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Alternate spare tire stowage/mount suggestions?

OPCOM

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Thanks for the comments on the design so far. I am not a mechanical designer, I hope for more comments. Maybe someone runnig XLs or super singles and not using the normal spare mount will eventually design and build up such a mount. A "davit" it is called?

I was 'triangulating', which is about as much as I know. How should it have been drawn?

If the inner pipe were also the support pipe for the tire-lifting crane, then the davit could swing about somewhat independently of the crane, making the operation eaiser. The biggest other obstacles I see from my sketches are the mounting for the base of the supporting (inner) pipe. Maybe welding a plate to the bed that sticks out and slightly to the side? Maybe some attachment to the side of the bed for strength? I do not know. The crane would best be a simple kind with a crank winch

The front bumper mount is discouraging, for although it would be simpler, in Texas I think the tire would block too much radiator airflow.

I don't think an XL will fit under the bed in the back of the truck with my customized hitch. I couldn't bear to remove it, it's my first decent welding job, sort of my "welding exam". I don't own any gear to weld up and make anything like that. Even without that, I don't think there's enough room to allow for suspension travel?

I have considered the trailer issue.. Another issue for sure. I forced to, I could put the 'big' spare on the trailer temporarily? maybe.. A better solution would be to put the trailer spare in the trailer bed, at the front standing it up and making a bracket. When I use the trailer, I have the ATV and a set of ramps, said ATV has a 2500# winch that's big enough to help lift the tire into the trailer.

I don't want to have to rely on the trailer to haul the truck spare though.
 

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the long pc that runs at an angle from the top right to the lower left..... creating 2 triangles........ should end at the bottom right. so, where you have the mounting plate, add a vertical piece of tubing, and make that diagonal run trom the top (behind the plate) to the loer right at the hinge side, creating 3 triangles.
 

pa.rich

New member
I like the old M211 spare set up. you just need to roll the tire over, slip lugs of mt. thru holes, bolt on, flip up and fold swing bar in and bolt in place. No lifting, no crane, and its out of the way.The mount assembly just bolts to the side of the chassis. Real nice engineering. They should have kept that.However the M211 dueces only have one gas tank, but they were slightly larger than the M35's, The five tons have two tanks. I was thinking of eliminating one but I would like to keep everything original as possible.
 

BFR

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just my 2cents , but I would not want to have to transfer a 200-300 lb wheel & tire from one part to the next and line up lugs at roughly 7' off the ground.

I would rebuild the entire tailgate and incorporate the mount directly into the gate. Winch the tire up to the gate and then winch the gate closed.
 

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SasquatchSanta

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Mounting the spare near the rear of the truck would add some needed rear wheel traction on bobbed deuces. I had Rosie out yesterday during a snow storm. A little added weight on the back would be nice when the front hubs aren't engaged.

IMHO bobbed deuces with 5-ton rubber are too tall to conveniently haul much. My truck is mainly a hobby horse so I'm not concerned about a spare taking up cargo space.

I'm considering installing a small electric winch on the in-gate and carrying slider ramps that will fasten to the folded down tailgate to use to drag the spare up into the rear of the bed. In winter the spare could be bolted down flat on the floor of the rear of the cargo bed. In the summer it could be moved forward, possibly stood up, and bolted against the in-gate
 

gimpyrobb

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Earnie, why not put a second fuel tank in the bed. It would give you extra weight and distance if ever needed.
 

OPCOM

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So far Mangus idea and BFR drawing seem like alot of results for the least work and cost. With a shelter in the bed, anything sticking of the tailgate would have to be on the outside, that is aft of the gate. The radius of the big tire is about 22" or 24"?. So, the original spare tire winch could be done as shown. The triangular suppot structure would be necessary, considerins any bumping or offroad use.

The way the original winch works, the capturing nuts are tightened from above the wheel. Tightening would be even more necessary with the tire mounted vertically since the only thing holding it is the wire rope otherwise. A couple of large hand holes would need to be made in the semicircular plate so one could get at the nuts to tighten them. IIRC the way the winch is made, they need to be done with a wrench instead of a socket and extension because things are in the way. Also, the non-stock wheel for the wide tires has its center recesed quite a bit (from looking at OD Iron pictures) so that the winch assy might have to be modified in order for the winch pawl and the 'handle' to be accessible to be turned with the 4-way. Gringletaube's image shows it is not needed with his particular tires. Needs some thoughts on this aspect.
 

gimpyrobb

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Patrick, have you thought about one of those little 2000lb electric winches for this? $60 at Horrible freight. Lots less work on you. Also you could weld the nuts on the stock plate so there is room to move, and then cut a notch so the mount would slide into place ans stay there.
 

rmgill

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How about you slide the bed back by the width of the tire (12"?) and install an arm that has a hand winch to lift/lower the tire/arm up and down to the ground? That gives you space on the other side for a tool box just behind the cab too. Perhaps even space for a ladder so you can easily get on top of the shelter from the left side of the cab.
 

Armada

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What if you incorporate this type of arrangement to the swing out tire rack you are thinking about (see picture), for getting the spare on and off.
A 'trough' for the tire assembly to sit on and the 'ramp' that will release down to offload the tire and roll it back up. Rolling would be easier than lifting. It's going to be a beefy tire rack for sure.
 

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SasquatchSanta

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gimpyrobb sez:

Earnie, why not put a second fuel tank in the bed. It would give you extra weight and distance if ever needed.
At the price of fuel I don't know that I could afford to carry around extra fuel. <grinning>

Seriously ... I carry a 3500 W generator in the center of the front of the bed which complicates things. I did some measuring today and decided the spare is too tall to stand up in the bed. I don't want to lose my view through the back window. Therefore, the spare is destined to lay flat (bolted down) in the back of the bed.
 

Blythewoodjoe

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I have pondered this for a few days and have a suggestion. Perhaps a bad one, but here goes.

Move your fuel tank forward in place of the battery box. Move the battery box to the drivers side in place of the tool box. Move the generator to the old fuel tank spot. Put spare back in the original place. Most of this is bolt on and drilling. Like I said, it's just a thought.

Joe Trapp
 

alphadeltaromeo

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Thought...

Why not fab up a swing mount such as this one. Make it heavy duty to hold the weight of the large tire. Have it connect to the frame rail under one of the back sides of the deuce so it could swing out of the way of the tail gate when needed. I would also incorporate a simple crank mechanism like is on the regular spare tire carrier (you should have one when you removed it for the gen...I'm assuming) to lower and lift a tire back into place on it. If you make it to GA next year, I'll fab one up for you :) or you can just get it done locally.
 

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OPCOM

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RE: Thought...

I think the best shot so far has to involve the back of the tuck. In order to keep the tialgate free for use at any time, I am leaning towards the "early GM blazers, Ford broncos etc" general concept pictured a bit above, so that the spare can easily be swung clear of the gate at any time, perhaps by releasing only one pin. wish I had a CAD program.

On the other side, a friend gave me a 75 amp sears stick-welder. Runs on 120VAC. Last time I tried to weld tubing, I made holes..
 

spicergear

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How about slapping it on the passenger's side running board with a nice OD green ratchet strap, acknowledg the fact that you can't use that door, and call it a day knowing that you're done and not fabbing some mount to put a 300# tire and wheel way up in the air. Poof, your done.

*after finding a brand new F550 series wheel and tire in the middle of the road still bolted to the piece of steel that had broken off it's welds to it's mount...I'd go for simple. I turned around and went back to get it then stopped, on the highway so a group of bikers had to go around me instead of scattering for that. One person had hit it in the time it took me to turn around already.
 
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