Adjusting valve on a dodge flat head

[Floridianson]

17-21 inches is the range a engine vacuum should be in.
I got a steady 20inches vacuum ( at sea level ) after re-setting tappets and adjusting carb idle/air screw. I also adjusted my timing with a vacuum gauge which ended up being about 3-4 degrees BTDC ( again sea level ). One of the Change Orders also calls for resetting the timing from 2 degrees ATDC to 2 degrees BTDC that alone made a big difference on the vacuum needle flutter. This set up worked great on my M37 and my WC21.

Vacuum gage is old school and it works. They say the old guys always had one in there tool box and used it often. Yea not only the valves but the timing and so much more as you said. After I built my 502 in my boat my son and I took it out with a vacuum gage. With the boat in gear going forward but at idle throttle and him steering straight I adjusted the timing to the highest vacuum. The book called for 36* but I got the highest reading at around 38* and the boat run great with steady vacuum reading. Think I need to do my valves as I have some flutter on the gage Thanks http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/05/check-your-engines-health-with-a-vacuum-gauge/

 

[Floridianson]

Found my long tappet wrenches and the feeler gage. Looks like plenty of room with just the inner fender removed do not see how taking the whole outer fender would help at all. I already had the front axle down to the spindle for bearing repack and slave cylinder replace. Yea the fuel pump makes it a little tight but with correct wrenches and extra long offset gages no problem. As for the rear two vacuum lines to take off and cap and no problem. I am going with 15 thousands and see if I can steady the vacuum gage and a pair of gloves.

 

[Floridianson]

Getting ready to do mine and I am sure Charles know more about the M37 than I ever will. I would like to see someone that did it his way and then hook up a vacuum gage. If the gage runs steady then no problem but if is bouncing just a little then as our member said 15 thousands is correct set hot when running. I see that doing them running is going to be a pain in the butt or maybe the hand but a vacuum gage does not lie. Sometimes what we think is running great can be adjusted to be a little better.
Ok to add to this post got all the parts, new fuel pump, wheel cylinder so I got her put back together. Hooked up the vacuum gage and let here warm up. Adjusted the idle air screw and timing got a pretty steady 21 /22 on the vacuum gage. I was so glad to get it back on her feet just had to take it for a drive. No valve ping on my advancing the timing. I need to bleed all four brakes not just the one I replaced but she is stopping for my one mile ride. You do not need a timing light to set the timing you need a vacuum gage and if you do not have a steady vacuum do your valves while running is my .02. I will do my valves here soon as soon as I get the brakes up to par.