Alternator fun....not

[derrickd95]

I looked through previous posts and did not find a thread that pertains to my problem. I did the testing with pulling the plug of the back of the alternators everything checked out ok until i got to the passenger side alternator the exciter wire has no voltage. Also both alternators are grounded to the intake not sure if this is ok? When I tested the batteries with the truck on the front battery is fine at 14.5 steady but the rear battery is at 12.6. Now on the inside of the truck gen1 and gen2 lights never come on. gen1 did after I pulled the plug off the alt but when I got home and stopped the truck after driving. I turned the key to the on position and again no light. Now to the volt gauge inside it is always in the yellow or the orange part never goes into the green. Also the gauge only works when the lever is pulled to the defroster when the lever is at heat or off there is no reading at all. I have never seen the gen2 light on ever. the whole reason for this was because the truck has a crappy rough idle and I think it might have to do with not getting the juice she needs. Thanks for the help I appreciate it.

Forgot to mention the previous owner installed a push button start. He said he couldnt find a replacement relay.

any wiring schematic is greatly appreciated im waiting for my t pub in the mail.

1985 m1009 cucv 6.2 diesel

 

[Warthog]

Man... I have never heard of this issue before....Hope you find the solution to the problem.

 

[Westech]

It sound s like your truck has been converted to 12V. At this point the factory wiring is not going to help you out much. If you look in the TM's you should find what you are looking for.

 

[derrickd95]

called the previous owner he never converted it to 12 volt. he owned it for six years and bought it from military before that

 

[Westech]

well if it is "military fresh" there is NO WAY the both alternators are grounded to the intake. You need to read the cucv Wiki. Both alternators are isolated grounds (the case is NOT grounded). The Alternators are wired in series to make the 24V (two 12 volt alternators).

 

[derrickd95]

he replaced an alternator and put 550cca batteries in it. and from what I just read the exciter wire has to have a working gen2 bulb. so both batteries should not have any grounds going to the intake?

 

[derrickd95]

So if I disconnect the ground from the drivers side and check my gen2 light in the dash my readings should be normal right?

 

[Westech]

dude.. you need to read the technical manuals and start tracing your wiring and the factory stuff. It sounds like your system has been changed big time, and its very hard to do wiring over a forum.
Look if both alts were grounded to the block just removing a ground is not going to fix it. If it were a isolated grounded case and the factory charging system if you were to ground the Passenger case there would be huge sparks and a good fire. Your system has been changed.

 

[derrickd95]

both alternators are 1105500 100a alternators some Im assuming because e you can use your drivers side alt on you passenger side like i have read on the forum that it should be ok to remove the ground on the drivers side and replace the gen2 bulb in the dash and get juice to the exciter. All the wiring is how the tech manuals say it should be except for the push button start switch the previous owner put in.

 

[notsosanestan]

If you're bulb is bad ur alternator won't charge. The ds is grounded to the intake pass is not

 

[derrickd95]

they have both alternators grounded on the intake but the pass side isnt getting power cause of the bulb not working so im hoping that when i take the ground wire off the pass side and replace the bulb this **** thing dont blow up or something.

 

[derrickd95]

took the ground off of the passenger side alt and checked the wiring I dont have that little brown wire like the drivers side does and there is a wire soldered on the back of the gen 2 light bulb the voltmeter in the dash still reads low until i floor it then stays in the center for the most part. when the truck is off it still reads voltage and bounces around the lower end of the the gauge and gauge still doesn't work when the selector on the heater is at off or heat. But it does run a little better.