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Aftermarket 3 gauge set (yes I’ve looked up previous threads)

Ccucv

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Memphis, TX
I’ve looked up different threads on hooking up gauges in my M1009 and each one seems to lead away from simplicity (in my opinion).
I’m looking at a basic set of 3 gauges from O’Really’s (Equus) that has water temp, oil pressure and voltage. I’m currently running one alternator, otherwise it’s a stock 6.2. I’m not going to fab up my own panel, reconstruct the factory gauge panel or anything like that.
Is it true that a 3 gauge panel should bolt up where the two screws are underneath the ash tray? (With no drilling)
Is it true that all I need to do is take out the oil pressure sender near the firewall and the temp sender on the driver’s side head near the first glow plug and install the Equus senders? I’m trying to go for simplicity as much as possible because this is going to be my 7 year son’s first vehicle. Thanks for the help!
 

edpdx

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Oregon
There is an extra spot for the temp gauge on the passenger side, buried behind the intake leg on the number 8 port. It has a block off plate, but a GM part with a bung for a temp gauge is available. I went this route, but have not been all that satisfied. I don't know if the temp switch it too short and does not get into the coolant at this location or the gauge is bad somewhere , r if I simply have never added sufficient coolant. Before using this- it's kind of a pain to get to, see what gauges others have used here.
 

Ccucv

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Memphis, TX
I will check that out. I forgot to mention that only the “GEN 1” dummy lights work, so yes gauges will help me tremendously!
 

Bigtoxi

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Arkansas
Can you post a pic of where you put temp gauge sensor? Also I am installing a oil pressure gauge . Where should I install oil sensor ? My oil sample tube has been removed. Thanks in advance
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Schertz TX
I had an Equus coolant temperature gauge. Unreliable to put it mildly. And I didn't like the non linear scale either. When I finally got a good thermostat, I pulled it out.
I wanted something more than a simple voltmeter, found a combo ammeter voltmeter digital for under $20. Works like a charm.
 

Mainsail

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Placing the oil pressure gauge somewhere in your line of sight will alert you that you have a leak or low oil level before you do any damage.

When you're making a hard left or right, or stopping hard, if the gauge is in your LOS you'll see the needle drop hard and recover- that means your oil level is low.

Just a thought.
 

Sharecropper

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Paris KY
As far as oil pressure, I prefer to add a brass tee and keep the idiot light as well.

I agree with Recovery, keep the idiot lights and add gauges. Leave the factory OEM instrument panel as shipped from GM and install the new gauges as stand-alone instruments. Also make certain the idiot light bulbs in the factory instrument panel are not burnt out by paying attention when the key is turned at start-up. Those idiot lights are important and maybe not as idiot as people think. If you lose oil pressure suddenly, chances are you will notice the light coming on sooner than you will casually look at the gauge. That is why I like to have both. I am considering trying to figure out how to make those idiot lights blink when activated.

I prefer mechanical gauges instead of gauges with electrical sending units. For my oil pressure gauge, I added an extension to the factory adapter behind the engine to get everything up higher so it would be easier to work on. Regarding the best location for the water temperature probe, the access port on the rear of the passenger head will work fine however you need to make sure your cooling system has been burped and there are no air pockets which would affect the reading. Most people add coolant at the radiator cap and then rely on the water pump to fill the engine, however there are pockets in the engine and head castings which can trap air. These pockets are eventually eliminated with maximum coolant flow when the thermostat is fully opened, however I like to fill a new engine and head with coolant by opening these back ports and filling the block and heads from there, then closing those ports and finish filling at the crossover port. This method assures that all air pockets are eliminated prior to start-up.

I also agree with Mainsail to place the new gauges as close to line-of-sight as possible. If you can't position them close to line-of-sight, at least turn them so that the gauge faces are facing your eyes while sitting in the drivers seat. For my new P400 engine installation, I am fabricating a new gauge panel which will mount on the lower dash and cover the ashtray. This design is probably way-more than you want or need, however I hope you get the idea.
 
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