snoplay
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just called and left a message with them about ordering one up!!
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Alternator just died
- Thread starter scottmh
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snoplay
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Mine is in the mail!!
scottmh
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Ok got the news from the alternator shop. Needs to be rewound, I told them not to bother. Looks like I am going with some kind of alternative. But the ones I saw listed in here were for the Multi-Fuel. Anyone know of one for the Cat? Doesn't the tach get its signal from the alternator?
scottmh
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What did you have to fab for brackets to make it work? Did you reuse the stock pulley?
I bought an off the shelf 7 groove pulley from spidermarine and they even installed it on the alternator before they shipped it. I can look up the number for the pulley tomorrow and it was $14.00 and a smaller diameter. The alternator spins faster and charges at idle. I also positioned the alternator to use the original length serpentine belt as well.
The bracket is a piece of 3/8-7/16" thickness angle iron from and old snow plow mounting bracket.
and the tube is a piece of tubing of about 5/8" inside diameter x 7/8" or 1" outside diameter tubing, it was the front standup tube housing a threaded rod on the hitch on an allis-chalmers 66 combine.
Here's what I did:
I moved the upper tension alternator bracket to the front of the mounting boss and drilled out the end of the bracket to fit the upper bolt on the alternator. The alternator and supplied pulley will track exactly correct like this. There is a 1/2" nut in there for the, just the right spot for the tracking of the alternator.
I then hung the alternator off of the bracket to determine that the alternator pulley was aligned with the crank and water-pump pulley and belt tensioner.
I then cut out the angle iron to the shape and drilled the mounting holes using the original bracket as a pattern and drilling jig, (I vice-gripped the original bracket to the angle iron).
I then cut out the notch to go around the outlet near the mounting pad for the alternator.
I then cut the tubing to approximate length and trued the ends on a lathe. I did that to make it pull on the alternator ears true. you don't need a lathe, a square and a sharp file will do the trick as well.
The alternator was set in the position that allowed the belt to give an appropriate amount of tension on the belt and track correctly. The belt is just a bit long but you can move the alternator until there is just the right sweet spot where the belt has enough tension to be correct and the tensioner will move and track correctly and hold the belt. A half inch breaker bar will fit on and move the tensioner well.
I kept installing the belt around the pulley (but did not allow full force of the belt on the pulley,held it with the breaker bar) to position the alternator until I found the spot.
I then observed the position of the alternator and took the measurements of how deep the bracket needs to be from the mounting pad on the engine and the fore and aft position of the tubing for the final mounted position of the alternator.
I adjusted the size of the angle bracket and position of the tube and welded it in position.
I mounted the alternator and hooked up the one wire to the charging post and taped off the rest of the wires.
I hope this helps.
Here is a link to the pulley. This company is a good company as well.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partno241751.aspx
spider cross reference and had the pulley.
The bracket is a piece of 3/8-7/16" thickness angle iron from and old snow plow mounting bracket.
and the tube is a piece of tubing of about 5/8" inside diameter x 7/8" or 1" outside diameter tubing, it was the front standup tube housing a threaded rod on the hitch on an allis-chalmers 66 combine.
Here's what I did:
I moved the upper tension alternator bracket to the front of the mounting boss and drilled out the end of the bracket to fit the upper bolt on the alternator. The alternator and supplied pulley will track exactly correct like this. There is a 1/2" nut in there for the, just the right spot for the tracking of the alternator.
I then hung the alternator off of the bracket to determine that the alternator pulley was aligned with the crank and water-pump pulley and belt tensioner.
I then cut out the angle iron to the shape and drilled the mounting holes using the original bracket as a pattern and drilling jig, (I vice-gripped the original bracket to the angle iron).
I then cut out the notch to go around the outlet near the mounting pad for the alternator.
I then cut the tubing to approximate length and trued the ends on a lathe. I did that to make it pull on the alternator ears true. you don't need a lathe, a square and a sharp file will do the trick as well.
The alternator was set in the position that allowed the belt to give an appropriate amount of tension on the belt and track correctly. The belt is just a bit long but you can move the alternator until there is just the right sweet spot where the belt has enough tension to be correct and the tensioner will move and track correctly and hold the belt. A half inch breaker bar will fit on and move the tensioner well.
