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Air dryer

simp5782

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As a reminder if anyone attemps to purchase an SKF air dryer make sure it had the yellow tag in it that says Holset compatible. If it has a red label on it then it will not simply install so easy.
 

Suprman

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I find them online in the 50 dollars range usually. If you have to order one from the manufacturer they are around 100. I have never tried servicing a tube with fins one. I had one of the service kits a while back. Big bag of beads, small filter and a bunch of gaskets and o rings if I remember correctly. I started trying to take the tube apart and gave up when all the gunk started oozing out. All of it went into the dumpster.
 

Elijah95

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Georgia
I find them online in the 50 dollars range usually. If you have to order one from the manufacturer they are around 100. I have never tried servicing a tube with fins one. I had one of the service kits a while back. Big bag of beads, small filter and a bunch of gaskets and o rings if I remember correctly. I started trying to take the tube apart and gave up when all the gunk started oozing out. All of it went into the dumpster.
Tube w/Fins model on my truck was 90% full of water, it was unbelievable. The grease that was in it from assembly looked like mustard, I probably had a gallon + of water


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simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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I have acquired a few AD2 style dryers that go on the 915 trucks. Old but simple. Parts easily available. New filter kit is $55 at oreillys and 65 at napa. New lower purge assembly is $150 from Oreillys. Part number 286936X for the complete reman dryer for $275. These are large so would have decent room on the outside of the LMTV frame


AD9 dryers are also quite common in the civilian world.
 
Last edited:

tennmogger

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Thanks for the prices.

The old finned dryer/filters obviously should not have water in them. They weren't purging. The liquid stuff should be blown out every purge, and that should happen when the compressor governor cycles. Rebuild needed.

Just cleaning requires taking the 6 bottom bolts out and dropping out all the mess inside, including the bead pack. I have found the bead packs for $40-ish but those can be really nasty looking and still take out oil and water. The bottom of the pack will always look bad. Compressor blow-by oil gives the emulsion the yucko look. In my experience it's a waste of time to do a full rebuild on the filter. If it is working just clean it and swap out the bead pack if you feel you need to. My next cleanout will include an attempt to wash down the beads to reuse them.

BTW, I do not think these are desiccant beads, just a medium to filter and coalesce the moisture. Look up coalescing filter.
 

jkcondrey

Active member
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Rutherfordton, NC
I rebuilt the original dryer on my 1081. Kit came with everything, but I forget what I paid. It was fairly straightforward and there was some gunk, but nothing more that I expected. Maybe Ill "upgrade" later, but it seems to work pretty well. The bead were labeled "desiccant" on the kit I had. The only tough part was getting the bead bag stuffed back in the center tube.
 

SausageGuy

Active member
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Location
Kansas City MO
After reading this I don't think my new dryer is purging. I have been wondering but had not had time to check it out.
So the small air line is what triggers the purge? Does it take pressure or lack of pressure to trigger? Sorry new to air brakes.aua
 

Suprman

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Stratford/Connecticut
When the air governor reaches full set pressure it sends an air signal to the compressor unloader to stop making pressure and it also sends the air signal to the air dryer to purge. I think its positive air but I am not 100 percent sure about it. Blow some air into the small line on your dryer see if it purges.
 

Ronmar

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Location
Port angeles wa
yep, positive air, acts on a piston with an O ring which lifts a valve disc off of a seat to vent the bottom of the housing where water collects...
 

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
Thanks for the prices.

The old finned dryer/filters obviously should not have water in them. They weren't purging. The liquid stuff should be blown out every purge, and that should happen when the compressor governor cycles. Rebuild needed.

Just cleaning requires taking the 6 bottom bolts out and dropping out all the mess inside, including the bead pack. I have found the bead packs for $40-ish but those can be really nasty looking and still take out oil and water. The bottom of the pack will always look bad. Compressor blow-by oil gives the emulsion the yucko look. In my experience it's a waste of time to do a full rebuild on the filter. If it is working just clean it and swap out the bead pack if you feel you need to. My next cleanout will include an attempt to wash down the beads to reuse them.

BTW, I do not think these are desiccant beads, just a medium to filter and coalesce the moisture. Look up coalescing filter.
I just striped mine apart, cleaned the housing components and washed the media last night. Pretty easy, the desiccant bag just had a zip-tie securing the top, washed, rinsed and dried in a clean bucket, but I only had a small amount of oil indicated at the bottom of the bag. The yellow greasy gunk is emulsified oil and wipes right off. I shot some video at various stages, once I get it edited together and uploaded, maybe tomorrow, I will post a link here. The beads appear to have some porosity as they change color from light cream to dark tan when wet.
 

ramdough

Well-known member
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Location
Austin, Texas
I just striped mine apart, cleaned the housing components and washed the media last night. Pretty easy, the desiccant bag just had a zip-tie securing the top, washed, rinsed and dried in a clean bucket, but I only had a small amount of oil indicated at the bottom of the bag. The yellow greasy gunk is emulsified oil and wipes right off. I shot some video at various stages, once I get it edited together and uploaded, maybe tomorrow, I will post a link here. The beads appear to have some porosity as they change color from light cream to dark tan when wet.
I am not sure what kind of desiccant beads are used, but you may need to bake out the moisture or replace them. The color change may be from them hydrating.


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Ronmar

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Location
Port angeles wa
I am not sure what kind of desiccant beads are used, but you may need to bake out the moisture or replace them. The color change may be from them hydrating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I work with various type of air drying systems, it is not indicating desiccant, it doesn't Really absorb moisture, it wouldn't last long if it did as you would have to apply a lot of heat and flow to dry it out.

Google coalescing filter for a better description, but basically the media doesn't absorb moisture, it collects it. Its close proximity and the porosity of the surface causes the moisture in the air flowing thru it to coalesce on the surface of the media, like dew on the grass. These droplets touch and grow in size and eventually flow down thru the media to drip into the bottom of the canister where they are purged whenever the governor cycles.
 

Finallygotone

Member
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Location
South Louisiana
on my 5 ton it would let out a yelp when It reached the correct pressure and I mean really loud and it set for about three weeks now when it get to pop off it don't near make the sound that it did but does it need cleaning or replacing, I miss that loud sound, thanks in advance for the reply as always, Joe.
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,881
7,549
113
Location
Port angeles wa
on my 5 ton it would let out a yelp when It reached the correct pressure and I mean really loud and it set for about three weeks now when it get to pop off it don't near make the sound that it did but does it need cleaning or replacing, I miss that loud sound, thanks in advance for the reply as always, Joe.
Could be the purge valve is not acting right or is full of crap.

The finned LMTV dryer has a rubber dust seal and elbow over the outlet. That seal looks like a duck bill with a slit in it. When the purge valve opens, the rush of air thru the dust seal forces it wide open and you get a large whoosh. If the valve isn't opening all the way a lower volume of airflow doesn't open the ducks beak all the way and it squeals. It should whoosh, not squeal as you want the large rush of air to carry as much water with it as possible.
 
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