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Alternator squeek

Hasdrubal

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Vancouver BC
Just started hearing it today at idle. Is this a symptom of one of the bearings going out? Belts are new and tight, its definitely Alt 2. Was last rebuilt March 2005. About 90,000 miles on engine since. Anyone hear this before.
 

Hasdrubal

New member
690
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0
Location
Vancouver BC
Even when my old batteries way back were dying, I never had an alt squeek.

Looking at some pictures of 27si components, the front bearing is double sealed. How would the lube get in there? I'll probably just pull it and get it rebuilt, the diode trio has been causing a minor Alt 2 flash at idle for quite some time.
 

jgleasonraptor350

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Location
Ohio
Had it on my 1009 a few months back when it started to get real cold at night. It stopped once the motor got warm but some spray on belt dressing fixed the squeak altogether.
 

glassk

Active member
998
6
38
Location
Hampton, GA
Excessive generator noise is usually the result of
one or more of the following:
1. Brush "squeal" caused by a hard spot on one
of the brushes of rough or dirty slip rings. To check
for brush "squeal," remove generator drive belt and
spin generator drive pulley by hand. Lift brushes off
slip rings and spin drive pulley again. If noise disappears,
clean and inspect slip rings and replace
brushes if worn.
2. Dry or rough bearings in end frame.

taken from GM material








 

Hasdrubal

New member
690
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0
Location
Vancouver BC
Just put it back in, full rebuild for $80, great price. All new components, case sandblasted, pulley and fan painted. Confirmed, bearing was drying out. Not bad service, considering 90,000 miles since last rebuild.
 

Hasdrubal

New member
690
4
0
Location
Vancouver BC
So..I still have a flickering Alt 2 light at idle, even when driving at low throttle I can see it faintly. As well, the voltmeter which always sat on the left of the hash line, which is 28.8 V, now sits the equivalent of one voltmeter needle width to the left. Since the yellow/green line is 26 V, it is charging, but I'm puzzled by the different reading. Raining out now, so didn't get a chance to take some readings with a multi-meter. Called the shop, they want me to bring the truck by tomorrow to run some tests.

If I need to take Alt 2 off and leave it at the shop, can I still drive the truck with all the wires wrapped up in electrical tape?
 
Last edited:

Hasdrubal

New member
690
4
0
Location
Vancouver BC
So..not getting any any love from the Troglodyte at the alt shop. I'm done with them. When I took it in, I explained my Alt light flashing symptom and asked specifically that they replace the diode trio, rectifier, regulator etc..as well as the usual bearings, brushes and anything else that needs doing. I was surprised when he only asked me for $80 as 9 years ago his brother charged me $140. He assured me it was all done. OK then, hook it back up, Alt output is 14.2V, which I'm told is within spec although the volt meter shows a slightly lower reading. The Alt 2 light now flashes even more..like its doing morse-code at idle and lower throttle settings. Not happy about this. Took the truck back, let them test it. Its good they say, the flashing light is "something they sometimes do". Appears to have a new regulator and rectifier, from what I can see through the case.

Spoke to the tech guy in back, he just said there wasn't anything wrong with the alt when I brought it in, besides the bearings. Discussed the diode trio..he was adamant it can't be the cause of the flashing light. Asked them if they replaced it, just got a blank look. Maybe they put the wrong parts in or they're faulty. So, I'll have to do this myself. Instead of ordering a kit, I would like to just buy the few component I'll need;diode trio, regulator and rectifier. Anyone have the exact part numbers for these? And are our rectifiers positive ground or negative?
 

doghead

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Staff member
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Negative ground(technically) but they are installed isolated from ground.
 
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