Am I getting a good deal?

[JO-0321]

Hey all…I’ve been wanting to pick up a hmmwv for quite a while now for the nostalgia of having something I sat in over in Iraq for a chunk of my life. I’ve shy’d away from the auctions as buying something without seeing it first seemed a bit risky to me.

I found one for sale a few hundred miles away that I’m going to pick up in a couple weeks and I was hoping to get some thoughts on whether it’s a good deal or not. Here’s some details:

2009 M1123 USMC
6.5L
Transmission w/OD and park
Only 18 miles since IROAN
Already titled and registered so that should be quick and easy to transfer
The only thing reported wrong with it is some injector lines leaking
2 door version with troop carrier cover included
Body and chassis looks really good
Paying $10K

Looking at govPlanet, similar rigs are going for an average of about 10-12K (before any tax/fees/etc), but all in a bit rougher shape and with that unknown factor of buying without actually seeing it in person first…not to mention the hassle of having to deal with getting it titled.

I feel like it’s a pretty good deal…any thoughts?

 

[Mogman]

Welcome to the forum!!

 

[NDT]

Sounds good to me. GP is a pig in a poke, if the truck doesn't run, you could be replacing an engine.

 

[mgFray]

Seems decent. But expect $10k in parts and repairs on it. Seriously, small line leaks can be a symptom of other parts being worn out.

if you can handle that, go for it!

 

[Coug]

Don't trust the 2009 build date; always go by serial number for everything. Typically when they go through IROAN or other resets they get a new tag with just the rebuild date, and not the original build date.

As for the price, $10k for a titled runner is a pretty good deal. A couple years ago it would be considered a screaming deal, but not sure what the current market is like or how it's changed since I bought mine (rebuilt in 2010 and I paid about $20k by the time I got it home, plus a few thousand more to get it legal)

 

[JO-0321]

Don't trust the 2009 build date; always go by serial number for everything. Typically when they go through IROAN or other resets they get a new tag with just the rebuild date, and not the original build date.

How do you determine build date from the serial?

 

[JO-0321]

Thanks all for the input. Sounds like I’m at least doing pretty good on this deal. I’m sure I’ll update somewhere in here along the line as I learn and go through this process. Pretty exciting! Can’t wait to get tinkering!

Not sure if I’m more excited about getting it back into original condition or if I want to bust out the welder and make it into something super cool. Decisions decisions!

 

[Mogman]

How do you determine build date from the serial?

There is a sticky near the top of the HMMWV forum for serial number/year of manufacture
Also what the odometer says means almost nothing in the HMMWV world as the speedometers are swapped out very often.
Take your time and look it over very carefully.
If you decide to buy it the first thing to do is change ALL fluids and filter despite what the seller says.
If you want to drive it on the street you will 90% likely to need to replace the tires no matter how "nice" they look, a nice set of NOS tires will cost around 1-2K
If the fuel is leaking into the engine valley it is 99% it is a bad injection pump and not "leaking injection lines" and that will cost around 2-3K to fix.
Rain water builds up in the valley over time and corrodes out components on the bottom of the injection pump.
On the A2 the half shafts which quite often need to be replaced are around $350 ea.
So you can see how the costs can add up rather quickly, so the estimates of another 10K as mentioned before can be very realistic.
The seller very likely is trying to make a quick buck as a business or some individual that has come to the realization as to how much it will actually cost to get the HMMWV road worthy.
I do not mean to rain on your parade but please go into this with open eyes as far as the cost of ownership of a Humvee...

 

[Coonass77]

I'm far from an expert, but I've bought and sold a few HMMWVs and $10k sounds like a suspiciously good deal. I'm not familiar with the Idaho market, but that truck (based on your description) would sell for close to double that around where I'm at, and most other places I've seen. Smoking deals can be found though and hopefully you're the beneficiary of one. Good luck!

 

[98G]

Mine's a 6.2 3L80, nothing at all special about it, and I wouldn't consider taking $10k for it, even if I were hurting for funds.

I've also driven mine all over the country (AZ, TX, NM, LA, OK, NE, WY, IA, SD, KS, MO, IL, FL, AL, GA, TN, KY, more than once) without issue. Everything works.

I think you want a definitive diagnosis and a solid plan on the fuel leak before you take the plunge.

 

[Mullaney]

Hey all…I’ve been wanting to pick up a hmmwv for quite a while now for the nostalgia of having something I sat in over in Iraq for a chunk of my life. I’ve shy’d away from the auctions as buying something without seeing it first seemed a bit risky to me.

