AirPack Rebuild Specifics

[tjcouch]

First let me say how much I appreciate all of the input on this board - it has been invaluable as I am a new deuce owner.

I have experienced a problem where all of my brakes are dragging - after a brief drive a few drops of water on the drums would sizzle with gusto.

When I open the trailer brake air port on the driver size air is discharged even when the pedal is not depressed.

I have surmised that my airpack is pushing air into and engaging the brakes. Driving with the trailer air valve cracked seemed to mitigate the problem.

So my questions are: 1. is my diagnosis correct? and 2: does anyone have specific instructions on solving this problem. Remember - I am a newbie here.

 

[cranetruck]

The air on the driver's side is for trailer braking. It's a direct connection to the air, which provides the boost in the air-pak. It should be discharged as soon as you let up on the brake pedal.
There is a vent for this, which is also tied with the vents from the fuel tank and master cylider. It is dumped via the crankcase breather tube to the outside world.
This vent may simply be blocked.
Otherwise, an air-pak rebuild is in order.
If the service air is open in the back, you'll have no boost, not a good way to travel.

 

[nickd]

if you want/need to rebuild your air pack the instructions are contained in TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1section 3 Hydraulic brake system. First I would lubricate the air pack by removing the plug on the rear of the airpack and squirt a few drops and replace the plug.

 

[tjcouch]

First I would lubricate the air pack by removing the plug on the rear of the airpack and squirt a few drops and replace the plug.

Checked vent-it is ok.

What type of lubricant should I use on the airpack?

 

[nickd]

air tool oil

 

[WillWagner]

Saturn Suurplus has the air-pak rebuild kits, for 36.00. I ordered one and am gonna do a rebuild. I'll let you know how hard it is

 

[Gatnom]

I had the same problems w/ my airpack. I also noticed when I blew down my reserve tanks, I had lots of rust/gunk coming out the drains, (actually had to run a wire in on occasion to clea blockages). I put an air moisture/filter in the feed line from the tanks and have not had a problem since. My original plan included an airpack rebuild and making stainless reserve tanks, but I've had such good success w/ the filter that I've not got that far yet. Dave

 

[cranetruck]

Got any details on that filter? Sounds like a good idea if you have dirt in the tanks.
There are valves within the airpak that can easily get upset by dirt particles in the air supply.

 

[Gatnom]

Here are links to a similar filter,(it actually looks identical). It was free from work so I'm not positive. Any type of pneumatic filter would most likely work. Look at industrial suppliers like Grainger, MSC, or even a place like surpluscenter.com. Dave

www.parker.com/pneumatic/cat/english/FRL-12F.pdf

http://cgi.ebay.com/PARKER-12F31EC-...ryZ56991QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[devilman96]

I just rebuilt one of these a week ago, after seeing the inside of it I would highly recommend yanking yours and going though it. If you don't know where its been and what its been though its worth the 38$ to get the kit.

The job its self is easy to do (mind where the springs fly off to), you just need hand tools and a few good hones, one for 1.250" ID and one for 4"ID (roughly) and a bead blaster (if you have access to one)...

I was amazed at how out of round the air side could get from a leather seal. The valve bodies (which is where your trouble prolly stems from) are aluminum, it will corrode and stick the check and release valves. Its about a 1 hour job when you exclude refinishing. I took the time to Teflon coat the inside and powder coat the outside just cuz I didn't want to see it again