anal-retentive oil-change question

[808pants]

I'm doing an entirely-too-rare oil-change on my multifuel. Either I forgot this last time, or it's something new: with the OF canisters off, the open casting reveals what looks like it might be a quart or so of pooled oil - that can't easily be drained from those deep casting recesses. Since my oil became highly diluted with fuel (that'd be another post) I'd really like to get rid of ALL old oil before refilling. There's an all-bu-impossible to reach pipe-plug with a 7/16" square-drive head protruding from low down on that same casting that I've been trying to remove to see if it will allow the remaining pooled oil - no wrench I own will get on it with sufficient torque, behind the frame and steering box, etc.

Maybe this is something I should just forget about anyway - or maybe there's a better, more accessible block oil-drain point that would allow this and more thinned-out, nasty oil to drop out?

 

[Westech]

man its not worth the problems that might pop up..... put just enough oil to hit the dip stick, DO NOT Install the filters, just put the cans on, Start her up let her run for just a couple and shut her down. Drain the oil, install new filters, fill her with the correct amount of oil and go.

 

[stumps]

man its not worth the problems that might pop up..... put just enough oil to hit the dip stick, DO NOT Install the filters, just put the cans on, Start her up let her run for just a couple and shut her down. Drain the oil, install new filters, fill her with the correct amount of oil and go.

I am sure that I cannot recommend that! The cans get all sorts of dirt around the outside of the filter. Do you really want to pump that junk into your bearings?

I would replace the filters, and then follow your recommendation... Assuming that a cup full of diesel diluted oil (out of 6 gallons) bothered me... it wouldn't.

-Chuck

 

[Recovry4x4]

Turkey baster?

 

[ODdave]

Turkey baster?

should be plentyfull now that everyone is finishing up the leftovers.

 

[WillWagner]

Turkey baster?

I like that. Actually, it works very well. We do that on the 15L engines when we do a head gasket or anything that requires the head coming off. Truthfully, I wouldn't worry about it. Even if you get it out of that cavity, it is still in all the oil gallies. Slam some new filters on it and run it.

 

[python86]

You could also use one of those topsiders for sucking the oil out of boats. They work really nice!

 

[Westech]

I dont know about you stumps but if there is dirt around the cans I wash them off first. I dont change oil in dirt. And if there was dirt there and you installed the filters you still get dirt in the engine. If you have noting to say dont make stuff up just to disagree.

 

[808pants]

Having a break in the rain, I improvised before getting back and seeing these replies; thanks. Remembering that I had a surplus docs'-office type vacuum pump, I rigged it up to a big old jar (two holes in lid for tubing in/out) as a vacuum vessel, and then sucked all the crud out of the voids. It wasn't much, as you all thought - a bit more than half a quart - but my oil level had been SERIOUSLY raised (thinned, too of course) by fuel that had apparently trickled into the cylinders from a temp gravity-feed tank (seems it was fighting the return flow by being well above the normal tank height, and/or this config was allowing it to siphon back into the IP and somehow into the cylinders, then presumably leaking down into the oil pan.) A few incredibly wet black gooey startups during that temp-tank use made me spin out that theory. Anyway, I hated the idea of not getting out all the visible pooled oil, at least.

And yes, that's at least the third turkey-baster use that one might think of.

BTW, I'm thinking that to minimize dry startup effects, it might be at least slightly better than dry-starting to key-crank it over - as long as it's not too long in doing so - until the pressure comes up, before actually letting it start. I'd noticed that my oil pressure usually rises pretty fast normally, just from cranking. That way, there wouldn't be combustion-strength loads on the pistons/crank while those bearings are dry, though the cylinders would probably see the same types of wear as your basic dry-start. If I had spark-plugs to take out, I'd do that, too...

 

[Westech]

um.... to let you know that was not the cause of your fuel addition. The FDC is leaking or the flam heater valve. The injectors open with the help of 2500 PSI of fuel. The only way you got that high of PSI with a gravity feed is if that tank was on the moon.

 

[stumps]

um.... to let you know that was not the cause of your fuel addition. The FDC is leaking or the flam heater valve. The injectors open with the help of 2500 PSI of fuel. The only way you got that high of PSI with a gravity feed is if that tank was on the moon.

Agreed!

Could also be the O-ring on the IP's secondary fuel pump. The truck wouldn't idle if the injectors leaked badly enough to dilute the crankcase oil through the cylinders.

-Chuck

 

[808pants]

um.... to let you know that was not the cause of your fuel addition. The FDC is leaking or the flam heater valve. The injectors open with the help of 2500 PSI of fuel. The only way you got that high of PSI with a gravity feed is if that tank was on the moon.

I see your point, and that kept nagging at me - but then again, what's the explanation for the horrifying, knocking-irregularly-max-high-revving cold starts - each time blowing out black, wet fuel, leaving stains all over whatever happened to be in the general area of the exhaust, along with the way-above-normal oil level? The only times this high-rev startup occurred, I had strung up a temporary fuel tank (which did have a return-fuel provision) - it had worked fine a day or so before these massive overfueling events. On first use, I had run the engine on that setup for long enough to move it across the yard. A day or so later, I'd started up the engine for some purpose on the same temp tank, and all **** would break loose. I'd shut down as quickly as I could, let my heart rate drop, and then timidly restart it a minute or two later, not having found anything really 'wrong,' and... it would run fine. A few days later, same sequence. What else about that simple tank change could make such a drastic change in startup? Seemed to me that a fuel overload must somehow have been actually getting into the cylinders in order to blow out the exhaust still wet - huge smoky clouds - and cause the scary high revs, right? (That being said, I know nothing about the fuel density compensator function or flame heater valve, and think these might even not exist on my tropical version, which has never left Hawaii.)

 

[jaxsof]

808, your supposed to crank it with the fuel off before starting, anyway, just to make sure you dont have a hydro lock condition. And always better to crank for pressure on a fresh oil change. Hope you dont have anything serious going on there.