I found one for sale a few hundred miles away that I’m going to pick up in a couple weeks and I was hoping to get some thoughts on whether it’s a good deal or not. Here’s some details:

2009 M1123 USMC
6.5L
Transmission w/OD and park
Only 18 miles since IROAN
Already titled and registered so that should be quick and easy to transfer
The only thing reported wrong with it is some injector lines leaking
2 door version with troop carrier cover included
Body and chassis looks really good
Paying $10K

Looking at govPlanet, similar rigs are going for an average of about 10-12K (before any tax/fees/etc), but all in a bit rougher shape and with that unknown factor of buying without actually seeing it in person first…not to mention the hassle of having to deal with getting it titled.

I feel like it’s a pretty good deal…any thoughts?

.
Welcome to the Outfit!

I have to agree with the guys... That seems like an awful good deal at $10k. Leaking fuel hoses is a regular thing for a truck that age. Especially one that sat outside in the heat for maybe a couple years. Time and hose and clamps should solve that problem but it won't happen without your help. I suggest that maybe you look for another member that is near you who would be willing to go with you to look at the vehicle. Or post something here asking for eyes to go with you and look.

Good hunting on your quest for a HMMWV!
Again, Welcome to the group...

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Pictures are worth a thousand words….

 

[JO-0321]

If the fuel is leaking into the engine valley it is 99% it is a bad injection pump and not "leaking injection lines".

The seller very likely is trying to make a quick buck...

I do not mean to rain on your parade but please go into this with open eyes as far as the cost of ownership of a Humvee...

So, the seller had a potential buyer who was supposedly a diesel mechanic that looked it over well. He was the one who determined the that it was the injector return lines...but who knows!

I'm not a big engine guy...I assume the "engine valley" is the area on top of the engine between the two valve covers, yeah? I'll definitely look that area over if I'm assuming the right location.

Regarding the seller...I get it, you never really know...but I get a good vibe from this dude. He's an older gentleman who had a change in health status so he doesn't have the energy to do the work on this rig, or use it the way that he had planned.

No rain on this parade...I'm fully aware of the potential costs involved here! I brought an umbrella......aaaaand my wife makes a lot more money than me!

 

[JO-0321]

I suggest that maybe you look for another member that is near you who would be willing to go with you to look at the vehicle. Or post something here asking for eyes to go with you and look.

Thanks! That's a great idea!

 

[JO-0321]

There is a sticky near the top of the HMMWV forum for serial number/year of manufacture

Serial number is 187240...definitely not a 2009. (I got the 2009 from the photo of the title the seller sent me) I couldn't find anything definitive for that serial number on that sticky thread though. One guy with a similar serial was assuming a 1998, but got no confirmation.

If it is a 1998-ish, should that be a red flag at all?

 

[SmartDrug]

I have serial number 183XXX M1123, she took some sorting out when I got her, but I put 2,000 miles on her last year with no hiccups.

This era/model may be missing some of the nicer features- rear fender AC, the hard top, turbocharger, winch, etc. but they’re light weight, simple, easy to wrench on, and fun as hell with the doors off. It will take some wrenching to get it up and running, but I would buy mine again in a heartbeat.

 

[Mogman]

Serial number is 187240...definitely not a 2009. (I got the 2009 from the photo of the title the seller sent me) I couldn't find anything definitive for that serial number on that sticky thread though. One guy with a similar serial was assuming a 1998, but got no confirmation.

If it is a 1998-ish, should that be a red flag at all?

In the sticky it is clearly a 1999

 

[Mogman]

So, the seller had a potential buyer who was supposedly a diesel mechanic that looked it over well. He was the one who determined the that it was the injector return lines...but who knows!

I'm not a big engine guy...I assume the "engine valley" is the area on top of the engine between the two valve covers, yeah? I'll definitely look that area over if I'm assuming the right location.

Regarding the seller...I get it, you never really know...but I get a good vibe from this dude. He's an older gentleman who had a change in health status so he doesn't have the energy to do the work on this rig, or use it the way that he had planned.

No rain on this parade...I'm fully aware of the potential costs involved here! I brought an umbrella......aaaaand my wife makes a lot more money than me!

If the fuel leak is outside the valve covers then it is likely the fuel return lines, not a big issue

 

[JO-0321]

In the sticky it is clearly a 1999

Okay…I have no idea how I missed that. For some reason last time I only saw the second post with 2006+. Anyway…thanks for pointing that out, I see the whole post now.

 

[BKubu]

I understand your interest in learning the correct year of manufacture. Are you trying to tag it as the correct year of manufacture? This may be difficult depending upon your state. Many state DMVs tend to want to keep it titled as it says on the existing title, and you may raise red flags if you volunteer to them that the year of "manufacture" is incorrect.