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Air-O-Matic Troubleshooting

Crash_AF

Active member
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I'm working on Coondog's M35A3 and the Air-O-Matic isn't working at all. No air release from the system when you turn the wheel back and forth. The valve on the firewall is on, and there is air reaching the drag link.

The troubleshooting in the TM isn't very helpful so does anyone have any additional info on troubleshooting or what else I can check?

Does anyone have info on how to rebuild/clean the drag link valve if it comes to that? I'm only going to have the truck until the end of the week and I'd like to deliver it with everything working.

Thanks,
Joe
 

coyotegray

Member
492
10
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Location
Oklahoma City
If you disconnect the lines to the cylinder and turn the wheel do you get any air from either connection?

Can you turn the wheel or does it lock up....
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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Location
Colorado Springs, CO
I don't have a good gauge to check the exact pressure at the drag link, but it sounded like there was good pressure at the fitting.

My assumption is that there is something stuck from sitting so long and if I could find a manual/diagram for pulling the drag link apart to clean it that would probably solve the problems but I don't know much about the A3 trucks and the TM isn't very helpful in troubleshooting.

Later,
Joe
 

doghead

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I spoke with a technician at Meridyne(sp?) a few years back. I was trying to decide if buying old components to assemble a whole air assist setup, was feasible.

The technician told me that there are no "rebuild kits" available for the torque link(drag link valve). He also said it was impossible for a humans hands to assemble one(it is done on a machine).

The torque link is a non repairable item.
 

Crazyguyla

Active member
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Altus, OK
Pour air tool oil into the inlet on the drag link.. might free up what's binding. As far as being non repairible.. a little ingenuity. a vice, and a big pipe wrench might be in order. I've repaired many things deemed non repairible.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Heh, yea... non repairable by human hands means you need tools. I believe that was one of the evolutionary advancements that we all benefited from.

Anyway, if it's dead, where is a good source for a replacement?

Thanks,
Joe
 

jollyroger

Member
647
5
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Location
Centennial, Colorado
I understand the term not repairable. It usually means they want you to remove and replace.

As for not repairable by human hands I would have to say at this point if a human built the machine that built the part we are still in the loop and should be able to fix it. If it's glued or welded together so it is not serviceable that would be another thing entirely. I'm not trying to bash and I know I am making a semantical argument but words in this sense (on the intranet thingy) are important.......You get my point.

As for how the air-o-matic works I am not a value add. I was hoping to find out in this post.

I would also suggest the tool oil or mystery marvel oil down the port and turn the wheel back and forth with both air lines off. Then drive. If you drive right away you may end up with a hydro lock condition somewhere in the valveing.
 

doghead

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IIRC, the guy mentioned he had like 15-20 years experience with these units, he was probably wrong...

Arthur Bloom was the only "dealer/distributor" I know of.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Well, I worked on it a little more today and am now getting a weak little "psst" every time I turn the wheel but still no noticeable power assist.

I'll have to dig up some tool oil to dump into the inlet to see if that helps. I'm just happy that it's making progress... LOL

Later,
Joe
 

tjcouch

New member
662
2
0
Location
Tampa, FL
Ummm yeah . . . the m35 does not go to the mechanic - the mechanic comes to the deuce!

Besides, this has every sign of being a six-pack project, not an hourly rate project. For now. Heh.

I am fully capable of squirting oil into the assembly . . . we'll see what happens from there.
 
Last edited:

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Did you adjust the regulator on the inside of the frame rail - drivers side? Lots of people apparently remove them, but with a few cranks, adjusting mine made a noticeable improvement in effort reduction.
 
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