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The 395s are designed for a 10" rim. They fit ok on a stock rim, but have a slight balloon look to them. The biggest issue is breaking the rim down if you ever get a flat. You will be SOL if you don't have equipment to push the bead down while you remove the lock ring. I love my 395s.
I didn't do anything to the hubs; the only change I made was to go to lug nuts instead of the budd studs...everything just bolted right into placeDid you do anything special to the rear hubs when you went to the singles... I would love to put 395's on the stock rims but am curious what else you had to do to get this setup to work for you..
I'll agree that the front bumper styling is a little different; I wasn't sure about it as I was building it. I have designed literally dozens of other front bumper/brush guard/winch mounts, but all of them were out of round tube with radius bends; it was different to work with rectangle tubing. But, the design seems to suit the truck, I like it, and I have received quite a few compliments on it so I think it is on there to stay...at least until I mangle it somehowdc3coyote said:
No rubbing at speed; I've had it up to about 70 with no problem. The left front tire does rub the drag link at full lock, but just barely and it isn't enough to cause a problem. The most difficult part of this whole project was breaking the beads on the old NDT tires.
I can roll with a hijack! Nice looking Zuk! I have plans to make my black one look like that. I sold my diesel powered samurai buggy a couple of summers ago to make room for my unimooki (unimog axles under a suzuki...unimooki). It's still not done but getting closer. It is the vehicle I ultimately plan on hauling on my flatbed...
My brother lives in Anchorage and I've driven up there a few times...actually had plans to tow the unimooki up there this summer, but too many other things came up. But, I'd be willing to bet that I'll never be driving the deuce up the alcan; I'm just not man enough to do that when I have a perfectly good dodge to do the towing duties with...Sewerzuk, you have done a helluva job there!
I have been struggling with the decision of how I wanna make my winch bumper....I have a handfull of drawings but have not fired up the plasma yet
We have a few zuks, and have been trying to get together a zuk club here, and I have also been trying to get some interest in a MV rally here as well.......you need to load up your toy and head on up here and join in the fun!!
Maybe by then I will have gotten off my butt and built my bumper!!
I have all 6 at about 50 psi right now...seems to work fine. No wandering, tread surface looks nice and flat, smooth ride.
At 10 MPG it would cost $1k or more in fuel to drive a deuce up to AK, plus the risk of a breakdown in the middle of nowhere, plus the airplane ticket to fly to wherever you were buying it from, plus the 3 or 4 days (best case) it takes to drive the alcan, and those good deals don't seem so appealing anymore...You would need to get one for $2k or $3k less than what you could buy one for in AK to make it even BEGIN to be worthwhile.That's Gary's Truck Sales. Not a bad place at all
They have a few of my dollars lol
I keep finding killer deals down in the lower 48, but like you, I am hesitant to drive a duece all the way back here....esp one I just bought sight-unseen
Bed deck is 52" above the ground. The ramps are 10' long, so on flat ground the ramps are around 23 degrees. This may not sound like much but it feels pretty steep. I don't think it would be possible to build ramps long enough to take the angle away for loading a car on flat ground; they would need to be longer than 20'. However, with my 10' ramps, it is fairly easy to find a ledge or sloping piece of ground that takes most of that angle off. I have a slope on my property that allows me to place the ramps so that they actually travel down to the flatbed on the deuce...the only problem is finding something similar at my destination.
Yea, I figured ridiculously long ramps would be necessary to load a car but figured I'd ask you since you already have a physical set up made.
It is only 20 amps...but that 20A balance current happens all of the time. Sure, the winch draws 200-300A at full load, but it will only pull that for a minute or two. The equalizer doesn't need to be able to supply the full current that the winch draws (like a 12v converter would); the load will temporarily unbalance the batteries and then over the next several minutes the equalizer will rebalance them. The balance current flows even when the truck is not running...so it will correct even a large imbalance given enough time.
