alternator question for CUCV

[superB]

I have a Chevy 1 -1/4 ton CVCU pickup with 6.2 diesel it has two alternators. I replaced the one on right side it had an isolated ground a year ago. The driver side ( left). now needs replacing, question is are both alternators an isolated ground? Regards, Super B

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

The driver side does not need to be isolated ground. Have you considered rebuilding? It's easy to do with common tools. Took me about 90 minutes the first time, including pulling it out and putting it back in, and carefully going one step at a time with my oldest boy. Really shouldn't take more than 45 minutes. Parts are available from one of our members here (Tow4, I think?) or from ASPwholesale.com, who is a sponsor here.

 

[superB]

Marcus, thank you for your prompt reply. The issue I have is that I pulled the driver side alternator off and took it to auto zone for exchange, they told me that they can get one just like it no problem, but they would need to order it and it would take over the weekend. I left my old alternator with them and the new one is very different and the old one is gone. no core now. I can get one from amazon with an isolated ground and I did not know if it would be work. From the pictures it appears the same as what I had with the isolated ground pin .Regards Super B

 

[joshuak]

x2 on Tow4's kit, good stuff. Found here.

Step by step instructions are found in the TM-20 and a good thread to motivate you: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?146703-CUCV-Alternator-Rebuild&highlight=

 

[Warthog]

superB, while it is too late for you, for others, NEVER use your original alternators as a core. They are hard to come by and other members will pay more that you will get for a core charge.

With parts still available and the ease of rebuilding them, there is no need to let the parts house have them.

 

[superB]

Thanks to all for intell.. It has been an intresting month so far, last week I learned about Russel hoses for oil coolers, almost the hard way,but all turned out well. live and learn. Regards, SuperB

 

[cucvrus]

Leidy Repair Auto Electrical Service





Address: 2427 S 5th Ave, Lebanon, PA 17042


Phone717) 949-2905

I would like to let you know that this business builds new CUCV alternators and starters. They rebuild many of the parts for Indiantown Gap. I also get new alternators and any I find at the YOUPULLIT on old buicks and pontiacs rebuilt into CUCV alternators. They can convert 12 volt 6.2 starters to 24 and vise versa. Just thought I would mention it. I have been using them for over 20+ years business and personal.

 

[superB]

Well the alternator saga continues; It all started when I was getting a reading of 16 volts on the volt meter (Aftermarket),and the red no charge light glowed dimly showing the left (driver side.) not charging. when I turned the headlights on the volts when to 14 and red light when out. Next day I checked connections on both alternators all was good there. Started it up all was good 14 volts lights off.. after about 10 minutes, and everything came up to temp the volt meter started to bounce back and fouth between 14 and 16 volts left alt. showing no charge again dimly. turned lights on dropped back to 14 volts. Pulled volt reading at right alt. read 17 volts, took reading on left same thing at alt.+ same 17 volts?? changed the right alt. nothing changed, thinking bad regulator on the right alt. took it off and when to alternator shop. alternator checked out to be OK. the shop changed the regulator and replaced the rear bearing while he had it apart...... I have not installed the right alt. as yet now I am thinking something wrong with the resistor bars on the firewall I have no idea how to check them.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Let your alternators run a bit under fast idle.

There is probably nothing wrong with your alternators, they are just charging the batteries from when it wasn't before. The driver's side belt is somewhat a pain (at least for me) to tighten, so at normal idle you will have a red Gen 1 light and soon as you give it some throttle it will go out.
Remember alternators have different rpm's at which they actually start really charging the system, not all of them charge at idle, some don't charging until they hit 1800 rpms.

The resistor block on your firewall has nothing to do with your charging system, it is the step down resistor for your glow plugs, taking the 24 volts and stepping it down to 12 volts. Remember, not everything on the truck is 24 volts.

Try retightening the alternator if the red light bothers you, but it is a fairly common issue to have a red light dimly lit at idle, but nothing to really worry about.

 

[richingalveston]

Go ahead and rebuild them both, it is cheap insurance.

However, it was probably the regulator sometimes they work fine until the get some heat in them and then they start acting up. When you take it to test, they don't ever put a load on it long enough to build any heat and thus they send you back with something you think is working and it is not. Put it back in and run it to see what happens. But once one goes, the other is probably not far behind so do them both while it is apart.

The rebuild is easy I did both of mine. There are links on this site somewhere to places that sell you the kit. I believe I did both of mine for less than
$50.