I kept installing the belt around the pulley (but did not allow full force of the belt on the pulley,held it with the breaker bar) to position the alternator until I found the spot.
I then observed the position of the alternator and took the measurements of how deep the bracket needs to be from the mounting pad on the engine and the fore and aft position of the tubing for the final mounted position of the alternator.
I adjusted the size of the angle bracket and position of the tube and welded it in position.
I mounted the alternator and hooked up the one wire to the charging post and taped off the rest of the wires.
I hope this helps.
Here is a link to the pulley. This company is a good company as well.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partno241751.aspx
spider cross reference and had the pulley.
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scottmh
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Awesome info! What about the tach? Did it still function?
machinist75
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No problem, glad to help. It was an easy install wasn't it? I got them too sell me a free rebuild kit with my order.
welldigger
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Tmamerica has a kit for the a3/m109a4 to use a Delco 27si.
scottmh
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Yep chatting with him now. Prolly gunna go with the dual kit. Still trying to figure out the tach
welldigger
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I can't remember how the tach reads rpm on the cat motor. Haven't had to mess with that yet on my buddies bobber.
The tach functions fine. It doesn't seem to use the alternator for the signal. I never looked but I wonder if the tach is a mechanical tach and runs off of a cable.
I'm in the GREEN! Installed the Wol-Tec alt today, was pretty easy but had stupid problems getting to that front/bottom bolt. Then found that the ground wire was not making continuity with the frame= probably what caused the presto alt to not work correctly...
Happy, happy, happy
Happy, happy, happy
machinist75
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Good deal!
welldigger
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Finally got my new alternater installed in my a2. I used tmamerica's bracket kit and a Delco 27si alternater. Overall I'm pretty happy. Installation was pretty strait forward. Other than getting the old lower bracket off the only thing that had be scratching my head was how to bore out the old pulley to fit the new alternater. Turns out I was way over thinking it. After discussing it with a buddy I chucked a step bit into my drill press and got a nice pilot hole started. I then used a 7/8" silver and dimming bit to finish boring it out. No run out in the pulley to speak of.
I also have tmamerica's 12v main bracket installed for when I add a second 12v alternater down the road.
I also have tmamerica's 12v main bracket installed for when I add a second 12v alternater down the road.
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scottmh
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Waiting on my brackets from tmamerica to come in. Also going with a dual setup on my 109A4
welldigger
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The only thing I don't like about the set up is the 27si doesn't put out much at idle. I expected this but the stock gen would stay in the "green" on my guage whereas the 27si stays in the upper third of the yellow until it gets to about 1300 rpm. Then it will climb up into the green. Not really a problem since these trucks use almost no power to run. I also don't idle my truck much other than warm up and cool down periods. So again, not really a problem as much as something to be aware of so you don't think there is a problem when there isn't.
I had my local alternater shop build the alternater for me and it puts out 70amps. Which is a bit more than the presolite unit I took off. When I get around to adding a 12v alternater I'm going to have them install the smallest pulley they can get me. I will use much more 12v at idle than 24v. Again, I'd say overall I'm very happy. At least considering the money I have in this setup versus buying a replacement presolite or s.a.w unit.
I had my local alternater shop build the alternater for me and it puts out 70amps. Which is a bit more than the presolite unit I took off. When I get around to adding a 12v alternater I'm going to have them install the smallest pulley they can get me. I will use much more 12v at idle than 24v. Again, I'd say overall I'm very happy. At least considering the money I have in this setup versus buying a replacement presolite or s.a.w unit.
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The alternator I got for my M813 puts out about 80amps but it is not on yet so I don't know what it will do at idle. I have TM's bracket on one of my Deuces and it works fine but I never paid attention to idle on it either.
Easiest way to enlarge the hole on the original pulley is give it to your Brother and have him run it on a several hundred thousand dollar CNC lathe at work.
I have an extra pulley sitting here and I'm going to see if I can just get one that is smaller in diameter.
Easiest way to enlarge the hole on the original pulley is give it to your Brother and have him run it on a several hundred thousand dollar CNC lathe at work.
I have an extra pulley sitting here and I'm going to see if I can just get one that is smaller in diameter.
scottmh
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I bought a 27si but it did not come with a Fan anyone know where I can source a fan for the 27si?
welldigger
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Try your local alternater shop.