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Of course there is still an engine where the hood used to be and it is getting a new one as we speak....the area where the cab was previously located at, is now shared by the 45,000 pound DP winch and the Wajax knuckle boom. This does free up 12 feet of bed space on the rear of the frame for the interchangable 'Modules'.
Brilliant!Hmmmm, I finished painting the cab today and started to hook up the steering, when all of a sudden it hit me like a brick....I finally figured out why they use a different type of yoke for the steering stub shafts than for all the other driveshaft setups!!!
The yokes, that I got for my steering, were NOT the steering type yokes.
I always figured the reason for the clamping bolt and the corresponding groove in the shaft on the steering yokes were for added safety, so the yoke could not slip off the shaft even if the bolt were to come loose.
Since in my setup the stubshafts were "trapped", I felt that securing the yokes on the shafts with the set screws, using locktite would be more than sufficient.
What I did not think of, is the fact that on most transmission shaft installations the shaft only gets torque in one direction. This lets the yoke settle against the keyway and the set screw is there to keep it all tight.
On a steering stub shaft on the other hand, the torsional forces may alternate back and forth thousends of times, while driving down a bumpy road! It is then pretty easy to imagine, that over time the set screw even thought locktited in place, will start to wear in to the shaft and in the process letting the yoke develop play within the limitations of the keyway!
Thus the reason for the clamping bolt on a steering yoke. In addition to clamping around the shaft tightly, it is also situated at a 90 degree angle from the keyway, so it can tighten up any play in the keyway slot!
Anyway, for me it was back to the drawing board. I was able to "cannibalize" two steering yokes with a 1" bore from my old HEMTT cab, but I could not find a 1 1/4" bore steering yoke.
Luckily my set screw type 1 1/4" yoke had a lot of "meat" on the collar and I was able to machine the bolt hole and the surfaces for the bolt head and nut in to it. I then used the chop saw to cut the slot and make it in to a clamping type steering yoke.
Catastrophy avoided!!
Here are some pics of the new (and hopefully improved) steering setup and the painted cab.
Good to know that factoid for any future engineering. I built a 4x4 and used to wrong joints. That 4x4 is a memory now.
Ok, I'll admit I'm not 100% sure without seeing this first hand exactly the issue, However, the first picture attached here.... if those two U joints rotate the wrong direction, is that bolt and nut setup going to hit? It looks like if they both go clockwise about 30-40degrees they might hit, course they might miss, or not even work that way, but....Hmmmm, I finished painting the cab today and started to hook up the steering, when all of a sudden it hit me like a brick....I finally figured out why they use a different type of yoke for the steering stub shafts than for all the other driveshaft setups!!!
The yokes, that I got for my steering, were NOT the steering type yokes.
I always figured the reason for the clamping bolt and the corresponding groove in the shaft on the steering yokes were for added safety, so the yoke could not slip off the shaft even if the bolt were to come loose.
Since in my setup the stubshafts were "trapped", I felt that securing the yokes on the shafts with the set screws, using locktite would be more than sufficient.
What I did not think of, is the fact that on most transmission shaft installations the shaft only gets torque in one direction. This lets the yoke settle against the keyway and the set screw is there to keep it all tight.
On a steering stub shaft on the other hand, the torsional forces may alternate back and forth thousends of times, while driving down a bumpy road! It is then pretty easy to imagine, that over time the set screw even thought locktited in place, will start to wear in to the shaft and in the process letting the yoke develop play within the limitations of the keyway!
Thus the reason for the clamping bolt on a steering yoke. In addition to clamping around the shaft tightly, it is also situated at a 90 degree angle from the keyway, so it can tighten up any play in the keyway slot!
Anyway, for me it was back to the drawing board. I was able to "cannibalize" two steering yokes with a 1" bore from my old HEMTT cab, but I could not find a 1 1/4" bore steering yoke.
Luckily my set screw type 1 1/4" yoke had a lot of "meat" on the collar and I was able to machine the bolt hole and the surfaces for the bolt head and nut in to it. I then used the chop saw to cut the slot and make it in to a clamping type steering yoke.
Catastrophy avoided!!
Here are some pics of the new (and hopefully improved) steering setup and the painted cab.
They do rotate in opposite directions, but are 1 to 1 ratio. So if they rotate and miss, they will miss every time.
That is absolutely correct! I had some concerns about it myself, but the bolts are actually 90 degrees off from each other and they are not nearly as close as the photo would make you believe. Thanks everyone!
Ah yes, I apologize - I forgot the #1 rule of reading threads: when in doubt, go back and read the first post. In other words, Duh.
Sorry, I was not trying to be sarcastic Maddawg! It's all good, glad you like the build!
).
You are not kidding!!! It took me half a day to do the driver side!!! You have to remove EVERYTHING: dash, steering wheel, steering gear box, the mounting bracket for the steering components, a small cover plate on the left under the dash, the brake pedal assembly with bracket and the throttle pedal assembly with it's bracket.
Government contract - lowest bidder. Just reminding you.And this all on a brand new cab?!?! Where is Oshkosh's "quality control"?
That's not good. I just checked the pics of the cab I bought, it's inverted too.
