sheetmetal screws, 2 on each side, securing the cabinet to the shelter sill.

picture 2 - this shows the use of a 1x1 angle iron ans screws going up through the a/c case into it, and the angle iron holds the top of the unit from tilting outwards.

picture 3 - this shows the window was bigger than the a/c, so it was slid against one side of the sill, and an angle fastened to the side of the case, and to the wall to the right.

picture 4 - shows the job. the open window was closed off with sheetmetal and foam block.

These are the minimum you should consider when mounting something so heavy. You may have to do it slightly different due to the construction of your walls, but the goal is to keep the a/c most rigidly in place.

Find the center of gravity and place that on the hatch sill.

5000 BTU might be ok up there, but you get a 100 degree day and it aint gonna cut the beans! 8000 BTU keeps the S-280 shelter 80 degrees when it is 100 outside in the direct sun, if the door is kept shut. I am adding 12000 more BTU.

I learned these things:
tilt the a/c's rear end down substantially more than you would in a house, If the truck is not level or is parked up-hill slightly, water (condensate) will back up on ya and spill inside the room. I would say the rear should be 1" lower than the front, minimum, and more like 1.5" if it is a deep unit 15" deep or more. The a/c unit is designed to let some water collect in the condensate tray, and when it gets deep enough, it flows through a channel into the rear of the unit where it can be slung onto the condesing coil. If you d get water piling up in the evaporator condensate tray and overflowing and can't tilt the unit back, then you can drill carefully through the bottom of the tray and install a brass fitting with sone sealer and attach a hose to drain the condensate out. That is what I did. It is not shown in the done picture. It is shown in the hose picture.

 

[Opie]

You're the Man, Patrick! Thank you! I'll keep you posted on how the project turns out.

 

[Recovry4x4]

As far as the genset, I've used one to power the 5000 BTU window shaker in my S318 shelter. It runs the a/c just fine. If you run it off a jerry can you can squeeze 8 hrs of run time. Starting the genset is never easy as they have the wrap and hope starting system. I almost always used ether to get a quicker start.