Air Pack Questions

[GunInstructordotcom]

When I installed the air pack, the brake line from the top of the hydraulic side of the air pack to the distribution block was "gorilla tight", as Garrett would say. When I re-attached it, it leaked. I tightened it some more and now it just weeps a bit. I cannot tighten it any tighter, so I guess it is time to replace that line. Fortunately, Big Mike's has the new line for a reasonable cost. Line is ordered. I am on this string of "one thing leads to another" failures. It has been frustrating, but installing my new hydraulic head cured me of the "I don't know if I can do that" syndrome. The end of the line at the distribution block inside the frame does look at bit difficult to get at...

 

[Jeepsinker]

When I installed the air pack, the brake line from the top of the hydraulic side of the air pack to the distribution block was "gorilla tight", as Garrett would say. When I re-attached it, it leaked. I tightened it some more and now it just weeps a bit. I cannot tighten it any tighter, so I guess it is time to replace that line. Fortunately, Big Mike's has the new line for a reasonable cost. Line is ordered. I am on this string of "one thing leads to another" failures. It has been frustrating, but installing my new hydraulic head cured me of the "I don't know if I can do that" syndrome. The end of the line at the distribution block inside the frame does look at bit difficult to get at...

You'll either have to be a little creative to get at it, or pull the pack back off. I can get to it, but we don't all have the same size hands and forearms.

 

[GunInstructordotcom]

You'll either have to be a little creative to get at it, or pull the pack back off. I can get to it, but we don't all have the same size hands and forearms.

The block location is behind the air pack, about even with the spare tire. It will not be as hard as some of the work I did replacing the injector lines and hydraulic head, especially that metering shaft. Thanks for the response.

 

[Jeepsinker]

The block location is behind the air pack, about even with the spare tire. It will not be as hard as some of the work I did replacing the injector lines and hydraulic head, especially that metering shaft. Thanks for the response.

Yeah, I recall there being one or two P clamps holding the line to the frame up behind the air pack that are pretty difficult to get at. It's been a few years though and I might be remembering incorrectly.
The connection at the splitter isn't terrible to get at, but be sure to hold the block itself with a wrench before you try to break the line loose. Sucks when the block breaks free of the mounting bracket.

 

[GunInstructordotcom]

Yeah, I recall there being one or two P clamps holding the line to the frame up behind the air pack that are pretty difficult to get at. It's been a few years though and I might be remembering incorrectly.
The connection at the splitter isn't terrible to get at, but be sure to hold the block itself with a wrench before you try to break the line loose. Sucks when the block breaks free of the mounting bracket.

I traced the line and didn't see any clamps. I was debating holding the block or not. You're right, better safe than sorry. I noticed a DOT spec inline splice on one 1/2" air line above my head. I'll have to start tracing all the brake system lines and determine if any others need replacing. Most of the lines are still available but may not be in a few years.

 

[GunInstructordotcom]

I received from Big Mike's and installed the NOS airpack to distribution block brake line yesterday. Today there is weeping brake fluid from the distribution block connection and the air pack connection was a bit wet. The connectors are not cross-threaded and I tightened them fairly tight, but not gorilla tight. Is there a secret to tightening flare fittings? Should I loosen them and re-tighten? Should I go tighter?

 

[Jeepsinker]

I received from Big Mike's and installed the NOS airpack to distribution block brake line yesterday. Today there is weeping brake fluid from the distribution block connection and the air pack connection was a bit wet. The connectors are not cross-threaded and I tightened them fairly tight, but not gorilla tight. Is there a secret to tightening flare fittings? Should I loosen them and re-tighten? Should I go tighter?

Now I'm wondering if it wasn't just the line, but maybe the distribution block and air pack fitting are distorted from being overtightened also? Not sure what to tell you, other than just try to tighten them a bit more.

 

[G744]

Make sure and use the special inverted-flare wrenches when tightening those. A regular open-end will distort the nut when getting them really tight.

DG

 

[GunInstructordotcom]

Yes, I am using the flare nut wrench with the six sides and the narrow opening to go over the line. I'll post an update after I try tightening a bit more. Thanks for the advice, gentlemen.