Air accessories for an M939 series 5 ton?

[JohnnyBM931A2]

So I picked up a factory tire inflator attachment with glad hand to keep on the truck. However, I am curious what other guys are running for their impact and jack setups (pictures would be awesome .) One of the things that I am curious about is the fittings that you guys are using.. I've never dealt with 1/2" air hose fittings before, so I'm not sure which ones are best. I bought a 20 ton air over hydraulic jack from HF, and a used Chicago Pneumatic 1" impact gun. I also bought a 25' section of 1/2 I.D. hose, and a NOS glad hand attachment to adapt everything to run off of the truck. But what connectors should I use between the various components? I've seen the typical quick disconnect couplings in 1/2", but I am also seeing the rotational style fittings, the type you see on jackhammers, etc. Do those provide more airflow than the standard couplings? Obviously the 1" impact is going to need a good supply of air, so I want fittings that will have the least amount of restriction. Any help is appreciated

 

[NDT]

I use the Milton quick connect for 1/2" and the 1" air impact goes like crazy. Crowsfoots are good but a little more bulky.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Thank you One of the reasons that I was considering the crows foot fittings is the fact that I saw a 40pc used lot of them for sale. They want $50 for them, and they are guaranteed to have good seals. But if the standard quick connect couplings work fine then I will probably stick with those. Are there any variations with 1/2" fittings that I have to be aware of, or are they all the same? Don't know if I can buy them all in one lot, so I want to be sure. I'm more familiar with 3/8" fittings, and there are at least 3 different versions that I know of (Automotive, I/M, and another that I can't remember.)

Also, I have never used a glad hand fitting in my life. Is there anything special I need to know about using them, maintaining them, etc.?

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Also, I have never used a glad hand fitting in my life. Is there anything special I need to know about using them, maintaining them, etc.?

Make sure you close the valve then bleed the line before you disconnect them.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Make sure you close the valve then bleed the line before you disconnect them.

Good to know. Thanks

 

[NDT]

Both the seals for glad hands and crowsfoots are 50 cent items from the appropriate suppliers. If either is defective or worn, the coupling will leak.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Both the seals for glad hands and crowsfoots are 50 cent items from the appropriate suppliers. If either is defective or worn, the coupling will leak.

Should they be lubricated to keep the rubber from drying out? Or should they just be left dry?

 

[m109a2]

Put a T in the line with a quick disconnect that way use the same hose,Truck or shop.Al

 

[wreckerman893]

Should they be lubricated to keep the rubber from drying out? Or should they just be left dry?

A little Vasoline or grease will keep them pliable and help them seal too.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Thanks guys

 

[Csm Davis]

Should they be lubricated to keep the rubber from drying out? Or should they just be left dry?

A little shot of Silicon spray will help with getting them on and off and I would recommend getting the colored urethane gladhand seals for the truck side so you don't have to paint them on the truck and I like the the seals with the center split covers for the accessories to keep dirt and bugs out. I use a gladhand that has a quick connect for my regular 1/2" shop hose so I can use any tools I have and also have a male to male 1/2" so I can use another gladhand on the far end or hook to shop air, I also have a 1/2" male to 3/8" female so I can hook up other people's tools or some of my small tools. A 20 gallon air tank will also help if you are doing big jobs I hook it in between the truck and my big gun for a little more punch.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

A little shot of Silicon spray will help with getting them on and off and I would recommend getting the colored urethane gladhand seals for the truck side so you don't have to paint them on the truck and I like the the seals with the center split covers for the accessories to keep dirt and bugs out. I use a gladhand that has a quick connect for my regular 1/2" shop hose so I can use any tools I have and also have a male to male 1/2" so I can use another gladhand on the far end or hook to shop air, I also have a 1/2" male to 3/8" female so I can hook up other people's tools or some of my small tools. A 20 gallon air tank will also help if you are doing big jobs I hook it in between the truck and my big gun for a little more punch.

Thank you

 

[simp5782]

Here ya go. Pics are always better. 2 - 20ton bottle jacks, 1" pistol grip impact with extensions ( I had to go to a 1" to 3/4" reducer and a 3/4" to 1" upper for it to reach the rear lugs), 1 - 50ft 1/2" air hose with glandhand, 11 - 4"x4" blocks (some long/some short), Schrader valve tool, air chuck, tire gauge, Teflon tape, extra gladhand, extra snap on chuck, small pry bar, tire plug kit (all go in the small ammo box along with the jack handles). Bottle with soapy water in it, and a socket set for heavy trucks. All of it fits nicely in the side box along with a gallon of Rotella. I spend approx. $300 on the whole setup at Harbor Freight. I know with 2 minutes of idle time the 1" gun will take off 3 lugs with ease. I just didn't want the big long impact. Hope this helps some.

 

[NDT]

Excellent! That 1" air impact is a must have. Check out your local pawn shop for deals on these. Seems like these go home in lunch boxes alot.

 

[Scar59]

HF has a 30 ton air driven bottle jack. Goes up real smooth, no hand pumping, great time saver.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

HF has a 30 ton air driven bottle jack. Goes up real smooth, no hand pumping, great time saver.

Yeah I bought the 20 ton version.. Got it for $88 on sale

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Here ya go. Pics are always better. 2 - 20ton bottle jacks, 1" pistol grip impact with extensions ( I had to go to a 1" to 3/4" reducer and a 3/4" to 1" upper for it to reach the rear lugs), 1 - 50ft 1/2" air hose with glandhand, 11 - 4"x4" blocks (some long/some short), Schrader valve tool, air chuck, tire gauge, Teflon tape, extra gladhand, extra snap on chuck, small pry bar, tire plug kit (all go in the small ammo box along with the jack handles). Bottle with soapy water in it, and a socket set for heavy trucks. All of it fits nicely in the side box along with a gallon of Rotella. I spend approx. $300 on the whole setup at Harbor Freight. I know with 2 minutes of idle time the 1" gun will take off 3 lugs with ease. I just didn't want the big long impact. Hope this helps some.

Thanks for the pics dude

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Excellent! That 1" air impact is a must have. Check out your local pawn shop for deals on these. Seems like these go home in lunch boxes alot.

Yup. I went right for the 1". I ended up getting a used Central Pneumatic long shank 1" gun for $175. New they are $600, so I thought that was a pretty good deal. There's another one on eBay for around $70 right now, but it's pretty beat up.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

So after reading a few of your guys ideas, I'm thinking I would prefer to mount a "T" somewhere in the trucks air system, and pipe that to a 7 gallon tank that I have. Seems like having a tank with a quick disconnect would be easier to use than the gladhand, plus I would have extra air volume from the tank. So first, where is the best place for me to put a T in the system? And second, will adding more volume to the system have any negative effects regarding the brakes?

 

[acme66]

My compressor must be a little anemic because there is no way I could run my 1 inch impact off the truck, it would take longer waiting for recovery than just standing on the breaker bar handle. Might be the fault of the gun however. I think I would be better off with a smaller 3/4 drive gun of a little higher quality but hate to buy "another" one just to test. Again I think the compressor on my 83 must be weak because it could never pass a COLA test without kicking the idle up to 1000rpm. That is allowed, at least in Montana anyway, for the test but I still feel it should be able to do it at 600rpm just like the other trucks.

Ken