Trango
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You mean "generator". 
Mine was 60 as well...
Mine was 60 as well...
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Adv. Methods of Temp Control
- Thread starter FSBruva
- Start date
rdixiemiller
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You would only need the fan in stop and go traffic, or when idling for long periods (like when using a knuckleboom). At speeds over about 15-20 mph, you will have enough air flow across the radiator to keep things cool. A viscous clutch lets the fan mostly freewheel, until the air coming off the radiator heats the clutch sensor past a certain temp. Then the clutch engages and spools the fan up to pull some more air. Detroit switched mostly to electric fans when transverse mounted engines bacame the norm. They are remarkably cheap, and only rob system power when needed. If you use a temperature control switch installed in the thermostat housing outlet, you won't even need to think about it. That will probably be one of my first mods when I get an engine in my truck, that is, when I get it home and put an engine in............
Sigh..........Not enough hours in a day, or days in a week.
Bjorn and Longhunter
Since the two of you use winter covers a lot, what do you find is the best operating temperature for your trucks? I would assume 180-190 would be about right, but I know what happens when you assume something!
Sigh..........Not enough hours in a day, or days in a week.
Bjorn and Longhunter
Since the two of you use winter covers a lot, what do you find is the best operating temperature for your trucks? I would assume 180-190 would be about right, but I know what happens when you assume something!
Longhunter7
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RDM,
The perfect temp. range will be between 180 and 195 degrees! You don't want things getting above 200 degrees, or you might have a problem!
I watch all my gauges much more closely when driving my Deuce, than any other truck I drive! Old trucks need more TLC. [
]
The perfect temp. range will be between 180 and 195 degrees! You don't want things getting above 200 degrees, or you might have a problem!
I watch all my gauges much more closely when driving my Deuce, than any other truck I drive! Old trucks need more TLC. [
]
- 10,350
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- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Robert,
At idle, the multifuel will probably never reach operating temp. The engine only burns enough fuel to keep turning over, about 1 gallon/hour.
It's when using the crane at standstill that the winter cover serves its purpose. At 1,200 rpm the engine will get to 180 or so in 15 minutes with the cover closed. That's about when the t-stat begins to open and it doesn't get much above that.
When driving on level highway the temp may stabilize at about 180-185 with the flap open on the winter cover. Hitting a hill at 50-55 mph, the temp will begin to rise, perhaps to 190, depending on oad and grade.
Loaded with a total vehicle weight of about 24,000 lb and driving on I-40 up a long 7% grade in 4th gear doing about 28 mph the engine temp climbed to 206 deg one time (small flap open on winter cover, ambient about 60). I shifted down to 3rd and the temp dropped to 195 and the speed dropped a little to about 25 mph. This is what this engine was built for! It loves it and can do it forever and a day!
Driving down a long grade (I-77 from Virginia to NC), the temperature will drop to about 150 degrees without a winter front.
BTW I use 50-50 mix of glycol and water w/coolant additives. The boiling point is about 226 deg F.
I have lots of data on this, but the bottom line is that the current cooling system is primitive.
The dash mounted gauge is not very easy to read, so I have a digital thermocouple thermometer hooked up for these kind of tests.
Straight up on my gauge is about 178 degrees, so the t-stat hasn't begin to open when the needle is pointing to "normal". The engine is more efficient at 185-190.
Use your winter cover!
At idle, the multifuel will probably never reach operating temp. The engine only burns enough fuel to keep turning over, about 1 gallon/hour.
It's when using the crane at standstill that the winter cover serves its purpose. At 1,200 rpm the engine will get to 180 or so in 15 minutes with the cover closed. That's about when the t-stat begins to open and it doesn't get much above that.
When driving on level highway the temp may stabilize at about 180-185 with the flap open on the winter cover. Hitting a hill at 50-55 mph, the temp will begin to rise, perhaps to 190, depending on oad and grade.
Loaded with a total vehicle weight of about 24,000 lb and driving on I-40 up a long 7% grade in 4th gear doing about 28 mph the engine temp climbed to 206 deg one time (small flap open on winter cover, ambient about 60). I shifted down to 3rd and the temp dropped to 195 and the speed dropped a little to about 25 mph. This is what this engine was built for! It loves it and can do it forever and a day!
