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Air-O-Matic adjustment

bones1

Member
854
4
18
Location
Southern Maryland
My air-o-matic drag link has a lot of threads showing and some on here have very few threads showing. What's a good way to tell where I need to be with this adjustment. The stock drag link is not adjustable. But the new one is. I tried to match it up lengthwise with the stock one but you can only get so close.
 

Attachments

dmetalmiki

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Hmmm.... Well my air cylinders are on the other way round 4 a start. With the air SUPPLY LINE nearest the chassis. and therefore the adjustment easier to make from the front. (and) I check LOCK TO LOCK first. if the adjustment is IN too far (or OUT too far) you will "jam at one lock). Whith the adjustent gap equel (or (only just)) touching one side..it should be the same on the opposite lock. Then remove the (easy in my case)) front part off the drop arm and (with the wheels straight ahead) centralise the steering wheel. Then final adjust the gaps. You may find steering wheel first, gaps second, works equally for you.
I will take pictures of ours tommorrow its late night here now. ( oh,and yes the power steer IS the other way round (like yours)) on one of my deuces.
 

glcaines

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Hiawassee, Georgia
The Air-O-Matic on my M35A3 is installed the same as your photo. Not sure if it really makes a difference which way it's installed as long is it's plumbed correctly. However, I've attached Bulletin 82809 from Air-O-Matic which specifically states that "The rotating end of the torque valve is to be placed toward the shorter end of the drag link, preferably the pitman end."
 

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bones1

Member
854
4
18
Location
Southern Maryland
Thanks for the information. That pdf will really help in diagnosis. I just put the wheels back on the truck and tried it out. Very little assist in either direction with full air pressure. It is exhausting air though. I did not use the air regulator but did use the safety valve. I think the problem is not enough air pressure getting to the drag link valve. If I force the steering wheel, hold steady pressure on it in a turn, it will give some assist but only after about 5-7 seconds before it kicks in. This is sitting still in the driveway.I notice that the safety valve is leaking air from the adjustment allen screw. Any thoughts?
Could the safety valve be stuck/bad?.
 

peashooter

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Location
Hanover, minnesota
You can try it out by just bypassing the safety valve or hooking the drag link valve right up to your shop air compressor to determine if its a valve or supply issue. Also the nos air o matic is probably a good 10-20 years old so it's possible the drag link is a little sticky. I had an issue like this and unhooked the ram(ball joint side) from the tie rod so the ram would be free to move. then put a air quick coupling on the drag link then put some marvel mystery oil in, hooked it up to shop air and had my daughter turn the steering wheel back and fourth. I kept unhooking it and adding mmo then air tool oil to "wash" out the rubber swelling marvel mystery oil. It finally worked but took probably 30 min of cycling before it was smooth cycling.
 
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peashooter

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Hanover, minnesota
No I don't think so.... I guess I've never tried too hard since it doesn't seem like it would be a good idea... I'd feel bad for the steering gearbox
 

glcaines

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Hiawassee, Georgia
Thanks for the tips Aaron. I will mess with it tomorrow after work. Can you turn your wheels sitting still, I cannot.
You should never try to turn the wheels while the vehicle is stationary. This is true for all vehicles as it places significant stresses on the steering system components. Jack the front end off the ground and cycle back and forth. I didn't use MMO, i used air tool oil exclusively and i added it to the torque valve. It worked great on mine, but it took quite a few cycles. However, I would recommend using Peashooter's idea of using the air compressor to isolate the problem. You might now have a problem with the torque valve or ram.
 

bones1

Member
854
4
18
Location
Southern Maryland
An ebay add for Air-o-matic steering.
"Beware of the older surplus kits that were release a few years ago, they were made back in the early 1990's and 20+ year old rubber is not a good thing. but with these new manufacture kits this is not a problem any more.
I have sold 100's of these kits in the past and installed several of them. They will provide you with nice power steering which you will be able to turn the wheel with one hand while parked in place, something you could never even do before.
It is a complete bolt on kit no cutting or welding required like some other power steering kits. I have installed all different types of power steering on these trucks, and this is by far the simplest and best setup for the do it yourself-er".
This is why I thought you could steer it sitting still.
 

peashooter

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Location
Hanover, minnesota
I think they can steer the stock ndt tires sitting still if I remember right (again not that you should) but turning your 395s would be a different story. While parked you should be able to turn the wheel one direction with one hand for a second or 2 (not too hard) then let go of it and here the drag link hiss the exhaust air from the attempted steer.
 

dmetalmiki

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Location
London England
assembly.jpgassy.jpgthreads.jpgOK here are the pictures as promised. as I suggested adjust iether way, but we do ours on (one ) full lock and adjust power cylinder to (its) maximum. Then go to full lock the other way. (does it reach the "stops"?. OK. if not adjust between the two.
Do note the correct way round for air pipes "out to the ram" if you have them the wrong way round (then) that would be the issue you have. The FRONT pipe goes to RIGHT side of the ram. < viewed from the FRONT of my truck.> (on my set up) so if yours is mounted the other way round your setup willbe back to front on to mine. (NOT on the ram though.)
 

bones1

Member
854
4
18
Location
Southern Maryland
Thanks for the pictures.The threads you have showing are just about the same as mine. That puts to bed one of my worries.
"we do ours on (one ) full lock and adjust power cylinder to (its) maximum. Then go to full lock the other way. (does it reach the "stops"?. OK. if not adjust between the two."
That sounds like the logical way to adjust it. I will try it.
Thanks again .
I am not using the regulator on mine,do you think I need it to supply steady/even air pressure to the unit?.
 
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dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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Location
London England
I allways use (all) the kit supplied. though I have heard of problems with the relief (pressure) valve leaking. However pulling the steering wheel side to side usually settles it. If it is continuously emmiting air regularly...bypass it. as soon as it is all piped up correctly pulling the wheel side to side (slowly) emits a MOST satisfying hiss! signifying ""mission accomplished"" Good luck. keep us (all) informed.
 

bones1

Member
854
4
18
Location
Southern Maryland
Pulled it out of the garage tonight and still very little assist so I drove it around the property for a while and it started working a little, assist for turning right I believe.Took it out for a ride down the back roads and by the time I got home I had really nice air assisted steering, needed to be loosened up I suppose. I still have to adjust the drag link for center and put a little air tool oil in the drag link but overall I am very pleased with the unit. Thanks for all the help on this.
 
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