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Another “Hard to Start” Thread

Onetrackmind

New member
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Allen, Tx
Hey all...brand new M998 owner and I also have starting issues. I’m hoping for some guidance. I have also downloaded the TMs and searched quite a bit on SS for answers...still scratching my head though.

First start of the morning takes a while, but subsequent starts are a breeze (it’s hot in TX). Symptoms:

No Wait light at all...ever
No battery draw when switched to run and definitely no cycling
Takes a lot of cranking in the morning
Lots of white smoke while cranking
All 8 GPs failed an ohm test in the head
One GP has a severely bent connector
The three GPs that I tried to remove were swollen

Here is what I have done. Disconnected the Neg on batteries and then cleaned and lubed the cannon plugs on the KDS (it has a KDS S3 w a yellow band TSU). Cleaned and lubed the plug on the TSU. Found all of the grounds and cleaned/lubed them too. I plan on building a supplemental grounding harness in the next few days and have already ordered new GPs and a removal tool. I also took the Interstate batteries that are in it out and had them tested at the parts store. They tested out great, but now that I think about it...they didn’t load test them.

My question is this. It seems like I should probably replace the KDS and TSU as well...probably fried. Which S3 start box should I get? Are the Nartron and KDS equivalents? Or is one better than the other? Also, can the KDS be analyzed by testing equipment for civilian cars?

Thanks in advance!





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Last edited:

Onetrackmind

New member
6
0
1
Location
Allen, Tx
I had a chance to pull the GPs and install the Kascar grounding harness this morning and I had hoped that things would improve. Unfortunately, I am getting a constant stream of 4 volts to the GP boots. Not 24 like I had hoped and it doesn't seem to ever drop off (I waited five minutes, then checked again...still 4 volts).

I went ahead and pulled the KDS S3 out of the HV thinking it may be full of water or have parts rattling around inside it. Nope.

Then I ran the GP flowchart out of the -20 Troubleshooting Guide. I checked continuity between Sockets A and B on the engine connector harness, which has continuity. I then checked between B and and the GP controller harness 3...then A and 6. I have good continuity in the wiring, so the guide says to replace the GP Controller. I have the Yellow Band TSU and the KDS S3 2700. Should I just get a new Yellow TSU and hope my S3 is still good?

---OR---

Is it a forgone conclusion that I need a new box as well? I talked to Kascar and Erik's Surplus...both say there is a Nationwide backorder on KDS boxes right now.

Thanks for any insight you may have.
 
Last edited:

ikoinu

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
151
54
28
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Congratulations on your purchase!

So with the existing control box does the vehicle run well once you get through the startup? Any other issues?

Like you, I was having issues starting because my ESS was sending 23v constant to my glow plugs

If it does run well, I'd suggest breaking the unreliable controller reliance by installing a push button glow plug switch. My M998 is my dd and after doing this I have never had an issue.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?174509-Manual-Glow-Plug-Control-Instructions&highlight=
 
Last edited:

Onetrackmind

New member
6
0
1
Location
Allen, Tx
Thanks for the reply. I put in a grounding harness and already have a new KDS S3 at the house, but I won’t be home until tomorrow to install it. So I am stuck w it regardless as I’m pretty sure no one would accept a return on it.

I will definitely keep this in mind if I continue to have trouble with it. It’s a great idea!


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