Driving down a long grade (I-77 from Virginia to NC), the temperature will drop to about 150 degrees without a winter front.
BTW I use 50-50 mix of glycol and water w/coolant additives. The boiling point is about 226 deg F.
I have lots of data on this, but the bottom line is that the current cooling system is primitive.
The dash mounted gauge is not very easy to read, so I have a digital thermocouple thermometer hooked up for these kind of tests.
Straight up on my gauge is about 178 degrees, so the t-stat hasn't begin to open when the needle is pointing to "normal". The engine is more efficient at 185-190.
Use your winter cover!
Longhunter7
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- Northern Illinois
Cranetruck,
I am about to change my coolant and would like to know more about your recommendations on this matter, thank you!
I am about to change my coolant and would like to know more about your recommendations on this matter, thank you!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Longhunter7, in my previous post, "primitive" refers to the control system, which consist of one thermostat and nothing else.
As far as the coolant, here is a summary of points:
1) Change coolant at least every two years. The coolant has many duties and the effectiveness of the coolant diminishes in time even if the vehicle isn't driven.
2) Get coolant test strips to check for acidity and freeze protection. "Cooltrak" is available on line (Google it) and you get a plastic jar with test strips. Just dip into coolant and compare the color change to reference chart.
3) Use an antifreeze with low silicate formula. I use 4 gallons Texaco"Heavy Duty" antifreeze, 3-1/2 gallons of distilled water and 2 pints of SCA (Supplimental Coolant Additive).
The purpose of the SCA is to prevent scale formation and "foaming".
4) I would highly recommend that you install a coolant filter. It doesn't take long and helps remove gritty substances, like rust and core sand from the coolant, which shortens the life of the pump and seals.
When changing coolant it may hard or impossible to remove drain plugs on the engine block, so I use the following procedure:
1) Drain the radiator. It removes about 5 gallons from the system.
2) Refill the radiator with water (distilled is always best).
3) Start and run the engine until the thermostat opens, which should be at about 180 F. You will need to cover the radiator with the winter front or a piece of cardboard.
Run engine for 5-10 more minutes.
4) Let cool off and drain radiator again of 5 gallons and refill with 5 more gallons of water.
Repeat this 4 more times at which time only a small percentage of the original coolant is left.
5) Finally, use 4 gallons of antifreeze plus 3-1/2 gallons of water and the 2 pints of SCA. Run engine at 180 or above for a final mix.
6) Test coolant with test strip.
You will see an article on this in next? issue of MVM for more details and pictures, meanwhile I'm here 24-7 if you have any questions.
One point that I'm trying to make is that the dash mounted temperature gauge will not tell you much about the cooling system, it requires constant checking for leaks, condition of hoses etc. and the coolant itself should be clear. Make sure the radiator cap is in good condition too.
I'm sure much was left out here, but it's a beginning.
As far as the coolant, here is a summary of points:
1) Change coolant at least every two years. The coolant has many duties and the effectiveness of the coolant diminishes in time even if the vehicle isn't driven.
2) Get coolant test strips to check for acidity and freeze protection. "Cooltrak" is available on line (Google it) and you get a plastic jar with test strips. Just dip into coolant and compare the color change to reference chart.
3) Use an antifreeze with low silicate formula. I use 4 gallons Texaco"Heavy Duty" antifreeze, 3-1/2 gallons of distilled water and 2 pints of SCA (Supplimental Coolant Additive).
The purpose of the SCA is to prevent scale formation and "foaming".
4) I would highly recommend that you install a coolant filter. It doesn't take long and helps remove gritty substances, like rust and core sand from the coolant, which shortens the life of the pump and seals.
When changing coolant it may hard or impossible to remove drain plugs on the engine block, so I use the following procedure:
1) Drain the radiator. It removes about 5 gallons from the system.
2) Refill the radiator with water (distilled is always best).
3) Start and run the engine until the thermostat opens, which should be at about 180 F. You will need to cover the radiator with the winter front or a piece of cardboard.
Run engine for 5-10 more minutes.
4) Let cool off and drain radiator again of 5 gallons and refill with 5 more gallons of water.
