Air Tank quick drain valves?

[mhb285]

I've got a set of the quick air drain valves for my truck. I started to remove the old valves. They are not cooperating! They look to be brass? I don't want to bugger them up trying to remove them and not get them removed.
Any sugestions?
Thanks
Mike Bogner

 

[houdel]

When I installed the quick release drain valves on my Deuce, the old valves were pretty hard to get out. It appears they used some type of sealer which hardened up, not Teflon tape. It took quite a bit of muscle to get the old valves out.

One thing I did notice is my QR valves (OE AM General upgrade set) don't seal as well as the regular valves. With my old valves the truck could sit most of the day before losing enough pressure to set the low air buzzer off. Now the buzzer will go off after the truck sits for 3-4 hours.

 

[mhb285]

I wonder if I should heat them with a torch?

 

[Jones]

A lot of rusty bolts, plugs, valves want to shear off because you're turning them in the direction the threads are weakest, against lots of years of built-up rust, corrosion, gunk.
Try this trick; after a thorough dousing with a good penetrant like Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, try first tightening the bolt, plug, valve just enough to break it loose. Tightening is the direction the threads are at their strongest (stacking as opposed to stretching).

 

[mhb285]

on a upsidedown valve? Kinda hard, if not impossable.

 

[houdel]

Heating might help loosen whatever crud is holding the valve to the tank. Propane is not the best, but if it is all you have it won't hurt and might help. You said the valves are brass - so heat the neck of the tank, not the valves, until the VALVE gets as hot as you can get it. Then cool the VALVE as rapidly as you can with a very wet rag soaked with COLD water. Try to keep the neck of the tank hot while cooling the valve, the brass will contract faster than the steel and hopefully loosen the joint enough so the valve will turn out.

Jones does have a good point - try to tighten then 1/8 turn or so to crack them loose before removing, that usually makes it easier to take them out also.

 

[Tony]

I agree with Jones, Kroil is th eonly way to go, workes better than any other penetraing solvant that I ever used..On the more difficult bolts etc, I let the solvant pentrate for a bit.

 

[Jones]

Most of the rust fighters need time to penetrate. A squirt, then hit it with a wrench doesn't get it. I've done repeat applications over the course of a week with good results. For "upside down valves"; open the valve, squirt enough penetrating oil up inside to get it to start to run back out, then close the valve and let it collect in the bottom of the tank and work from the inside too.