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Another HF54 conversion

cjtroutt

CW2 26 BDE HHC S6
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C.G. JMTC MICHIGAN
I'm not really happy with the pump assembly that I got so I don't want to send you there.
I the mount and pump what I was interrested I have not been able to find one yet as for a pump I have rebuilt. as it fits the front of the mulity fuel engine.
And I hate to scrap it to install a cummins I just scrap the hole truck it is not worth an engine swap.2cents
 

JasonS

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I the mount and pump what I was interrested I have not been able to find one yet as for a pump I have rebuilt. as it fits the front of the mulity fuel engine.
And I hate to scrap it to install a cummins I just scrap the hole truck it is not worth an engine swap.2cents
Most of the major military parts houses should have them (Boyce, Memphis, etc).
 

JasonS

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I finally got back to the power steering after several weeks. During that time, all of the air had worked out of the system resulting in a normally working system. I did replace the 1kpsi pump with a 1.5kpsi pump purchased of off ebay, though, to increase available force. The mistake that I originally made is trying to work the air out with the steering linkage connected. Because of the relatively long pitman arm, the box didn't work through its entire range of motion; leaving air in the system. I bled the system without the pitman arm, connected it up, and it worked perfectly. A great mod.
 

Trango

Member
735
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Boulder, CO
This reminds me - I have a box of old steering parts - drag links, ball studs, and the like, that are remnants from the old steering projects I did on my old M35a2 (which eventually wore three different full steering setups!). I the steering on my new project is perfect, and so I'll never need to change it.

Would anyone want this box of goodies? I can take a picture if anyone's interested. I'll package it up and send it out for $20 (pays for my time, packaging, and hassle) plus shipping from my UPS account.

If at all interested, please shoot me an email or PM.

Best,
Bob
 

m-35tom

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eldersburg maryland
i have all these parts available seperately or as a kit, but keep in mind the HF54 is no longer considered a good choice because of the linear action control valve. that is really old school design. a modern rotary control valve will give much better response.

as for pump pressure there are only 2 ways to really know. make a test setup with a gauge, or pull the relief cartridge and see what is scribed on it. if you run your system without an external pressure bypass (outside of the pump) do not ever hold it at either stop for more than a few seconds (why would you anyway?) or it will get very hot very fast, unless you have the 3rd pump line run back to the bottom of the reservoir.
 

Heath_h49008

New member
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Really? I was planning on doing my upgrade with a HF54 and using the gamma goat column and wheel with your parts. I just wanted the extra clearance from going inside the frame.

Luckily, I have another whole winter to get parts and plan.

I'd love to hear more on the differences/benefits of each box.
 

m-35tom

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eldersburg maryland
the HF54 box was a good choice years ago, but it has a linear control valve. the shaft has to move in and out of the box to control flow and requires special consideration when building the lower steering shaft to accomadate this. i am told it just doesn't give as crisp control as a more modern box as the 710 or the box that was used on the canadian truck. even kia mounted their box on the outside. there are some other choices, but as long as the 710 is available it is what my kit is built around. all modern boxes have a rotary valve and a torsion shaft that twists when you turn the wheel. the size of this torsion shaft dictates the feel of the steering. (how hard or easily it steers)

tom
 

gringeltaube

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the HF54 box was a good choice years ago, but it has a linear control valve. the shaft has to move in and out of the box to control flow and requires special consideration when building the lower steering shaft to accomadate this.
Agreed! Towards the steering gear it takes a common U-joint and to the column, what's called a plunging tripod CV joint...(= $25)
i am told it just doesn't give as crisp control as a more modern box ....
That I don't know Tom... wishing we could meet one day, with our trucks and compare...:)


Just for fun: extracted text portions shown below are from two different products /TM's, but from the very same company...!

G.
 

Attachments

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
Agreed! Towards the steering gear it takes a common U-joint and to the column, what's called a plunging tripod CV joint...(= $25)
G.
While I have a slip joint in my system, there is enough slop in the gamma goat column that this really isn't required.
 

cidrich

Member
115
2
18
Location
lexington, NC
I have installed 2 710 boxes and am VERY happy with both. If I ever do another one, witch might not be to long from now, It will have a 710 box also.
 

m-35tom

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While I have a slip joint in my system, there is enough slop in the gamma goat column that this really isn't required.
i think you will find this is a big issue. if you move the column up or down, it will steer the vehicle. not good. the upper column should have almost no play, it must all be in a special joint at the steering box.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
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Location
Eastern SD
i think you will find this is a big issue. if you move the column up or down, it will steer the vehicle. not good. the upper column should have almost no play, it must all be in a special joint at the steering box.
Sorry, but it doesn't work that way and you most certainly won't steer the vehicle left or right simply by pulling the column up or down. The truck from which I pulled the steering parts used a simple slip joint; nothing special. Whether the linear movement of the steering shaft is taken up the by the slip joint or the whole shaft moving in the column makes no difference in this case.
 
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JasonS

Well-known member
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Location
Eastern SD
I get questions from time to time asking about part numbers, etc for the steering box and drag link:

The junkyard ford power steering box had a 6-series u-joint and a hex slip shaft which was cut short when removed from the truck:
HF54 and u-joint.jpg

I separated the right hand yoke/ stub shaft from the yoke on the steering box.

The easiest and cheapest way for me to connect a gamma goat column to the HF54 was to use neapco tractor pto parts.
HF54 and gamma goat column.jpg

Go to your local tractor dealership (some NAPAs will have these, too) and get a 6-series yoke already welded to a 7/8 square shaft. The whole assembly will be 5 or 6 feet long. This yoke will be connected to the box.

You will need a slip yoke at the gamma goat column. I used neapco 15-5178. Sometimes, these show up on ebay for very low cost.

The stub shaft from the OEM ford box has male splines on one end and 7/8 hex on the other. The spline end fits into the female end of the gamma goat. I used neapco yoke 16-6303 which accepts the 7/8 hex short shaft in the gamma goat column and connects to the slip joint.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
This conversion requires tie-rod ends from two different series (sizes). I used right-hand ends for both because there is no need for periodic adjustment and it won't work loose. There area few different part numbers which you can use; I used whatever was cheapest on ebay. I used ES187R for the pitman arm and ES2036R for the steering arm.

The HF54 pitman arm tie-rod is larger than the stock M35 steering arm. I had a custom drag link made from 4340 steel to mate them together. Mild steel may be OK as well since the threaded portion of the tie rod ends are quite long.

No warranty expressed or implied and not responsible for typographical errors.:-D
 

Heath_h49008

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Kalamazoo/Mich
I was just talking about this with another forum member last week. I swear I will get my box and pump sooner or later and get this done.

Thank you a ton for the added information. It really is appreciated.
 

Seth_O

Member
625
7
18
Location
Sac CA
Thanks for all the good info, it's been tremendously valuable. I didn't see anywhere a part number for your reservoir w/filter. Do you have that?
 
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