Another IP timing mark question

Thumper580

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Been reading here on IP timing.... Checked mine, visually, and it looks like it's retarded, toward passenger side. Seems like alot, looking at it compared to the scribe marks on the housing and IP. Aren't they pretty much lined up with each other. Thanks.IP Pump-1.jpg
 

osteo16

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How does it run ? Lean?rich? Normal? Aint broke, dont fix it ? Just throwing out some free cents...

Ocho Out
 

Barrman

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Yes, just looking at it one would think the timing was way retarded. I have done a couple of videos about this because it comes up a lot. Here is an intro about the marks and methods of checking the timing:



Here is one where I go through the same thing on a running engine:


Watch the videos and if you like them. Subscribe. I am retired now and need parts money. Basically, if all you have is a screw driver to check it with, do that test and see what happens. With a non turbo engine you will have to try very, very hard to do any more damage than making it run poorly. Play around with it and the butt test will be your final piece of data. Make it so you like the way it drives. However, if you are blowing black smoke and have a clean air filter. That is bad as exhaust gas temperatures will be higher than they should be. But, that is normally a fuel delivery setting, not timing. Have fun with it.
 

Thumper580

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Yes, just looking at it one would think the timing was way retarded. I have done a couple of videos about this because it comes up a lot. Here is an intro about the marks and methods of checking the timing:



Here is one where I go through the same thing on a running engine:


Watch the videos and if you like them. Subscribe. I am retired now and need parts money. Basically, if all you have is a screw driver to check it with, do that test and see what happens. With a non turbo engine you will have to try very, very hard to do any more damage than making it run poorly. Play around with it and the butt test will be your final piece of data. Make it so you like the way it drives. However, if you are blowing black smoke and have a clean air filter. That is bad as exhaust gas temperatures will be higher than they should be. But, that is normally a fuel delivery setting, not timing. Have fun with it.
So with the screwdriver.... If it cuts off it's too advanced, if it doesn't do anything it's retarded and if it shakes a little then smooths back out when you release the plunger it's ok?. My M1123 seems a little rough idling right now...
 

Barrman

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It might not start. But, damage wise at idle. No damage will result. Just do all of your IP turning with the engine off.

I would also suggest warming the engine up before you do any moving of the IP. Eliminating the glow plug system from the starting equation.
 

Thumper580

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It might not start. But, damage wise at idle. No damage will result. Just do all of your IP turning with the engine off.

I would also suggest warming the engine up before you do any moving of the IP. Eliminating the glow plug system from the starting equation.
Thank you.
 

Thumper580

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Virginia
It might not start. But, damage wise at idle. No damage will result. Just do all of your IP turning with the engine off.

I would also suggest warming the engine up before you do any moving of the IP. Eliminating the glow plug system from the starting equation.
It's definitely retarded. When warm I pushed in the cold advance lever on the side of the IP with a screwdriver and nothing happened. The engine sound got a little quieter, but it didn't drop in rpm, sputter or stall.. I'll move the marks so they are lined up and go from there. Thanks for your input.
 

Thumper580

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I found this neat diesel timing instrument on ebay. Retail was $420.00, but got it for $200.00. Based on the slash marks on my IP housing and the timing belt cover it definitely looked retarded. The screwdriver test in the cold start advance lever indicated it was retarded. Hooked up the DTI tech-time 3300-s to see what it showed. Lowered the idle to about 680rpm (warm). White marked the appropriate timing pieces. Increased the idle to 1300, hit it with the timing light and it's indicating about 5-6 degrees retarded..... Really nice confirmation. Now waiting on my curved wrenches and IP adjustor tool and I'll get this thing where it's supposed to be.
IMG_20221201_160806675_HDR.jpg
 

Barrman

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A universal swivel 15mm 12 point socket and a long extension will let you get to the drivers side IP hold down nut snaking it through the intake runners. The passenger side and top nut can be accessed with a regular box end wrench. I always just use the throttle cable bracket to move the IP.

Glad you confirmed it was actually retarded and have a way to accurately check it now.
 
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