Advice--Words of Wisdom?

[cjkeeliii]

I think my m1008's left rear axle seal is leaking--there is oil coming from the drum. I guess that means I'll be explaining to the wife why I'm spending even more money on my "hobby". So, does anyone have any advice, short cuts, favorite cuss words, etc. for removing the axle and replacing this seal? Any help would be appreciated and might prolong my marriage.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Read the TM.

 

[drgreg]

Seals are cheap.

 

[Cucvnut]

its a ff14 bolt there not hard to change ( the seals )

 

[69dieselfreak]

hi guys im new this site but not new to big rigs and vehicles anyway

if you got any sort of oil on your brakes they need to be cleaned with solvent diesel fuel ect after that shoot it down with a bunch of either soak it and then lite it on fire be careful (what this does is brings the enbeaded oil in the friction material up and out ) wont burn for very long and it wont melt anything
make shure that the fire is out shoot it down with some more either let it dry
and then scuff up the brakes with sand paper and away you go

its an easy way to save some moeny if your brakes are still in good condition

 

[6x6guy]

Invite a couple of friends ( mechanically incline type) and a case of beer should do it.

 

[davo727]

rear brake shoes are $35 at autozone. seal about $3

 

[wallew]

"But dear, it's a hobby. It's not like I'm chasing women or doing drugs or something like that."

And for less than $40 you and a couple of friends (perhaps a case of beer) and you will be good to go.

Changing seals is easy. Brake pads are relatively easy. Even when you don't know what you are doing, read the TM. Problems solved. And you get a feeling of satisfaction knowing YOU did the work.

 

[Chevytruck]

"But dear, it's a hobby. It's not like I'm chasing women or doing drugs or something like that."

And for less than $40 you and a couple of friends (perhaps a case of beer) and you will be good to go.

Changing seals is easy. Brake pads are relatively easy. Even when you don't know what you are doing, read the TM. Problems solved. And you get a feeling of satisfaction knowing YOU did the work.

dont forget you doing it yourself is cheaper then going to the shop and having them do it!

 

[dirtyfingernails]

Heck, wrenching on the darn things brings me the most enjoyment. If you were closer, I'd help out.

 

[atankersdad]

Here is what works for me. Buy another one, and tell her its gonna wind up as a parts truck to save you lots of money, or better yet, make you money. After you get to 5 trucks, using this approach, they will lose track of what you have. This is working for me with deuces. "Oh yea, that's a part truck that I will make a fortune on" is my standard replay....

 

[jeep-Jeep]

I did that and when it came to getting divorced she had no idea how many jeeps I had.
all the sudden I was down to only two .(what a coincidence)

 

[cjkeeliii]

You guys are a bad influence on me.....but I like it!

 

[cjkeeliii]

OK-Now What?

I have the hub off, and I see a snap ring that appears to be holding the race for the outer wheel bearing. Will this come off/go on easily, and will a set of snap ring pliers do the trick? Will the race just come out if I can get the snap ring off? Thanx.

 

[cjkeeliii]

Am I looking too hard for trouble?

Sorry to keep resurrecting this post.

OK, I got the thing reassembled; although I had to clean and grease the outer bearings with them still in the brake drum because I couldn't remove the snap ring. I test drove the truck several times and the hub is warm to the touch , where the other hub is at ambient temperature. Any ideas why? I did everything according to the book. I did put the adjusting nut back tighter than it was when I disassembled it, but I assembled it the way the Haynes book told me: tighten with 50lbs of torque, loosen, tighten by hand, and then tighten until next keyway lines up. When I diassembled the nut it was loose enough to turn with my fingers. I used NLGI # 2 grease. There aren't any unusual sounds, smells, or sights. Is this a mountain out of a mole hill?

 

[GM72K10]

Here is what works for me. Buy another one, and tell her its gonna wind up as a parts truck to save you lots of money, or better yet, make you money. After you get to 5 trucks, using this approach, they will lose track of what you have. This is working for me with deuces. "Oh yea, that's a part truck that I will make a fortune on" is my standard replay....

Exactly, besides, if I can buy a "running" parts truck for what I just sold the last "nonrunning" parts truck, how can you defy such great logic for buying another? And it keeps me off the streets, etc.

 

[davo727]

Sorry to keep resurrecting this post.

OK, I got the thing reassembled; although I had to clean and grease the outer bearings with them still in the brake drum because I couldn't remove the snap ring. I test drove the truck several times and the hub is warm to the touch , where the other hub is at ambient temperature. Any ideas why? I did everything according to the book. I did put the adjusting nut back tighter than it was when I disassembled it, but I assembled it the way the Haynes book told me: tighten with 50lbs of torque, loosen, tighten by hand, and then tighten until next keyway lines up. When I diassembled the nut it was loose enough to turn with my fingers. I used NLGI # 2 grease. There aren't any unusual sounds, smells, or sights. Is this a mountain out of a mole hill?

If it gets hot you might just back the nut off one notch