Another Hitch Thread, Curt #15902 U-Weld It Kit

[74M35A2]

For just under $200 (free delivery), the Curt U-weld kit #15902 is a side plate mount and allows one to keep their pintle. Pic below of the #15902 I installed on my M925A2 last night. It has a class V rating @ 15,000lb tow capacity and 1500lb tongue weight. The side plates are 5/16" thick and the cross tube is 3/16" thick. It comes as a kit and you bolt the side plates on then weld the cross tube in place.

Also, the front hitch from a Ford Ranger (Curt #13019) will mount perfectly to the bottom side of the frame rails, but is about 3/4" shy on clearing the pintle, and may require grinding/driling/re-bolting of rivets found on the frame rail bottom. Could also fab a spacer to fill this void if wanting to keep your pintle, or if removing pintle, this hitch would then be a very nice direct bolt on fit.

 

[PowerstrokeNC]

This is cool, you got anymore pics? Of the sides? Mounting?

 

[Wildchild467]

Sweet hitch!

 

[74M35A2]

Side plate pic below. I have the side plates mounted in this position in order to place the receiver tube at the height and for-aft location that it is. I am also lazy and wanted to use the 4 frame bolts and holes on each side to mount it. The side plates have a curved lip to strengthen for side-to-side movement. The side plate notches are part of the Curt design, I did not cut them. I do have the plates lower and more rearward than I would have liked, but again, this was to place the receiver where I wanted it to retain the pintle. A do over I would purchase the cross tube and make my own side plates, but overall I am happy with this for just bolt and go and under $200.

 

[MtnSnow]

Yes more pictures from the side. Also what is the height of the 2" box from the ground?

 

[74M35A2]

Sorry that pic is posted sideways, kids were crying outside so I just hit ok. The 2" receiver tube measures 28", 29", and 30" up off the ground as on flat level pavement for my M925A2 with 14.00R20 single tires. 29" being the mid-point of the actual receiver tube, and 28" / 30" being the bottom and top edges of the receiver tube, respectively. The distance between the bottom of the pintle hitch and the top of the 2" receiver tube is about 1/8", which is right where I wanted it, as to not interfere with the normal operation of the pintle. The pintle can still rotate 360 degrees freely without contacting anything. Next up is a plug-and-play 24-12 volt trailer light converter from xm381.com, as I do tow multiple trailers, otherwise I would opt for the LED trailer light solution. The lowest drop ball mount from Curt puts the ball right where I need it for connectivity of my other toys.

More pics later, dark out now.

 

[MtnSnow]

Thanks for the info

 

[Vintage iron]

Subscribed

 

[Keith_J]

THANKS!!! That is just what mkcoen needs!!! And something I can build for him, that way he can tow his M37 easily.

5/16" end plates, looks like there is a flange on these. Probably A500 tube and A516-70 plate would work. I would want more meat around the top bolt holes, not an issue as I will mock up with MDF/hardboard.

 

[74M35A2]

Correct. As shipped, the hitch side plates reach to the center of the top set of bumper holes/bolts. It is really a matter of laziness, as one could drill 4 additional holes through the hitch side plates and frame (2 per side) and be done with it. I'm going to cut 5/16" washers in half, place them on the top portion, then cinch those down with thick washers over it.

This is all to use the hitch as-shipped, keep the pintle (free rotating), only be drilling into the hitch side plates and use the bumper mounting holes in the frame sides.

Also, if you are retaining the air connections at the rear, the passenger side will need an extension piece to clear the brake-bent hitch side plate 90 degree edge. The driver side does clear with no mods required. On the passenger side, I simply added a tee with a conventional air hose chuck and shut off valve on it to run air tools, since it is the emergency side air at that port (always live).