74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 315
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
They said it was the coolest thing ever, go park it in the VIP section.How did you get your truck into a Poison concert ... with a broken back window?
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
They said it was the coolest thing ever, go park it in the VIP section.How did you get your truck into a Poison concert ... with a broken back window?
Some how I missed this post. Had he took a pic in front of a mirror...I’m writing this from the Poison concert, so it is going to be short. Use a strap and pull wrench rearward with a truck. That is how I did it.
View attachment 731101
I would expect them to outlast the standard rubber ones that I was running for a year prior to installing those.70k seems to be a fair amount of time?
I thought the same thing, I'd install it with a spacer. Thankfully mine tested good when I checked them a couple months ago, I do need to drive mine more though. I may look into installing plates while on the truck.Here is the problem. When we articulate and go to extreme, the housing (of the bone) twists sideways. The rubber is supposed to take that compression (one one side of the shaft) and tension (on the other side) and return to it's straight position. As the rubber gets old, it doesn't take much to tear it and let in water, etc. Articulation being a twist action has a lot of side force.
There would seem to be a problem with having a full side-plate when you have the rear in a twist. Guessing, that twist from axle to frame might be 35 degree and the edge of the bone's joint would push out on the plate and break off or pull out the bolt. Twisting the bone is a lot of leverage to push against the plate.
Simp is a great source, my 2 cents is the HD all metal joints are super expensive, and the rubber ones lasted 30 yrs, so not sure the metal means longer life. one thing i read while i was selecting what to do with mine. the metal are actually hyme-joints if i understand it correctly which allows the rear to move in any direction but not to "spring" back neutral so to speak. this will allow the rear to behave a bit differently than the rubber ones which the rubber "springs" the joint back to neutral. there are some threads here on SS about this, not sure what they finally found out. I'd recommend rubber with safety plates.I've been reading and researching on these bushings and I'm leaning towards the ones with the preinstalled safety plate. Like the korean deuce thread style.
The HD style look interesting due to the lack of rubber to deteriorate on a truck that admitedly sits a lot, especially during summer when the water tank is full. I just don't like putting around off the property with 7 tons of water.
I would love to hear some thoughts or opinions, especially from experienced folks like simp.