Repeat this 4 more times at which time only a small percentage of the original coolant is left.
5) Finally, use 4 gallons of antifreeze plus 3-1/2 gallons of water and the 2 pints of SCA. Run engine at 180 or above for a final mix.
6) Test coolant with test strip.
You will see an article on this in next? issue of MVM for more details and pictures, meanwhile I'm here 24-7 if you have any questions.
One point that I'm trying to make is that the dash mounted temperature gauge will not tell you much about the cooling system, it requires constant checking for leaks, condition of hoses etc. and the coolant itself should be clear. Make sure the radiator cap is in good condition too.
I'm sure much was left out here, but it's a beginning.
1ton
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Bjorn since you seem to have a lot of ideas on the subject, I am curious how would you make the cooling system in the duece un-primitive? bar none.
Longhunter7
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- Northern Illinois
Cranetruck,
Thank you for the information, and I am looking forward to the article in Military Vehicle Magazine! I always enjoy your articles!![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Thank you for the information, and I am looking forward to the article in Military Vehicle Magazine! I always enjoy your articles!
- 10,350
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- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
You are welcome LH7.
1ton, when I say primitive, I refer to the control system. It has been brought up before, but electric fan(s) and a radiator shutter under thermostat control could keep the engine temp to within a few degrees of ideal at all times.
Just by installing an accurate thermometer, you can do a lot yourself by manually controlling the winter cover flap and selecting the right gear for the occasion etc.
If you let the coolant go, you are asking for trouble. Scale will begin to form and heat will not be transferred at the proper rate to the coolant. Your gauge will not tell you about this kind of problem. There may be hot spots but the colant temp is still "normal".
The coolant also transfers heat from the oil (oil cooler). If your oil is running hot for whatever reason, the coolant will have extra work to deal with.
Look into a coolant filter too, it's worth it.
1ton, when I say primitive, I refer to the control system. It has been brought up before, but electric fan(s) and a radiator shutter under thermostat control could keep the engine temp to within a few degrees of ideal at all times.
Just by installing an accurate thermometer, you can do a lot yourself by manually controlling the winter cover flap and selecting the right gear for the occasion etc.
If you let the coolant go, you are asking for trouble. Scale will begin to form and heat will not be transferred at the proper rate to the coolant. Your gauge will not tell you about this kind of problem. There may be hot spots but the colant temp is still "normal".
The coolant also transfers heat from the oil (oil cooler). If your oil is running hot for whatever reason, the coolant will have extra work to deal with.
Look into a coolant filter too, it's worth it.
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
1ton, here is a more sophisticated cooling system:
http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/enginetempcontrol
(If you can't read the copy, let me know and I repost it here)
http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/enginetempcontrol
(If you can't read the copy, let me know and I repost it here)
Longhunter7
Member
- 923
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- Northern Illinois
Cranetruck,
Would I be correct in assuming that there will be more information on the coolant filter in the upcoming article in Military Vehicle Magazine?
Inquiring Deuce owners need to know!
Would I be correct in assuming that there will be more information on the coolant filter in the upcoming article in Military Vehicle Magazine?
Inquiring Deuce owners need to know!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Is this what you need?
Longhunter7
Member
- 923
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- Northern Illinois
Cranetruck,
Thats what I needed, but I will need some help sorting out the plumbing once I get the filter!
I will collect all the parts and pieces, and then see how it will all go together! Thanks for the information!
Thats what I needed, but I will need some help sorting out the plumbing once I get the filter!
I will collect all the parts and pieces, and then see how it will all go together! Thanks for the information!
- 10,350
- 75
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
You are welcome!
NAPA part numbers: Filter #4070 and bracket #FIL4019.
You will need 5/8 ID hose, Tee's if you have a heater and hose clamps.
The connection points are the same as those for the heater. The filter is a "by-pass" type filter and only filters a portion of the coolant at a time, but eventually all will be filtered.
NAPA part numbers: Filter #4070 and bracket #FIL4019.
You will need 5/8 ID hose, Tee's if you have a heater and hose clamps.
The connection points are the same as those for the heater. The filter is a "by-pass" type filter and only filters a portion of the coolant at a time, but eventually all will be filtered.